Buffing/Clearing IH 2150 or John Deere Green

I have sprayed a little 2150/JDG but I prefer using Nason Urethane SS when I do a restoration because it looks better and seems to be more durable. The restoration I'm doing on a Farmall now got too expensive for the guy and he decided to go with the factory enamel. ($220 VS $1250 for 2 gallons) With the price of paint getting even more expensive I was looking for tips and tricks to help the enamels have a better shine and depth of image. I use a wet look hardner and nason reducer mixed 8:1:2 and usually shoot over a sealer or thinned epoxy. I typically apply 3 coats of color with flash in between and the final two coats wetter than the first. The problem I usually get with the enamels is the die back the next day where it tends to loose a bit of its shine. I know theres only so much the cheaper paint can accomplish but does anyone have any tips?

I was thinking about buffing it but im not sure on how long to wait before wet sanding. I usually let let urethane sit for about 3 days in the sun then sand, and allow another day in the sun before buffing to let the film release solvents and harden. Then Ill buff and apply the decals.

I was also toying with the idea of spraying the enamel in 3 medium coats for color then clearing but I don't know of any clear that wont cause it to have a reaction.

Tractor on the right is 2150 and the left is Nason mixed to IH 50.

I think your biggest problem buffing a tractor is some places like the sheetmetal you could buff but other places you couldn't. You would have the paint shinier on some places than others.

There wouldn't be a problem sanding the paint after 24 hours drying time but buffing would be a different story. Paint generally doesn't achieve it's full hardness for a month. Buffing generates heat and if you buffed it before it's good and hard the paint could get soft from the heat and tear out in chunks.

In the end I think if you want that level of gloss you need to spend the money on clearcoat.