8N 12v Conversion Rewire

Hello, picked up a 49 8N that I'm working on to get in good running order, it has a 12v conversion on it but it's not setup right, i bought a new battery, Ignition switch, plugs, wires, coil, condenser, dist cap and rotor button, points are set at .015, oil pressure is 45 at idle. the insulation on the wires is cracking, the connections are rusted, so I'm redoing the whole wiring harness, removing the Amp gauge and replacing with a volt gauge, I'm doing away with the push button start and using the Ignition switch to start and stop it. Can one of you experienced tractor guru's check my wiring diagram and see if you see anything wrong, i think i got it right but want to make sure. Thanks.

Oh, and where is a good source for a 3 ohm resistor that has terminal block type connections? I'm guessing a 3 ohm will do it since my coil is .9 and the switch is .4 which gives me a total of 4.3 ohms resistance. divided by 14.5 volts would be 3.37 amps to the coil, should i add a little more on the resistor size to lower the amps to the coil or is 3.37 okay? Thanks again.

MyConversion-1.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 02:32:46 09/10/11) Hello, picked up a 49 8N that I'm working on to get in good running order, it has a 12v conversion on it but it's not setup right, i bought a new battery, Ignition switch, plugs, wires, coil, condenser, dist cap and rotor button, points are set at .015, oil pressure is 45 at idle. the insulation on the wires is cracking, the connections are rusted, so I'm redoing the whole wiring harness, removing the Amp gauge and replacing with a volt gauge, I'm doing away with the push button start and using the Ignition switch to start and stop it. Can one of you experienced tractor guru's check my wiring diagram and see if you see anything wrong, i think i got it right but want to make sure. Thanks.

Oh, and where is a good source for a 3 ohm resistor that has terminal block type connections? I'm guessing a 3 ohm will do it since my coil is .9 and the switch is .4 which gives me a total of 4.3 ohms resistance. divided by 14.5 volts would be 3.37 amps to the coil, should i add a little more on the resistor size to lower the amps to the coil or is 3.37 okay? Thanks again.

MyConversion.jpg
teve T just asked exact questions on the other board....funny, ...so I'll give you same answers that I gave him.

Safety/neutral start switch was there for a reason (your safety & others around the tractor), but it is your life & tractor.

You will need a different solenoid as OEM is activated by application of ground to small terminal & receives its relay-coil power by internal connection to large post connected to battery. You will need one that has either isolated coil or internally grounded coil & received power via small terminal

No larger than 3..... already on high side.
 
Move the + side of volt meter to IGN post on switch. If you leave it connected to the battery it will be on at all times the battery is connected.

If according to your note you use the ACC post for lights, the lights will be on whenever the ignition is on. (see your run connections on switch)
 
Good eye on the volt meter, i updated the diagram.

I just checked and i do have a + activated solenoid, I jumped a wire from the + battery terminal to the small wire on the solenoid and the starter turned over. so i should be okay on the way i drew the diagram up on that part. I appreciate all the concerns on the neutral safety switch but I don't want to use the foot switch.

JMOR, you say no larger than 3, i assume your referring to the resistor, may i ask why you say that? the coil is a 6 volt coil. The conversion that is on the tractor right now has a 1.7 ohm cold resistor but the porcelain is busted exposing the coiled resistor wire so i want to replace it.

see anything else with the diagram? when i add lights later on I'll run it off the ACC side of the switch and will use another switch for the lights so they wont be on when the tractor is running.

I have a crude drawing on paper of the way the tractor is wired right now, i will try to redo it and post it later today.
 

"I appreciate all the concerns on the neutral safety switch but I don't want to use the foot switch."

FOOT SWITCH on an 8N????
I've put a LOT of hours on 8N's and NEVER had to operate that button with my foot!

Those tractors were WAY ahead of there time in having a neutral-start safety switch. DISABLING it is quite foolhardy!

Here's a way to use a solenoid like JMOR said, the ignition switch has to be "ON" for the button to operate the solenoid....

<img src = "http://www.gondtc.com/~blweltin/Bob/8N4-wire%20solenoid.jpg">
 
(quoted from post at 08:55:21 09/10/11)
"I appreciate all the concerns on the neutral safety switch but I don't want to use the foot switch."

FOOT SWITCH on an 8N????
I've put a LOT of hours on 8N's and NEVER had to operate that button with my foot!

Those tractors were WAY ahead of there time in having a neutral-start safety switch. DISABLING it is quite foolhardy!

Here's a way to use a solenoid like JMOR said, the ignition switch has to be "ON" for the button to operate the solenoid....

&lt;img src = "http://www.gondtc.com/~blweltin/Bob/8N4-wire%20solenoid.jpg"&gt;

Forgive my ignorance, this is the first tractor I've ever owned, it was given to me. so you're saying the foot switch needs to be wired but it doesn't have to be pushed down to start the tractor? Using my drawing above how would i add this to my diagram? and where could i buy one of these 4 post solenoids that will mount on the starter like it is now?
 

Here is a diagram how the tractor is currently wired. It works but I'm going to redo it because of bad wiring and rusty connections.

CURRENT8NWIRING.jpg


Does this wiring setup seem right to you? yes i know the neutral safety switch is not hooked up. just wondering if the way it is setup now would cause premature component failure.
 

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