(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

brushing paint

M

Mike(NEOhio)

Well-known Member
Location
Newbury, Ohio
I have a few small parts to paint, not enough to set up the gun. What's the trick to brushing. How to mix the reducer, what kind of brush, etc. Last time I tried it didn't turn out well. Brush marks, thick and thin spots. Should I mix it with more or less reducer than I would for spraying? All suggestions welcome. I have a gallon but can't get this color in a spray can.
 

Oil-based paints frequently require "thinning" to reduce their viscosity, or thickness, to improve flow and shorten drying time.
 
Would help to know what type of paint your using. There are vast differences in how the various paint types and qualities brush. Some won't brush well no matter how you do it and none brushes well enough to use on larger pieces. Truth of the matter is if your picky about the finished product brushing isn't going to make you happy. Buy a jam gun or for even smaller parts an air brush. I even sprayed the bolts and nuts and saved the brush for what was knocked off during assembly.
 

I have painted the cast iron parts of 3 different tractors using just a brush. The paint came from Case-IH. I did NOT use any reducer or thinner. I applied the paint thick and wet, using the brush to smooth out the runs as I went. Started painting on one side of the tractor and worked my way all around, right back to where I started, and then kept right on painting, applying the second coat. After allowing the first 2 coats to set up, a third coat, and maybe a fourth coat might be necessary, but when done, the results are every bit as good as if it was done with a spray gun. The trick, I believe, is to not be stingy with the paint.
 
I have painted well over 25 implements with a brush and IH oil based paints. My recommendations would be to use a good quality Purdy brush, do very little thinning with a compatible thinner, and add some Flood's Penetrol to the paint at about 10% of your total paint volume (only on the finish paint and not the primer coats). Thin only enough for suitable 'flowability' to the paint for brushing and use as few brush strokes to spread the paint as possible. My standard procedure is two coats of primer (I prefer IH's buff or yellow primer.) and two coats of finish paint, IH 2150 Red. If doing implements IH Blue from Van Sickle or Talisman are two choices as it is not available from CaseIH. I have heard that the IH Blue from Ace Hardware is good and a good match but I have never used it. To the final finish coat I add about one ounce of hardener to 6 to 8 ounces of paint. Hope this helps.
 
Sponge type brushes work well for small parts. There are many good brushes that will work with out brush stroke marks. Consider adding penetrol or paint flow enhancer for less brush strokes left behind.{ note a H-F door jam gun is 9.99 on sale -- you could spray and dispose of it cheap]
 
And they you need a decent compressor a regulator and a water separator and then you need a decent place to spray it in the first place you don?t need the compressor and air gun stirring up dust any more than you have to when you?re outside and then you need a decent mask so you don?t crap what ever color you happen to be painting for the next 3 weeks which can?t be healthy
 
Check the post down the page a ways for a couple of photos of brush jobs I've done.
On both of those I used Rustoleum primer and added a bit of lacquer thinner to make it flow better. I never use enamel reducer. Only lacquer thinner. The white paint I used was Old 55 brand tractor and implement enamel from Fleet Farm. The blue is Tisco brand. I use it straight out of the can for first coat. Add a but of lacquer thinner on the second coat to improve the flow. I've never used a hardener on a brush job but am going to give it a try next time. Like WesnIL suggests, I use a good Purdy china bristle brush. China bristle is the key.
I enjoy brush painting. It's kind of relaxing and not nearly the fast paced tempo of spraying. I use an old office chair and roll along as I go.
For you Ford guys the photo is a scan of an original dealer ad. So brushing is a Factory Approved method. Wink.
I have about a 16"x20" print of this in my office.


cvphoto8163.jpg
 
Purdy is a very good brand.
I think everyone has a Home Depot near them. They sell this Wooster brand which is good. A few $ cheaper than Purdy too.
The important thing is get a china bristle not a nylon bristle.
1 1/2" angled tip is just about right - unless you're painting a whole combine.

cvphoto8187.jpg
 
Brushing paint can work pretty good. What causes brush marks is the instant you draw the paint out of the can it begins to set up. Then the more you brush it the faster it will set up because you get air in the paint by working it. To minimize brush marks thin the paint about 10% and apply it as thin as you can with as few strokes as possible. The paint needs to be liquid enough it will flow together before setting up. Don't obsess with covering with just one coat. Multiple thin coats will do a nicer job. There is also additives which slow the drying time down which would help especially in warm weather. Use Flood Penetrol in oil based enamels for this.
 
Thanks I?ve never heard of Purdy or China bristle thanks for the information now I know what to look for
 
I use the cheaper brushes at Home Depot with good success on field machinery and castings . The big problem with though any brushes they pull bristle out and leave in finished job ., have get painters tape and pull them out before they dry.
I notice the older Fordson were hand brushed at factory 🏭. So I tried it on casting using Tallmans Ag Specialties. Fast and look good , spreads and flows nice on Castings ,
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Tgrasher
Procrastination at its best.
Replies
3
Views
1K
Patsdeere
P
P
Preserving patina on Cub.
Replies
11
Views
316
grandpa Love
grandpa Love
jd2cyl1943
Pondering spray Guns
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
montidale
M
S
1966 cub lo boy.. paint. Hood. White.
Replies
11
Views
1K
scott 1234
S
1
Paint question
Replies
9
Views
2K
Sprint 6
S
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top