Paint Procedures

intlboy@hotmail.com · Jul 13, 2020

I’m looking for a lot of help. I have an old sickle mower that is torn down and sandblasted. I’m trying to step up from rattle cans. I have recently
purchased an HVLP paint gun kit with a few different sizes. I’m looking for all info on procedures to paint. Do I need to do anything to prep after
sandblasting? Is there anything I need to do to the paint before pouring it into the gun (thinner, hardener?)? How many primer coats? How long does it
need to dry before I can do a finish coat? How many finish coats do I need to do? Do I need a clear coat at all? Any and all words of wisdom are
appreciated!

Riggs rigs · Jul 14, 2020

I would suggest that after you sandblast, blow all the loose sand and dust off. Try to have a clean area to paint. My opinion is, don’t spend to much on paint. Example- I just spent $500 on paints,primers,thinners etc. and my neighbor spent $75 on Tremclad didn’t need any primers or thinners and his job looked every bit as good as mine. Damn it. You should get a tacky cloth for wiping unseen dust, only rub lightly with the tac cloth so as not to transfer the tac. Also some thinner to wipe any oil or grease before paint. Use whatever is recommended for thinning or cleanup to wipe. Ether way you go, get a paint strainer and dump the paint through the strainer into the gun. Only thin it if it’s recommended, only prime it if recommended. Strain all paint going into your gun. If you’re priming I’d do at least two coats, even three or more won’t hurt anything as long as you let the paint dry between coats (usually 40-60 min) u can sand between coats if you’re going for show room. keep yor air regulated and stay far enough away to avoid runs and sagging. Take your time and don’t load up the paint to much on each coat and you should be styling.

showcrop · Jul 14, 2020

Depends on how long you want it to look good. First, I suggest looking very closely at the surface. If it is all light gray metal, fine. If there are black specs or patches here and there, that is probably rust, and it can be impossible to get it up out of the pits. This calls for killing the rust with a phosphoric acid based rust converter. If you paint over rust eventually it will bubble up and lift the paint. Second, there may be some good direct to metal top coats out there but the liklihood that it will both bond to the metal and give you a long lasting weatherproof finish is not likely. You can get alkyd enamel paint for a lot less money than 2K enamel, but if your color is bright it is likely to fade.

Stephen Newell · Jul 14, 2020

A lot depends on the condition before it was sandblasted. If there was rust be sure to treat it with phosphoric acid. If there was places where the finish was thin or gone and was greasy there would be oil in the metal that sandblasting wouldn't remove. It would need to be washed with acetone or lacquer thinner frequently changing rags. The best thing you could do for it would be to prime it with epoxy primer. If you are going to use an oil based paint you could use the oil based primer over the epoxy primer. Sherwin Williams makes a good paint for implements called Sher-Kem enamel.

intlboy@hotmail.com · Jul 15, 2020

So based on the picture is sounds like I should try to find and use some phosphoric acid? That'll be a new experience. I like the idea of the Tremclad but clearly I need to do some more research on how to find it and get the correct colors. I'm not looking for showroom so sounds like sanding is out. If I do go the other route and do primer, sounds like 2-3 coats of primer, but then how many top coats do I do and would I need any clear coat? Clearly I also haven't done enough research on paints either when it comes to epoxy vs. oil based. Thanks all for your wisdom, now if you could just stand over my shoulder and tell me what i'm doing wrong.

showcrop · Jul 15, 2020

(quoted from post at 07:48:15 07/15/20) So based on the picture is sounds like I should try to find and use some phosphoric acid? That'll be a new experience. I like the idea of the Tremclad but clearly I need to do some more research on how to find it and get the correct colors. I'm not looking for showroom so sounds like sanding is out. If I do go the other route and do primer, sounds like 2-3 coats of primer, but then how many top coats do I do and would I need any clear coat? Clearly I also haven't done enough research on paints either when it comes to epoxy vs. oil based. Thanks all for your wisdom, now if you could just stand over my shoulder and tell me what i'm doing wrong.
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto50493.jpg">

That piece in your picture needs a lot more sandblasting before the acid treatment. (looking over your shoulder)

TJ in KY · Jul 17, 2020

Here is a link to a post I made several years ago. Pay no attention to the first 2 pictures and the last 2 pictures. They are not what I had originally posted, I don't know how they got there to take the place of my original pictures.
Painting a tractor

Randy-IA · Sep 2, 2020

(reply to post at 19:52:21 07/13/20)

Use as many local resources as possible for information. Where you buy the paint is one, if they don't know how it's applied buy it elsewhere. Napa used to be a good source for paint information but who knows these days?

Body shops might be able to give some good advice...however, the difference between good advice and BS is up to you to verify. They often aren't good painters themselves. Get 'er done, as it were. Move the vehicles through like pigs to slaughter and worry about the results later.

Tractor dealers will often have good painters working there. Worth asking.

Not saying the folks here aren't excellent at what they do, but the info is slow to come sometimes. Up to you, looking over your shoulder is easier when actually standing behind you....

intlboy@hotmail.com · Sep 27, 2020

I'm working through surface prep still based on feedback I've received. I did a lot of grinding on every surface and got down to a lot more bare metal. I've started with the phosphoric acid and after watching a few videos they all show you how to get it started and make it look so simple. However, they don't show how far to go with it. So I have been putting it on with a toothbrush to try and work it in/rust out. That seems to be working well, even on the relatively large areas. After a few minutes I try to wipe off the dirty extra acid on the surface with a wet rag (is the wet rag enough, do I need soap, do I take a hose to it?). After it dries it has a white crystal/powder on the surface. How long do I need to work to get that off? I let it dry 2-3 times to the white powder but I can never seem to get back to bare metal? How good do I need to get that wiped off? Are the pics attached wiped off enough? On the top is after the acid wash and 4 wipe downs. On the bottom is after grinding? Which can I paint? Thanks for any help!

showcrop · Sep 28, 2020

(quoted from post at 20:01:46 09/27/20) I'm working through surface prep still based on feedback I've received. I did a lot of grinding on every surface and got down to a lot more bare metal. I've started with the phosphoric acid and after watching a few videos they all show you how to get it started and make it look so simple. However, they don't show how far to go with it. So I have been putting it on with a toothbrush to try and work it in/rust out. That seems to be working well, even on the relatively large areas. After a few minutes I try to wipe off the dirty extra acid on the surface with a wet rag (is the wet rag enough, do I need soap, do I take a hose to it?). After it dries it has a white crystal/powder on the surface. How long do I need to work to get that off? I let it dry 2-3 times to the white powder but I can never seem to get back to bare metal? How good do I need to get that wiped off? Are the pics attached wiped off enough? On the top is after the acid wash and 4 wipe downs. On the bottom is after grinding? Which can I paint? Thanks for any help!
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto57481.jpg">

I consider wiping to be moving not removing. I put small pieces in a bucket and brush them in the after after a few minutes. Larger pieces I spray off with my pressure washer. There will still be some white left after this but not enough to inhibit the adhering of your primer. The SEM Rustmort that I use recommends brushing a few times over the course of 15 minutes contact time just as you described that you did.

Paint Procedures

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