Not Painting Something As Simple As An Oliver 77

I have decided to take the plunge and repaint my Farmall 826.
I m planning on taking all the sheet metal over to a local body shop to spray paint. I will paint all the cast iron and heavy steel with a brush. A couple of questions:

What do you guys do for areas that are just too hard to completely take every piece apart and clean, sand and paint individually? The best you can?








What do you use to "sand" each paint layer before applying the next one in all these uneven places with all kinds of nooks and crannies? Steel wool?

Does it make sense to try to use hardener on these areas where it will be brushed? Would you need a supplied air respirator like you would for spraying?

your primary rust/loose paint tool is a cup type twisted wire wheel. getting into some tight "in behind" areas can be done with emery cloth in a roll. If you really want to avoid removing the rods and bell cranks you have to just settle for a poor looking finished job. You need to prime over the old paint. If you don't the solvent in the new paint will cause the old red to curl and lift. Using a brush to get in and around and behind all those tubes and rods is extremely difficult, but if you are looking for a challenge go ahead. You don't mention paint. if you are going to spend under five hours use cheap paint. If you are going for a good job don't use paint that will dull and fade in two years.


i did this one ten years ago:





Here is one that the local FAA chapter did for my friend. They used alkyd enamel implement paint. It has held up well under the decals.

IH 2150 IronGuard

This post was edited by JohnRowehl on 01/06/2023 at 03:55 pm.

It's A little pricey but I use a spray cans to get in
the hard places. If you take your time you can do a
really nice job with a paint brush and a
roller(small). IH 2150 comes in spray,quarts and
gallons. For brush and roller do not thin,use it as it
comes out of the can,the thicker the better.

The best thing you could do for yourself is do an overkill cleaning the oil off the tractor. You may have spots that seem completely free
of oil which have a slight trace and that would be enough to prevent the paint from adhering. Some of the spots you know were caked up
with grease you might use oven cleaner. Most of it you could go over it several times with purple power and a power washer. Then finally
use a rag and some wax and grease remover and go over it again as much as you can get to.

As far as sanding to etch the surface for new paint to bond I sometimes lightly sandblast. Just hit it hard enough to roughen the surface
but not enough to remove the paint. Of course you have to be careful not to get sand into places it shouldn't There is too many places
you just can't get your fingers into to sand or use steel wool. Places where there is bare metal showing try to remove as much rust as
you can and prime those spots. Primer isn't needed to recoat the painted areas.

If you are brushing the finish you would not need an air supplied respirator. That would be needed if you were spraying the paint. Then
too, that would depend on the paint. The hardener that places like Tractor Supply sells to put in oil based paint isn't near as strong as
the hardener they put in urethane. A standard chemical respirator would be sufficient to use with oil based paint where the hardener in
urethane would go right through a standard respirator.

The hardener that The CaseIH dealer sold me to go with the IronGuard is a Valspar product that has isocyanate.
Looking at the lineup of cartridges available for organic vapors as shown below, are any adequate for this isocyanate ingredient in this scenario of brush application?

Greetings John. This one is tricky. Most of the time we
recommend Supplied Air for isocyanates because of the short
cartridge life/efficiency. However, an Organic Vapor/HE can work
for some isocyanates but it will have a very short life. 6001 is
the OV part number. (Vapor protection only) 6001 with 5N11 or
5P71 filter with 501 retainer if spraying.

I might suggest a quick conversation with 3M Technical Support
at (800)362-3550

AJ

I looked up the MSDS report on that hardener and the company advises just a chemical respirator even for spraying it. It appears to be as
mild as the hardener made for an alkyd enamel. If you have adequate ventilation you could get away with brushing the paint without a
respirator but it wouldn't hurt if you didn't mind it.

I did this with a CASE SC and DC. Took everything off/ apart. Used degreaser and Dawn dish soap.
Scrub scrub. I made a tumbler using 5 gal bucket. Google parts tumblers. You will see. Pour in
some degreaser, gurgle of soap, and some abrasive, that is, couple handfuls of drywall screws,
handful of old quarter inch square nuts, and anything else. However, tumble it slow, so that parts
roll and tumble, not lift and drop off baffle . Take out, wash off. Mean Green Degreaser is
biodegradable and washes off. This all worked good. Put small parts, such as nuts, on a wire, more
easily retrieved that way. Tumble slow.

You see, some guys make tumblers to polish up brass gun cartridges for reloading. Others for rock
polishing, others for this purpose.

Can use an old cement mixer. Run slow. I did for

big stuff. I redid a jd two corn planter. Every sprocket, chain, this or that, got tumbled. No damage.
Comes out clean.
I did the fender and hood also. Use wire brush on an angle grinder, flap sander, etc. then prime and spray paint Take it slow, might take all day, or two. Spray, lightly, so dont run paint. Let dry, you go do something else!! Then do again, and again,.
Ongoin shop project. Took me 6 month on the corn planter. On it I replaced every nut and bolt with new. Sets it off and looks good. Clear coat those so they dont tarnish. Congoleum 7701 is formulated to go over other paint and not react, that is, alligator skin!, I called manufacturer and they recommended that. Works good.

You have to keep track of all the parts.tags, notes I had boxes, bowls, muffin tins!,
Tumble like units together. Twist a wire loosely around some similar parts.
For example all those lug things that hold a rim to a wheel, got tumbled. Sure does beat a wire brush!!!
( I had made a rock tumbler for my kids when they had to do a rock collection for earth science class. This is what gave me the idea. I just made it larger. At the time i rolled a gallon plastic paint can with vinyl siding J channel bolted to inside as baffles, made some rollers salvaged from a photocopy machine, and even used the motor, and chain drive.. )

Oh, Google homemade or shop made parts tumblers. It will lead you to ideas.
Homemade. It wont use quotation marks!