Hardener for CaseIH Ironguard paint?

Classic Case · Feb 10, 2020

I want to use a hardener in my Case Ironguard paint and I was told by the dealer the paint is acrylic enamel made by Valspar. Do I have to use Valspar harderner and which one as I see there are 2 different ones,Renew or 4625? Or can I use another brand hardener such as Majic, kryllon, Napa version or others? Thanks for any help!

glennster · Feb 10, 2020

safest advice i can give you is stick with the hardener that your paint recommends. by experimenting with mixing different paint lines you increase your chances of creating un expected consequences. i have roughly 45 years in the auto body business, and currently own a shop.

WESnIL · Feb 10, 2020

You should be able to buy the correct and compatible hardener from your CaseIH dealer. My dealer carries both the paint and the hardener. It is a little on the expensive side but you don't use much. I use way less than recommended amounts with good results.

Classic Case · Feb 10, 2020

Thanks, I kinda of figured that but wanted to see if anyone tried different kinds. When trying to buy the Valspar harderner it is not to be found in stores and it's online but who knows how long it has been sitting. I just thought if I bought an off brand local it would make me feel better!

yakob · Feb 10, 2020

Iron gard is synthetic enamel not acrylic.

If you can't find the Valspar hardener at the dealer, go to a Deere dealer and see if they have it -- identical product.

If they don't have it you just need to find a hardener for synthetic enamels. I buy 5-star hardener from the internet a half-dozen bottles at a time. Napa 8010 works but is a little pricey. Both of these I have used with both Deere and IH enamels with no noticeable effects in sprayability, curing, or durability.

I would NOT recommend using less than the maximum amount suggested on the paint can. More hardener = better UV resistance, and you need all you can get on synthetic enamels. Period.

Classic Case · Feb 10, 2020

Someone else told me it is was synthetic enamel. The Caseih parts man told me it was acrylic enamel. I am adding it to the Caseih iron guard non-glare black so it may add a little gloss to it. I will check the JD dealer for it and if they don't have it I will try the internet and last resort Napa. Thanks for help!

Stephen Newell · Feb 10, 2020

Personally I wouldn't use valspar paint on anything. I used valspar paint on a tractor and you could almost see it fade daily. Then there house paint takes more than twice as many coats to get it to cover.

As a rule of thumb with any paint it's best to use the same brand paint, thinner and hardener. The chemists have formulated these products to work together and another brand might be missing an ingredient.

yakob · Feb 11, 2020

(quoted from post at 20:22:42 02/10/20) Personally I wouldn't use valspar paint on anything. I used valspar paint on a tractor and you could almost see it fade daily. Then there house paint takes more than twice as many coats to get it to cover.

As a rule of thumb with any paint it's best to use the same brand paint, thinner and hardener. The chemists have formulated these products to work together and another brand might be missing an ingredient.

I agree with using the full "kit" 9/10 times. For most of these synthetic enamels it's a little less important...heck the Deere and IH dealers didn't usually even have hardeners on the shelf 15-20 years ago, and very little if anything for thinners.

I've used no less than 5 different labels for hardener on these, and various reducers. I never use lacquer thinner, which a lot of people get away with.

The "Quick dry" Deere enamel called for their corresponding quick dry thinner, which was cost-inflated xylene IIRC.

Rustoleum doesn't make a hardener, people add it.

The synthetic enamels just dry to cure...there's not really a "missing component" risk as they aren't catalyzed. Yes there are probably hardeners out there that will cause issue but I've yet to have any issue with any labeled as synthetic enamel hardeners (and a few acrylic enamel ones). Some of these hardeners were also likely developed by chemists to be somewhat universal for these cheaper paint products.

Classic Case · Feb 11, 2020

Thanks for help! I am planning on using
the CaseIh iron gard non glare Black. If
I use harderner will it be to glossy?
Should I use without harderner? I would
not mind a little more sheen in the non
glare paint. I also don't mind it taking
time to cure but I am worried about
fading and oil,fuel spills and other
possible things that would ruin the
paint.

rob in nh · Feb 11, 2020

Hardener will definitely make the paint better. I use it all the time. It will be more resistant to fading and resistant to chemical spills.

David G · Feb 12, 2020

I use NAPA

ncazer · 2024-04-24T20:14:18-0500

So many threads on what hardener and reducer to use with iron gard — it’s overwhelming. I’m an amateur, painting my first tractor, but I did work at a body shop when I was younger and have done know-how.

Anyways, I can’t even track down a proper TDS for iron guard. I’ve called my IH dealer, tried calling IHCase direct, tried calling VELSPAR, and finally someone at Sherwin was able to send me something.

It doesn’t mention a reducer, but interestingly enough it suggests reducing 4:1 with acetone, which many folks on various forums and threads say not to do. Separately, when I asked IHCase dealer what the label is on their suggested reducer, he said it’s also pure acetone.

I know this is an older thread… What do ya’ll think about this?

showcrop · 2024-04-25T07:23:21-0500

It all depends on your prep job. If you are putting five hours into your prep you have little to lose if it weathers off in three years. If you are putting fifty hours into it you should use real paint rather than wishing you had after two years.

ncazer · 2024-04-25T07:40:32-0500

Thanks for the reply.

I’ve spent enough time on disassembly and prep where I want it to last more than 3 years, but can’t afford $700-800 in automotive paint. I’m all in for under $450 for a gal of iron gard and a gal of PPG CRE-321 primer with appropriate hardeners.

The body looks pretty good, some rust on the rear axle I won’t be able to get to but the cast iron is either stripped to metal or scuffed up real good with no flaking or rust. I’m going to try using Rustoleum Rust Restore on the rust parts of axle I can’t access without complete disassembly and then shoot that PPG epoxy over the rest.

All panels I’m stripping to bare metal and treating with PPG phosphoric acid.

showcrop · 2024-04-25T08:01:26-0500

I am spending way under $450/gal. I look at type of paint a lot more than brand, Valspar at CNH?? or price.

ncazer · 2024-04-25T11:38:35-0500

Under 450 for both 1 gallon of PPG primer+hardener and 1 gallon of IHC Iron Gard+Velspar REN3001 hardener. I could look at using PPG Omni Acrylic instead of IHC Iron Gard.

Hardener for CaseIH Ironguard paint?

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