NEED HELP - Dull Paint and Lite Rust on Chrome Trim

RTR

Well-known Member
Yeah it s not an old tractor but it s old and you guys know so much I don t know anywhere else to turn....

Does anyone have any tips on cleaning the lite surface rust on the chrome? I would also love some tips on getting this paint to shine better. After looking at it up close, I m thinking nothing will really help except a better paint job......


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considering what you have, i would err on the side of caution. for the chrome, in an out of the way spot , try using a chrome polish on a soft cloth and
see what happens. same with the paint, not sure from the pictures if its an old enamel or lacquer. but a little rubbing compound by hand on thenlower
fender or quarter panel.
 
(quoted from post at 17:40:39 03/25/20) considering what you have, i would err on the side of caution. for the chrome, in an out of the way spot , try using a chrome polish on a soft cloth and
see what happens. same with the paint, not sure from the pictures if its an old enamel or lacquer. but a little rubbing compound by hand on thenlower
fender or quarter panel.
are you saying proceed with caution because of it being a 55 Chevy and not Easy to get replacement trim for if I mess it up?
 
Once rust starts coming through chrome the only real fix is to have it re-chromed. If you stay after it you can prevent it
from getting worse by keeping the chrome polished. You could use a chrome polish or you could buff it with an auto polisher
with rubbing compound. This would help the dull paint as well. The surface of paint dries out and buffing it removes this
dried out paint exposing fresher paint underneath.
 
(quoted from post at 07:46:37 03/26/20) Once rust starts coming through chrome the only real fix is to have it re-chromed. If you stay after it you can prevent it
from getting worse by keeping the chrome polished. You could use a chrome polish or you could buff it with an auto polisher
with rubbing compound. This would help the dull paint as well. The surface of paint dries out and buffing it removes this
dried out paint exposing fresher paint underneath.

Thank you Stephen. Do you think this paint is lawyer or enamel? It for sure doesn t have a clear coat that I can see.


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Can't tell from pictures. If you really want to know, find a place perhaps under the hood you don't mind damaging the paint and put a drop of lacquer thinner on it and see if it lifts the paint or whether the
paint dissolves. If it dissolves it's lacquer. I don't see it makes a difference unless you plan to put a coat of something on it.

If you try to buff the paint and it's now working for you, you can wet sand the paint with 2000 grit paper and then buff it.
 
Rat Rods are all the rage now. Grunge it up some more ! Nice shiny paint and chrome are out of style now.
 
here in MI, any number of detailing shops would clean, buff wax and detail interior for about 200$ and this car would look awesome.
 
Could be a lacquer job . Try to buff it out .For chrome aluminunm foil and simichrome polish. That is a beautiful car I am envious of you . Love 55s. { all trim a stainless].
 
First off, beautiful '55! For your chrome, if not too pitted, use chrome polish with a soft cloth. If it is too pitted, then 0000 steel wool will nock down the corrosion, then follow-up with polish. You can even combine some polish with the steel wool. As others have said, do an obscure area first in order to evaluate your process. Your paint appears to be lacquer, but could be a type of oxidized enamel or urethane. You may address this by hand with microfiber or cotten cloths with a creamy polishing compound. You could also use a powered buffer, but take care not to "burn" through. Do not use a course or more aggressive compound. Polishing will take longer, but will be safer to your existing surface. Regardless, take care to not remove too much while polishing, as this will begin to expose the underlying substrates should the layers of color be excessively removed, causing transparency. The oxidized paint will be removed as you polish, exposing a glossy finish. If you hand-polish, the oxidized, or "dead" paint will be evident on the polishing cloth or foam buffer pad if used. Since you are unaware as to the type of paint or thickness of the color, proceed with the utmost caution. Even a professional is unable to guarantee this process because of the unknowns. Use blue masking tape (easily removed without damage) on all sharp body lines and panel edges, as those areas are more prone to rubbing through. After the major portion of the panel(s) has been polished to your satisfaction, remove the tape and follow up those areas lightly and by hand. I would do the paint first and only after a thorough wash. Then go to the chrome or stainless so as not to cause debris to contaminate the process, causing further damage (scratches). If you do rub through the color portion of your finish, the only method to restore is to repaint. If it is an original finish, then be very, very cautious to let it remain as such, for original paint is more valuable. Otherwise, if you have the ability, go to an automotive paint supplier (or call them) and explain what you are attempting to do. They will provide you more information and correct product. I would love to have that car! Best of luck to you and cherish that ride!
 
Thank you all for the help. I will be posting again either later this evening or in the morning because I tried some rubbing compound and it left a "stain" on the finish. I ll post that later when I get back home.

FYI - this car is getting cleaned up to be sold. It belongs to a friend of mine and his dad passed. He has no reason to keep it as he isn t a car guy. I m just helping him get it cleaned up and advertised. He doesn t like dealing with the public on selling stuff.
 
if your intent is to sell the car, i would give it a good wash and vaccuuming and call it good. its probably a collector or restorer that is buying, and they
would prefer it in its work clothes.
 
Paint dries out and gets porous is the reason the rubbing compound stained the paint. You have to remove the part of that paint that is that dry. This is what an automotive buffer will do for you. HF has a 7"
polisher that works very well for around 40 bucks. Not all rubbing compounds are equal either. I never had any luck with Turtle Wax brand. I mostly use 3M or Meguiars.
 
(quoted from post at 07:24:39 03/27/20) Paint dries out and gets porous is the reason the rubbing compound stained the paint. You have to remove the part of that paint that is that dry. This is what an automotive buffer will do for you. HF has a 7"
polisher that works very well for around 40 bucks. Not all rubbing compounds are equal either. I never had any luck with Turtle Wax brand. I mostly use 3M or Meguiars.

Thank you Stephen. If you say it works good (I m Leary of their power tools when for about twice the price you can buy name brand) then I ll get one and try it. Where can you buy good pads? I m actually going to pay a guy to do the whole car this time since he knows what he is doing and then I ll get the equipment and "practice" on the tractors I paint.
 
As mentioned below, aluminum foil really helps clean up light surface rust on chrome parts. I'll just add that I dip the foil into dish soapy water, then buff the part. It's likely a short term fix, as you
have not really fixed the blemishes on the chrome, just made them hard to see.
 

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