Glue for mudflaps

fastfarmall

Well-known Member
Any body got any experience with glueing two pieced of plastic together, these were new mudflap out of the box, so they were clean,i used seal-All,but didn't do a thing,i bet i am going to have to Rivet them together, that glue didn't do much,but works good on my bedroom slippers,LOL!!!!
 
Are you familiar with the sealant "Lexel"? Their brochure says;It sticks to
[b:84ace58c7e]Metals[/b:84ace58c7e]
Aluminum Brass Steel Copper Silver
[b:84ace58c7e]Plastics[/b:84ace58c7e]
ABS Vinyl Nylon Fiberglass PVC
Acrylic Sheet Lexan* Plexiglass Polycarbonate
[b:84ace58c7e]Other Surfaces[/b:84ace58c7e]
Asphalt Stone Ceramics Concrete Drywall
Formica* Glass Stucco Porcelain Thinset
Wood EIFS Alkyd Stain Corian Brick
Cloth/Canvas Cement Mortar Fiber Cement

Will not adhere to or is incompatible with Aquaseal*,
Kynar*, Teflon*, polypropylene, polyethylene, silicone,
and waxes

They forgot to say it sticks to fingers really well.
 
Spacecade9, wow, you just made my morning, no never heard of it, it rained a little during the nite,so i will get right on that project! Do you deliver? svcummins your answer has merit also! thanks both.
 
Lots of things will glue plastic and rubber in certain situations, or temporarily. But honestly, I don't think there's anything that will hold two separate pieces of a hanging mud flap together long term other than rivets. I've worked with plastic for over 20 years, and despite claims, very few products actually bond plastic, especially HDPE. The type of plastic however does make a difference.
 
The problem is now, the one flap that i tried to glue has some residual glue on it,which i want to get off before i try the second glue,i am thinking the rivets arn't so bad after all! But that PVC stuff for water pipes,[plumbing] that should work, what u think ???
 
If it's rubber I would be inclined to use a shower pan adhesive. Another option about a year ago I had a hole in the rubber mat floor of my van. It had some kind of fiber pad under it and I filled the hole with bondo. Then I has some black shower pan rubber I cut to fit and applied it with over the area with Weldwood contact cement. So far it's holding up fine.
 
The big one feels like it's rubbery, but the other says made of tough thermoplastic materials that flex and return to the original shape, so i don't think so !!! but i have decieded to pop rivet the two together!
 
Like Dr Sportster says, 3M Weatehrstrip adhesive. That's what's used to stick rubber weather strip and trim to metal on cars.
 


Since mudflaps are more subject to abuse and movement, mechanical fasteners would be my choice. Glue would work loose over time. Acetone will remove any glue residue from previous attempt.
 
(quoted from post at 11:20:25 08/30/20) Ok Kool. It's a work in progress, with that rivet gun i got,LOL !!

Good Luck. I used 1/4" bolts/nuts with fender washers to distribute loading of the fasteners.
 
(reply to post at 07:20:25 08/30/20)

I second the bolts and fender washers. You could put a bead of Lexel in there too for good measure. We always used a strip of at least 1/8" thick metal on both sides with nuts and bolts through it all. Just depends on if you want pretty or functional.
 
I got it all done, i used more rivets than they useed in the Golden Gate Bridge, but am satisfied how it all worked out,There is no glue that would stick to that plastic mudflap, but the rubbery one did, All done with that monkey business!
 

I am planning to extend the front ones on our Fire Department's 2018 Peterbilt tanker. They are set in a lot from the tire so that when we go out in the winter the salt brine goes way up and all down the side. I plan to use stainless screws and nuts.
 
(reply to post at 04:53:21 09/04/20)

If you've never used stainless fasteners you are in for a treat! I think I'd recommend stainless rivets myself. Or even heavy plastic ones over stainless nuts and bolts. But it really depends on which stainless grade you will use. Most stainless really isn't.

I can't give you grade numbers but if you have a fastenall near you I'd discuss with them what you are wanting to do.

The truly hard and truly stainless is hard to work with. It galls seriously easy so make certain you have a stainless certified anti-galling compound like some formulations of Never-Seize. Some say regular nickle anti-seize will do, and it might for what you are doing. We used tons of stainless fasteners when we built waste water treatment upgrades, we also used regular Permatex nickle anti-seize...it was a nightmare. Once stainless seizes there is little that can be done except cut it. It's best to use a stainless specific anti-seize, not an all purpose that they say will 'work' with stainless.
 

If you've never used stainless fasteners you are in for a treat! I think I'd recommend stainless rivets myself. Or even heavy plastic ones over stainless nuts and bolts. But it really depends on which stainless grade you will use. Most stainless really isn't.

I can't give you grade numbers but if you have a fastenall near you I'd discuss with them what you are wanting to do.

The truly hard and truly stainless is hard to work with. It galls seriously easy so make certain you have a stainless certified anti-galling compound like some formulations of Never-Seize. Some say regular nickle anti-seize will do, and it might for what you are doing. We used tons of stainless fasteners when we built waste water treatment upgrades, we also used regular Permatex nickle anti-seize...it was a nightmare. Once stainless seizes there is little that can be done except cut it. It's best to use a stainless specific anti-seize, not an all purpose that they say will 'work' with stainless.[/quote]


Thanks, for the offer Randy, but I think that I am good. I have sold leased and serviced equipment that works in caustic environments for 48 years.
 

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