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1949 Ford 8N - No Spark

J

jsw2

New User
I have a 1949 Ford 8N (front mount distributor). It ran properly two years ago and has not been used since. Two months ago, I tried to start this tractor, but it would not start. I was told that the battery needed to be replaced, so I did that a month ago. The electrical system is still 6V positive ground. Though the engine turns over when I engage the ignition, the tractor will not start.

I have followed the problem from the battery through the starter and past the generator and coil to the distributor. I have voltage getting to the distributor, but I do not have a spark at the plugs. Thus far, I have replaced the battery, coil, distributor cap, rotor button, condensor, spark plug wires, and spark plugs.

What is the next step? Links to photos showing the parts/area to test would help. Thanks!
 
Throwing parts at a problem is not the way to do thing. From the get go I would bet you need to replace the points since it sat that long they have corroded past the point that they will do there job. Oh by the way the points are set at 0.015
 
I opened the distributor today to check the points. It looked clean to me, but I went ahead and replaced it anyway. Still no spark though. I know the rotor is spinning and I have a good ground. What else could it be? Thanks.
 
Well, it sounds like you better start at the battery with a probe, or a multimeter, and work your way all the way down to the points. Start at the battery and see where you lose the juice at.
 
With the points open and your ignition switch on you should have voltage at both small terminals on the coil. If you don't, check back your at ignition switch to see if there's voltage on the terminal that feeds your coil. If there's voltage there and none at the coil your wire needs replacing. If there's no voltage feeding your switch you need to trace the wire back to where its getting the voltage.

Run a separate wire from your battery to your coil and then see if the engine will start. Hal
 
Not sure if your 8N is similar to my NAA at the distributor,..but if it is,.. there is a metal stud at the base of the distributor where the wire from the + side of the coil attaches. Inside the distributor at this stud is an insulator and a copper strip that connects to the points. That copper metal strip may be cracked or the insulator may be cracked thus causing a short and no spark to the points. Just a guess,but it is worth a look.
 
(quoted from post at 17:51:36 09/16/10) I opened the distributor today to check the points. It looked clean to me, but I went ahead and replaced it anyway. Still no spark though. I know the rotor is spinning and I have a good ground. What else could it be? Thanks.
Click to expand...
I hope you have an analog (needle pointer) voltmeter and/or a test light......it will be much easier than trying to do this with a digital meter.
Find the resistor/terminal block (see picture) and connect test light or analog meter to the upper left terminal (you are facing terminal block/looking toward rear of tractor)...other lead to chassis ground. Turn on key and bump starter while watching meter or light. As points open voltage should go up to battery voltage/light bright AND as points close voltage should go to about one-half of battery voltage/light dim or dark. Tell me what you find & we will go from there. Don't leave the key ON when done with measurements!!!
loop_amp_with_res.jpg
 
We had a 9N with the same problem. We did everything you did and it still would not start. Then we replaced the ground cable with a braided cable that can be purchased at your local New Holland dealer. The tractor started right up after we did that. Hope this helps
 
Now that you have spent all that money on new parts try this.Watch your ammeter while cranking the engine with the ignition on.The needle should move from 0 to 5 amps and back to zero as the engine turns.If you dont see this your points are dirty.Clean them with a pocket knife.Many front mount problems are caused by wanna be mechamics making a short circuit with the condensor leads.If you have a short circuit the ammeter will read 5 amps discharge and not move to zero.
 
Those points will Fool You....I'm Working on a 72 ford truck I cleaned ,Cleaned the pionts... But You have to use a test light to make SURE they are passing Current across them, File them "lightly"!! Larry KF4LKU
 
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