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Rustoleum woes

W

William Fissell

Member
Hi, all,

There was a nice post a few years back from a man who painted his 35 w rustoleum. I planned to do the same.

repeainting a MF35 on the cheap-ish after rebuild. Rebuilt the Z134 engine, had it hot tanked and magnafluxed at an engine shop, reassembled it, scrubbed it w Dawn dish soap then rinsed dried wiped down with naphtha finally painted w phos-x. Sprsyed rustoleum rusty metal primer on the block using compresseed air spray gun. Project got left aside inside for a year in conditioned space. Primer is peeling off block, worse on manifold side. Engine has not been started or heated up. Has not been out in the weather.

Any suggestions? Im assuming residual oil in the block interfered with adhesion and I have to scrape anything loose and rewash w naphtha, but I thought I would ask the experts. The peeling starts as a star-shaped crack in the paint and the the peaint curls back from there.

thank you in advance.

Bill
 
It doesn't take much of a trace of oil to make paint peal. I think the primer just didn't bond well. You might soak it down with oven cleaner and power wash it. Between the oven cleaner and the washer it should remove any primer which is loose. Towel dry it and allow the water to dry out of it for a couple days before using primer again. Dawn dish soap is water soluble. If any of it was left on the surface naphtha wouldn't remove it.
 
When you remove all of the current primer, use non-chlorinated brake cleaner on the metal to clean it. Rustoleum makes a self etching primer in a spray can that will provide much better adhesion to the metal. When it dries top coat with standard primer. Paint should not be applied directly to self etching primer.
 
Rather than using Dawn in the future you might use Purple Power. It rinses off easier. Just don't buy it at Walmart, theirs are watered down quite a bit. Same container, different product.
 


Your problem is the Dawn. Were you not aware that Dawn is formulated to be gentle to your wife's skin? You need a heavy duty cleaner to clean the years of grease and oil from old tractors, Being gentle is not gong to cut it. The accepted standard here is cheap oven cleaner from the Dollar store. If you want super effective find a degreaser that is based on Potassium hydroxide and fortified with D'limonene which is a powerful solvent. If you want you can add some purple food coloring so that you can call it Purple power. You are fortunate that you didn't get past priming.
 
Dumb question:
Is TSP ( trisodium phosphate ) a good grease cleaner for tractors, or is it just for walls and buildings?
 
It can be used for a degreaser for tractors and to clean woodwork in preparation to painting. Personally I would rather use Purple Power.
 
(quoted from post at 10:23:43 03/24/23) Dumb question:
Is TSP ( trisodium phosphate ) a good grease cleaner for tractors, or is it just for walls and buildings?
Click to expand...


TSP was used for many years to clean tractors before someone tried it on their house since they had it on hand. You can add food coloring to it if you want a hot color.
 
If phos-x is is an acid based treatment, that may be the issue. A block that has been hot tanked should be oil-free. But some acid metal treatments are not compatible with some paints unless rinsed well with water before painting. Especially true if there is any white looking residue
 
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