Best rust killer

Vally Farm · Feb 7, 2012

I will be pulling the bed off my truck this spring to get the frame and underside of the box cleaned up. WEhat is the best way to stop rust from comming back? I've used Rustolium befor with mixes results. P.O.R. was sugested by one of my friends, but he hasn't used it. Is there anything out there that can do the job without having to grind the frame all the way to bare metal? Any help would be great. Also, it is a 1996 Nissan Hardbody. Anyone know where to get patch panels, and mabee some stainless brake lines? Only want to do this once. Other than some rot in the bed and some good rust on the frame the body is near 100%. Thganks for any help. Mike

showcrop · Feb 7, 2012

My experience is that if you want paint to last any amount of time you have to get the rust off or neutralized, and in order to neutralize it you need to get pretty much all of it off. I had the disappointment of having rust bubble up under sheet metal paint where there were a few little pits. You need to take the rust down to bare shiny metal with an abrasive wheel. Then acid wash it to get down into pits and places that you weren't able to get at with the wheel.

rustyfarmall · Feb 7, 2012

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I'm sure once you start cleaning away all the visible rust, you will find it is MUCH worse than you realized. Especially if the frame is rusted. Personally, I would leave well enough alone and just get rid of it.

LJD · Feb 7, 2012

I spend (waste) a lot to time fixing rusty vehicles. I live in the salt/rust belt of New York. I too used to use Rustoleum "rusty metal" primer. It's been reformulated over the years and is not near as good as it used to be. I've found Zero Rust to be excellent. I first used it 4 years ago and am impressed by how well it's worked. Great adhesion and fast drying. Not cheap though.
I can't say it's the best on the market, but it's the best I've ever used.

LJD · Feb 7, 2012

You don't want stainless-steel. Most SS alloys cannot be double-flared and using it requires many adapters.

You want brake line material made of cunnifer or monel. It's a copper-steel allow. In Europe, it's been a legal requirement for all new cars since Volvo started using it in the 70s. But in the USA - cheap crap - often electroplate steel is still used.

http://www.fedhillusa.com/

Brokengun · Feb 8, 2012

there are several treatments on the market that should do the job you want.

i recently found a product called Loctite 754 rust treatment that claims to stop old rust and help stop new rust from forming.

You might try to find some and let us know how it works

Dave Warden · Feb 8, 2012

I'm not happy wiyh pitting rust unless sandblast and clean and clean, and I clean with Purple Power cleaner, Great stuff, spray on scrub, with stiff brush, more than once till it's clean and then rub down with Xylol until rag is clean. Then spray on my favorite, Picklex 20.

ARCADIAINC · Feb 11, 2012

My product of choice is named "the right stuff". Normally about two applications will convert all the red rust to black oxide. I just sand, prime and paint. To date no recurrence of rust. This applies to rust with no scaling. All bets are off with scaling rust.

Truck · Feb 19, 2012

Go down south and find a nice rust free chassis and body to start with, oil it down every winter, and you will be miles ahead. I scrapped several Nissan pickups last year, all were solid trucks a couple years back and all folded in half and had the beds collapse to the ground when we loaded them on the rollback. It really isn't worth the effort once they get rotted to save them. They were stored over gravel in upstate NY and rotted unbeleivably fast...

In the same storage yard I had a YJ jeep that stayed there the same amount of time and only had one small floor hole under wet carpet on the floor.

Anonymous-0 · Feb 20, 2012

I spent last summer working on my rusty 96 Ford F150.When I took the box off my son said junk it.I replaced the spring hangers and put 20 feet of 1/8 x 5 steel plate on the chassis.Made a new cross member,Ford wont supply a new one, junk yard wanted 50 bucks for one.Made my own with steel I had on hand.My part is much heavier than the scrawny Ford part.Put on 2 new gas tanks,brake drums, wheel cylinder and brake cables.Cut a rusted piece out of the rear cross member and welded in a new piece.Painted the chassis with zinc oxide primer.Fixed exhaust hangers.Once the chassis was done I went to work on the box.2 cross members were rusted away near the wheels.Cant buy new so I made some from 1/8 steel, again heavier than the thin steel Ford used.Replace 2 rusted away fender braces and fiber glassed som holes.I spent 500 bucks on parts and saved 750 bucks on gas I didnt have to buy while the truck was idle.Truck runs smoother and I didnt have to buy another truck.My sons GMC 2006 truck had a complete engine failure at 135,000.My rusty Ford is running fine at 195,000.

Mark Piper · Feb 26, 2012

Purple Power De-ruster product is the best I have
ever used. I have not put any thing in it that did
not come out perfect after an over night soaking.

Anonymous-0 · Mar 3, 2012

A product called Quick Dry Anti-Oxidene Coating
can be used. comes in 6 gal containers at $102.30
plus $25.00 handling fee plus taxs. Requirement of surface to be brushed some what free of rust. Please e-mail me if you to order the product.
Because of solvents in product can not be sold in Ca, Me, Ny, or Ri.

Best rust killer

Vally Farm

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showcrop

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rustyfarmall

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LJD

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LJD

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Brokengun

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Dave Warden

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ARCADIAINC

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Truck

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Anonymous-0

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Mark Piper

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Anonymous-0

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