Rattle cans

I am the worst painter ever but I do have a question. If I do as the instructions say, use several light coats, the finish dries to a somewhat dull look. If I spray heavy coats I get a the nice shiny finish like I want but takes forever to dry and runs or sags are always a problem. Sorry to ask a dumb question I just never get the finish I want on my parts.
Dave
 

There is a very fine line between a wet, shiny coat, and runs or sags. Practice, practice, practice. Also, don't let the previous coat get completely dry before applying the next coat.
 
It's easy to get light, dry coats by holding the can further away. Don't! That causes the dry, dull finish.

Try holding the can closer but moving it faster. And, brand of paint makes a huge difference. Some have truly terrible nozzles and spray patterns. look for one that sprays a fan, not a cone shape.
 
It’ll go on as shiny and nice as you want it just costs more money but if you dont have anywhere to paint and no compressor they work well .
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Rattle can paint is a fast drying paint. If they don't adjust the formula of the paint with retarder thinners you would never be able to get a uniform coat. It would be streaked with dull spots. The retarder thinner slows the drying time down a little so if you flood too much paint on it would take a long time to dry and be more prone to runs. There is a spot there between too little paint and too much paint you have to learn to achieve. It's the same even if you used a spray gun. You have to learn to apply paint just to the point where any more and it would run.

Another purpose for retarder thinner in paint is humidity. The solvent allows you to paint when the weather is a little more damp than you should be working. With fast drying paint it can trap moisture form the air in the paint you spray and make it milky looking.

You might consider getting a paint sprayer. The cost of the paint would be cheaper and you would have more control of the formula. With a sprayer you could apply more paint at a time so you could hold the gun further from the work. This would help reduce the runs.
 
Good advice and I want to add that light is a big help. If you can see light reflecting where your paint is hitting it will help you see how wet your putting it
on. After initial tack coat, your subsequent coats should produce an increase in shine.
 
What Stephen said about buying a sprayer and Tgrasher said about light coming over you shoulder are important. I reccomend HVLP sprayer. A $300 rig will do good work,last for years(if kept clean),save money and doesn't get overspray on suroundings,easy to use.
 

You need to apply several light coats till every nook and cranny if painted. let it get tacky and then apply your last coat slowly buy heavy enough till the surface will reflect the light.
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break the paint plan into smaller units if you can. you can probably paint just a fender or a wheel effecively wih a spray bomb, but not a large area.
 


Can painting is much tougher than with an air sprayer, but it can be done with a lot of lighting so that the reflection of light from the surface can e seen.
 

If you have already completed a project, You can lightly wet sand with 2000 or 3000 grit, then follow with moderate buffing with a polishing compound. Then final finish with nuffing with a glazing compound. The difference will amaze you.
 

If you have already completed a project, You can lightly wet sand with 2000 or 3000 grit, then follow with moderate buffing with a polishing compound. Then final finish with nuffing with a glazing compound. The difference will amaze you.
 
Had to do minor front end repair after a small collision. Rustoleum rattle can automotive silver grey on fender and Rustoleum appliance black on lower fork legs.
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Looks great. Rattle can technology has made a giant leap forward with the 2K clear coat available in rattle cans. A bit pricey, but produces very good results that are ideal for small repairs.

I used to paint a whole quarter panel to fix a small patch, just to get things to blend and look right. Now rattle cans, new glazing compounds and variable speed buffers and produce fine results on spot repairs.
 
(quoted from post at 21:29:46 10/31/20)
Looks great. Rattle can technology has made a giant leap forward with the 2K clear coat available in rattle cans. A bit pricey, but produces very good results that are ideal for small repairs.

I used to paint a whole quarter panel to fix a small patch, just to get things to blend and look right. Now rattle cans, new glazing compounds and variable speed buffers and produce fine results on spot repairs.

rew1953, what aerosol clear coat product enables one to make a spot repair that can then be buffed without leaving ragged edges?
 
(quoted from post at 08:36:02 11/01/20)
(quoted from post at 21:29:46 10/31/20)
Looks great. Rattle can technology has made a giant leap forward with the 2K clear coat available in rattle cans. A bit pricey, but produces very good results that are ideal for small repairs.

I used to paint a whole quarter panel to fix a small patch, just to get things to blend and look right. Now rattle cans, new glazing compounds and variable speed buffers and produce fine results on spot repairs.

rew1953, what aerosol clear coat product enables one to make a spot repair that can then be buffed without leaving ragged edges?

Eastman, World of Color, and a few others make a 2K rattle can Clear Coat. The can contains a plunger that you push in to mix the clear coat and hardner. Only activate the can when you are ready to use. I think the can I saw had a working life of 40 minutes. So, you only get to use part of the spray can. If you want multiple coats, you have to use multiple cans. Yes, you can make a spot repair and buff in smooth edges. This way ain't cheap.

You can do the same with regular paint guns at a much cheaper cost as you control the amount of clear coat you mix for a repair and also the amount of reducer for blending. You typically start with a 10-15% reduction for the clear coat and work up to a 90% reduction for the final blending. You cannot use this control with rattle cans. They come with a fixed reduction out of your control and don't work as well (shiney) as the sprayed finish. This procedure is described in detail and done on project cars at LearnAutoBodyAndPaint.com. These is a valuable resource for refinishing work. It even shows how to buff an old windshield or lights without the expensive kits at the auto parts stores. It cost me about a dollar to refinish plastic light housings, Don't forget to do the rears also.

I buffed out the 1986 Ford F-150 windshield and it turned out looking like a new one. It removes all the surface scratches and pits. It is a real PIA due to the position and area, but ir sure beats the cost of replacement. Costs about $4 to do the entire windshield.
 
Painting with rattle can on farm equipment is technically very tuff even with spray gun. So practice this light fine coats till you get the results you want. Note might take a couple of weeks depending on surfaces texture and geometric shape. Dont get in a hurry and dont get discouraged. As sherwin Williams says preparation is 90 percent of the job,they are right
 

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