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Removing old paint and rust? Is Rust-oluem paint good?

L

Lylat1an

Member
I've been removing dirt, grease, and oil from my inherited 1940 John Deere H, revealing rust and flaking paint underneath.

What's a good way to expose the metal for repainting? I have sanding wheels and wire brush heads for a hand-held rotary tool, but I don't have a sander.

I found that Rust-Oleum makes "J.D. Green" and "J.D. Yellow" in brush paint and rattle-cans, is that good for deterring future rust or should I try a different brand?
 
I have nit bought Rust Oleum in implement buy use probably close to a thousand cans of the spray paint when I was rebuilding machinery for the Amish. Now we were wanting some of the 2X rust oleun that is good for use on plastic. Finding out it is about unavaible. The companys only are bringing it to the store when they feel like it and the shelves are mostly empty. Did not ysed to have that problem. Menards used to have full shelves but not now, finaly at 2 different stores got 4 cans but could not get any more so found enough at 2 different TSC in a slihjtly different collor to do the job. So if you want to go that way be prepaired to go to every store within a hundred miles to get enough to do your job. Think the pandemic is their problem. Hunter green is very close to New Idea or Case green. The orange was good enough for the Amish for the New Idea bittersweet. Apple red good for IH.
 


Years ago I found that what worked best for me is a cup style knotted heavy wire wheel. I also have a straight one for getting into tight places.
 
Wire brush, either cup or end brush for tight places or best for cast areas is a needle scaler, leaves the rough look of cast. Sand only smooth metal. The
Rustoleum will work fine in spray if you use red oxide primer first.
 
(quoted from post at 17:47:36 08/07/21) The Rustoleum will work fine in spray if you use red oxide primer first.
Click to expand...

I see that primer also comes in Gray, does that yield a different result than Red Oxide?

The instructions also mention using Clean Metal Primer, can it be substituted for the above primers or is it designed to work with them?
 
I tried the Rustoleum JD point once. The spray cans didn't spray
after the cans were half empty. I thought the green color was
too dark.

If I was going to paint an entire tractor. I would get true JD
paint. As far as primers. Red Oxford is more for rusty metal.
The grey is a good all purpose primer. The clean metal primer is
more for brand new metal. I have used the Rustoleum automotive
primers. They make a lot of dust that gets on everything. I
would use red oxide or a self ecting primer.

My dad had a JD H back in the 60s. He gave $50 for it at the JD
dealer he worked for. I wish he still had it.
 
(quoted from post at 13:58:03 08/07/21) I've been removing dirt, grease, and oil from my inherited 1940 John Deere H, revealing rust and flaking paint underneath.

What's a good way to expose the metal for repainting? I have sanding wheels and wire brush heads for a hand-held rotary tool, but I don't have a sander.

I found that Rust-Oleum makes "J.D. Green" and "J.D. Yellow" in brush paint and rattle-cans, is that good for deterring future rust or should I try a different brand?
Click to expand...


I just noticed that you asked about deterring rust. Understand that after you have removed all the rust by whatever method you choose, there is really still a lot of rust there. A friend who is a pro auto-body guy once cleaned prepped and painted the panels to a tractor for me. Two years later there was rust bubbling up under the paint. Prep on rusty old tractors is different from late model cars. You have to use one of the many phosphoric acid based rust converters if you want to deter future rust. Wait until you have it ready to paint before you decide what pain to use. It makes little sense to spend a lot of time prepping and then put cheap five year paint on it. If you end up putting a lot of time into it you should get real paint.
 
Really to kill the rust you need to sandblast it down to bare metal. Then treat it with phosphoric acid. Then prime it with an epoxy primer. The epoxy primer would then need to be painted within a certain amount of time, usually 8 hours with something. If it was
sheetmetal where you needed some sanding and leveling it could then be primed with a filler primer. The epoxy primer doesn't sand well. If you needed to do some body work bondo over the epoxy primer and after you sand it flat use a another coat of epoxy primer.

Rustoleum makes a Farm and Implement enamel that is very good paint. I think the only way you could do better is to use automotive paint. I painted a Kubota tractor with the Rustoleum paint in 2009 and it still looks great.
 
I used John Deere paint on my 4020 18 years ago its lucky if
it gets washed once every other year its been polished once
in 18 years .
cvphoto97093.jpg


cvphoto97094.jpg
 
Rust-Oleum paint, interesting topic. The last 10 yrs has seen mergers and acquisitions in the paint industry
both architectural and industrial. I am using a DTM Rust-Oleum that was probably a PPG product. Rust-Oleum
went on a buying spree. It was the only paint I avoided however with the acquisitions you never know what
your going to get. I bought a gallon with the name Rust-Oleum on it. Label which also says industrial
coating. Very good product. I have found with all the mergers that product support has been removed so no
idea of reducer/hardener or ratios to use. Lot's of experimentation and I finally got it working. Took me all
summer but the effort paid off.
 
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