Paint question

Ultradog MN

Well-known Member
Location
Twin Cities
I painted a bunch of parts on my Ford a week ago. Used acrylic enamel paint with a hardener.
The paint I used was supposed to be the correct Empire Blue but it is a little dark in my opinion and I would like to repaint everything with a different brand.
What do I have to do to get another coat to adhere properly.
Is there some kind of a chemical I can use that will prepare the parts for another coat?
It would be a heck of a lot of work to scuff all these parts by hand.
Thanks for any advice.


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I think you need to scuff them. The purpose to scuffing is to create more surface area and also valleys. This improves the ability of the paint to stick. A nice glossy smooth surface isn't good for paint to stick to. There are two ways paint sticks. Mechanical bond and chemical bond. Since the paint is cured mechanical bond is your only option. I would scuff them with 320 grit sand paper. 400 grit would also be okay. It might be better to wet sand to keep the paper from plugging up.

Just an FYI don't paint under trees especially in the spring when sap is dripping. I epoxy primed two bare metal truck fenders outside. One was under the edge of a tree the other wasn't. A year latter I was getting ready to do the final body work and paint. The one that was under the tree had about a dozen small drip shaped rust marks that the primer didn't stick to. Took me a while to figure out what had happened.
 
I would be more worried that the new paint you want to use will lift what you have already painted. May want to do a test spray out on a small part to see the result. Mixing brands may cause more problems.
 
is it an automotive paint from a jobber! reason i ask is have them re mix the color and tint it lighter. they should have dec cards with color chip formulas and variance formulas to get the color you want. that way you use the same material that you started with. you can scuff with a red scotchbrite, wax and grease remover (pre cleano if you are old school) then tack rag it and shoot it.
 
Just scuff the paint with a scotchbrite pad or fine sandpaper. Be sure the brand of paint you use is chemically similar. If you go over it with a paint that has stronger solvents it can cause the paint to lift. It could wrinkle up like you put paint stripper on it. You wouldn't be able to adequately test the finish either. You could try a spot and it would work fine and then start spraying all of it only to find out there would be spots here and there the finish lifted.

It would be safer if you would alter the color of the paint you are using and use the same thing. If it's pre-packaged paint you might be able to mix white paint into it to lighten it. If you are having it made have them change their formula to the color you want. If they can't match a color you are buying paint at the wrong place.
 
These bright colours don't have the greatest hiding, less white than normal, so they will darken up a bit if coated over itself. We would re-prime then repaint of get the re-coat re-tinted a little lighter to compensate.

Keep in mind that these paints are classified as therm-o-set not them-o-plastic. The hardener is the cross linker so so they are pretty solvent resistant. The lab cure test is MEK 100 plus double rubs no effect.
 
I like that color better than the empire blue. Empire blue is too light for me. I like the bolder blue. I'm putting safety blue on mine from KBS.
 

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