Rustoleum on top of Tisco?

I'm painting a trailer to match my tractor, and after priming and 12 cans of Tisco's Ford Vermillion Red I'm still in need of another coat or two. Rather than waiting to get more Tisco shipped, I'm considering grabbing Rustoleum Ford Red from the nearest tractor supply. Two questions - how close will the color be, and can I put one on top of the other without adverse effects?
 
Difficult to say if the Rustoleum would lift the Tisco or not. I looked for a MSDS sheet on it and couldn't find one to see what is in it. The strongest solvents in the Rustoleum are acetone and toluene. If you can find out if the Tisco has these solvents then it would probably be alright. Look at the instructions on the Tisco. If it says anything like put all the coats on in an hour or wait seven days or something like that it has a recoat window. To put another full coat on after the paint has dried will require you to scuff sand it whether you use the Tisco again or Rustoleum. This would extend that recoat window a second week. The scratches in the surface caused by sanding will allow the solvents to penetrate more and can get under it.

The color should match well enough you could use it on one tractor. It just might not work if you sprayed part of a panel with two different brands of paint.
 
I ve noticed that there is a paradigm in the aftermarket painting industry that everything must be abraded before a coating can be applied. There is two types of adhesion mechanical and chemical. Mechanical is based on friction and is somewhat limited. Chemical can be immensely strong and is the reason you cannot walk through walls, pull a metal bar apart etc. Most adhesives rely on what is called hydrogen bonding or Van der vaals forces.
There are various recognized tests that can be performed for adhesion, cross hatch, Olsen. Reverse impact, t-bend, and others. Unfortunately these are all destructive so not possible to do on a finished product. A lot of what is passed off as adequate adhesion is actually rather tenuous which is evident when the painted part is stressed in some way, bent, flexed, knocked.
I m currently employed on a coil coating line, occasionally we need to repaint a coil. Never have I ever seen a scuffing operation performed prior to repainting. The trick is to know what finish is compatible with what other. This is why epoxies and urethanes make for good primers.
Scuffing in itself won t hurt unless it interferes with the surface tension of the coating. You need to use very fine sand paper to make this an issue.
The main issue with painting a second coat over an existing coat is colour control, so a primer between them alleviates this or you have to have the coating specifically tinted to compensate.
 
I ended up going ahead and giving it a shot and it worked out fine - Rustoleum and Tisco use the same solvent and it appeared to adhere well without any sanding a couple of hours after the original coat.

A note for anyone looking at those paint brands in the future - Tisco is more red, Rustoleum is more orange. They're not close enough to match next to each other, but painting one on top of the other blended fine after a full coat.
 
(quoted from post at 09:19:58 05/06/19) I ve noticed that there is a paradigm in the aftermarket painting industry that everything must be abraded before a coating can be applied. There is two types of adhesion mechanical and chemical. Mechanical is based on friction and is somewhat limited. Chemical can be immensely strong and is the reason you cannot walk through walls, pull a metal bar apart etc. Most adhesives rely on what is called hydrogen bonding or Van der vaals forces.
There are various recognized tests that can be performed for adhesion, cross hatch, Olsen. Reverse impact, t-bend, and others. Unfortunately these are all destructive so not possible to do on a finished product. A lot of what is passed off as adequate adhesion is actually rather tenuous which is evident when the painted part is stressed in some way, bent, flexed, knocked.
I m currently employed on a coil coating line, occasionally we need to repaint a coil. Never have I ever seen a scuffing operation performed prior to repainting. The trick is to know what finish is compatible with what other. This is why epoxies and urethanes make for good primers.
Scuffing in itself won t hurt unless it interferes with the surface tension of the coating. You need to use very fine sand paper to make this an issue.
The main issue with painting a second coat over an existing coat is colour control, so a primer between them alleviates this or you have to have the coating specifically tinted to compensate.

You will not get any adhesion with these products coating over a cured gloss surface, thus the scuffing. This is following label directions and using the products as designed in any case that I have seen. Good luck complaining to a company about an adhesion issue if you do it to yourself by averting their process.

You're speaking from an industry that has entirely different paradigms and needs.

Why do you need to repaint coils?
 
Spray a test panel and see how the other paint matches. As far as recoating either wait a week or test spray an area of the tongue and see how it reacts to the paint you put on first. I've been painting for 40 years and one of my paint reps had a good saying, "If you can't convince em, confuse em".
 
The chemistry of an acrylic, polyester, urethane etc. is the same whether its pre or post painted. The manufactures of the aftermarket know you cannot detect adhesion
issues easily without destructive testing. Mechanical adhesion is better than no adhesion thereby no claim.

In OEM post paint the biggest concern is dirt. So scuffing is a no no especially in the paint shop. When I was in appliance they would just scuff the defect area to
remove the defect and then rehang the part for repainting. In automotive they would use their version of an aftermarket no bake coating scuff the defect out and apply.
The scuffing was to remove the defect not improve adhesion.

In regards to why would coils be repainted, occasionally usually on the off shifts errors would be made. Paint would be over reduced causing off colour, starving which
the inspector would catch at the end of the process or various other issues which would require repainting. A twenty ton coil would be painted in twenty minutes and
occasionally mistakes happen.
 
At least one of them is the wrong color then. They are suppose to match factory spec's where a person could use the paint for touch up.
 
(quoted from post at 05:29:06 05/08/19) At least one of them is the wrong color then. They are suppose to match factory spec's where a person could use the paint for touch up.

Search before posting this it looks like all the brands vary just a bit, based on others feedback.
 
(quoted from post at 07:27:03 05/08/19) The chemistry of an acrylic, polyester, urethane etc. is the same whether its pre or post painted. The manufactures of the aftermarket know you cannot detect adhesion
issues easily without destructive testing. Mechanical adhesion is better than no adhesion thereby no claim.

In OEM post paint the biggest concern is dirt. So scuffing is a no no especially in the paint shop. When I was in appliance they would just scuff the defect area to
remove the defect and then rehang the part for repainting. In automotive they would use their version of an aftermarket no bake coating scuff the defect out and apply.
The scuffing was to remove the defect not improve adhesion.

In regards to why would coils be repainted, occasionally usually on the off shifts errors would be made. Paint would be over reduced causing off colour, starving which
the inspector would catch at the end of the process or various other issues which would require repainting. A twenty ton coil would be painted in twenty minutes and
occasionally mistakes happen.

I'm standing here reading this as though you are saying there is no point in scuffing a previous coating in order to add another coat of something. Is that correct? You are saying that it should only be used to remove/feather out the defect area? Can you clarify? I can't tell if you are just sharing a story from your experience or if you are making a general claim.

Regarding your mention of the term "adhesion issues"...Can you define what you consider an "adhesion issue"? This is one of the points I keep trying to get back to - what is considered an adhesion issue on something that is going to get worked after coating (i.e. coils) is a vastly different paradigm and irrelevant to a rigid tractor frame, etc.

You said it yourself "you cannot detect adhesion issues easily without destructive testing"...If this is true then they are NOT adhesion issues to begin with in their respective application. "I bet if you folded your tractor hood in half, the paint would fall right off"...ok...good thing I'm not going to do that!

Adhesion issues WILL crop up on a previous, cured surface that has not been cleaned and scuffed properly. This is absolutely not debatable under the paradigm of common automotive refinishing products. I hope the statement you made before is not an attempt to make a claim counter to this as that would be misleading.

Likely for the OP here, scuffing is not going to gain anything without some serious time lapse; Rattle cans dry out very slowly. Depending on how long the first coats have dried, I'd be more worried about scuffing just gumming up and peeling it and/or the next coat lifting. I wouldn't use them in the first place on anything but a TV mount or something like that...You'd probably need an honest 10 to 15 coats to get any film build (that estimate is just a hypothesis based on experience, but am curious how many it would actually take!). They will only give you so good of a finish...so worrying about the nitty-gritty details isn't going to gain you much...
 
For the record - I didn't scuff :) I was slightly outside the recoat window - 3 hours after my last spray vs less than 1 - but I'm painting a trailer and it seems to be sticking just fine so wasn't looking for perfection here.

That said you all are having a different discussion at this point so don't let me get in the way.
 
If you are wishing to know if you have adhesion problems with what you have done allow the finish to cure a month and press a piece of masking tape hard on the finish and then lift it off. If there is any serious adhesion problems the tape will remove the paint.
 
This section of this site is about asking for and as a consequence receiving advice on painting. As a contributor with considerable experience and a significant
education in this area the advice given will be based on best available science. If the recipient or any other follower of the thread wants to follow or ignore the
advice it is their personal choice, I will take no personal offence either way.

Every industry has their own version of what is considered adequate adhesion, automotive likes the crosshatch adhesion test which I suspect agriculture (Tractors)
would also prefer. Coating removal via flexing due to vibration during use would be the failure mode they are most likely trying to avoid.
Coil coating has the most stringent adhesion requirement as the substrate is expected to be roll formed, or stamped which could entail bending, stretching, and or
punching.

Either way why except mediocrity when excellence is so easy to obtain.

I was told years ago the way we make ink for our prints is not possible by our coating supplier's. We now have a monopoly with our prints and our competitors have been
unable to figure out what we are doing differently, so much for paradigms.

I have a plaque on my desk that stats "You Can Agree With Me Or You Can Be Wrong".
 
(quoted from post at 07:30:57 05/09/19) This section of this site is about asking for and as a consequence receiving advice on painting. As a contributor with considerable experience and a significant
education in this area the advice given will be based on best available science. If the recipient or any other follower of the thread wants to follow or ignore the
advice it is their personal choice, I will take no personal offence either way.

Every industry has their own version of what is considered adequate adhesion, automotive likes the crosshatch adhesion test which I suspect agriculture (Tractors)
would also prefer. Coating removal via flexing due to vibration during use would be the failure mode they are most likely trying to avoid.
Coil coating has the most stringent adhesion requirement as the substrate is expected to be roll formed, or stamped which could entail bending, stretching, and or
punching.

Either way why except mediocrity when excellence is so easy to obtain.

I was told years ago the way we make ink for our prints is not possible by our coating supplier's. We now have a monopoly with our prints and our competitors have been
unable to figure out what we are doing differently, so much for paradigms.

I have a plaque on my desk that stats "You Can Agree With Me Or You Can Be Wrong".

Same here. Just sharing experience and knowledge.

Is a scuffing a surface leading to mediocrity or not? I had some legitimate questions about what your process entails that seem counter intuitive with reality. Your posts legitimately come off as "don't scuff it is a waste of time" and that sir is FALSE in so many occasions. This along with a failure to at least acknowledge some compatibility issues with certain primers over other products you tout makes me highly skeptical of your advice. These products are designed with the science you keep bringing up but for some reason your science is better? So are we supposed to follow labels or just throw them out the door?

Define "mediocre." Again...you don't put 10-ply tires on a Chevy Cavalier "because they are better"...it's an entirely different use case from an F350...
 
I stand behind my 40 plus years of experience and 6 years of highly specialized education. Either way whether any advice given or followed or not is still the personal choice of the recipient.

Question when is the last time you sanded the interior walls of your house when redecorating with a new paint colour. Even with the old alkyds if you wanted to repaint with the crappy vinyl acetate latex a transition primer was a considerably better solution than scuffing.
 
Myself, I always sand everything even if it's lacquer. The finish tends to get smoother and better with each sanding. It's just worth the trouble.
 
(quoted from post at 09:58:11 05/10/19) I stand behind my 40 plus years of experience and 6 years of highly specialized education. Either way whether any advice given or followed or not is still the personal choice of the recipient.

Question when is the last time you sanded the interior walls of your house when redecorating with a new paint colour. Even with the old alkyds if you wanted to repaint with the crappy vinyl acetate latex a transition primer was a considerably better solution than scuffing.

FWIW you are being dodgy as to if your advice is "scuffing is never useful" or not, which is a question I keep asking. You have said a couple times "people can take my advice or leave it" but I can't tell specifically what that advice actually is.

It *seems* as though you are saying do not scuff ever. Which means we are, in your opinion, better off to throw out all the tech manuals and chemistry which has been developed for this to be the proper procedure on these products.

Good luck blending a clearcoat in and not having it fail in 2 years.

In your coil recoating example: no scuffing. Good for you, you said it yourself you had a specific process for that, and that sounds like it is pretty fresh paint you are going over.

Latex house paint: no scuffing and never have. That crap also never seems to cure out AND I have never had glossy walls to go over. Also most of it is labeled as primer/paint in one and the label doesn't require anything fancy. I also don't recall the last time I was worried about flexing or weather hitting my interior walls to put adhesion to the test..

There isn't ANY automotive primer or paint that I have seen that says "just spray it over what exists"! If your advice is to do the process as you have outlined pleas cite products that are designed to do this with, affordable, available, and in colors relevant to the forum.
 
(quoted from post at 10:03:53 05/10/19) Myself, I always sand everything even if it's lacquer. The finish tends to get smoother and better with each sanding. It's just worth the trouble.

Exactly. No way around it especially on restoration work. Heck some of this stuff has 8 paint jobs on it!
 
I've been following along this discussion as I do some tractor, car, equipment and truck painting. I typically use an acrylic enamel or single stage urethane with an occassional two stage job.

I'd be interested in your recommended process for prepping a 2-10 year old factory paint job for recoating with an automotive AE 2K single stage paint.
Assume no body work, just original paint that is faded from weather exposure.

Also, assume the same job didn't turn out well and needs redone a couple of weeks later. What steps would you recommend.
 
Scuffing for adhesion, not essential, for reducing excess coating different story, paint remover would be a better choice. If you consider the amount of lead driers in the alkyds and leaded pigments in other older paint jobs I would avoid scuffing at all costs. The old International and Allis Chalmers tractors I suspect are loaded with lead.

The automotive manufactures have a recoat limit in their specifications. If I remember properly its three recoats at GM. Their concern was not so much the thickness of the coating but rather orange peel which gets successively worse with more coats on vertical surfaces. Our line was horizontal so orange peel was not much of an issue. They would weigh our parts if they expected the limit was exceeded. I worked at a parts supplier at the time. The more scuffing they did to remove dirt defects the more they had to repair as the scuffing itself caused dirt. Believe it or not they had a 25% reject rate, as their quality engineer this stuff drove me nuts. The old adage you can t fly like and eagle when flying like with the turkeys really applied.
When I want to remove some coating in the lab, looking for metal defects etc., we use salt and MEK as a paste and rub off the coating in the area.

Occasionally we get customers returning old coils that they want repainted or coils that had issues when painted such as wavy edge, centre buckle that require tension leveling before repainting which may take weeks or months. Even excess that has been held in stores that is quite old, no problem repainting definitely no scuffing. High, medium, or low gloss makes no difference.

Went to Cuba a few times on vacation, seen what multiple coats of paint looks like on a car looks like, not good.

If someone tapes something to your wall and you want to remove it you ll learn quickly about adhesion, especially vinyl acetate over an alkyd. No amount of scuffing will make it stick and if you have an older home this lesson was learned quickly.
 
(quoted from post at 10:45:17 05/13/19) Scuffing for adhesion, not essential, for reducing excess coating different story, paint remover would be a better choice. If you consider the amount of lead driers in the alkyds and leaded pigments in other older paint jobs I would avoid scuffing at all costs. The old International and Allis Chalmers tractors I suspect are loaded with lead.

The automotive manufactures have a recoat limit in their specifications. If I remember properly its three recoats at GM. Their concern was not so much the thickness of the coating but rather orange peel which gets successively worse with more coats on vertical surfaces. Our line was horizontal so orange peel was not much of an issue. They would weigh our parts if they expected the limit was exceeded. I worked at a parts supplier at the time. The more scuffing they did to remove dirt defects the more they had to repair as the scuffing itself caused dirt. Believe it or not they had a 25% reject rate, as their quality engineer this stuff drove me nuts. The old adage you can t fly like and eagle when flying like with the turkeys really applied.
When I want to remove some coating in the lab, looking for metal defects etc., we use salt and MEK as a paste and rub off the coating in the area.

Occasionally we get customers returning old coils that they want repainted or coils that had issues when painted such as wavy edge, centre buckle that require tension leveling before repainting which may take weeks or months. Even excess that has been held in stores that is quite old, no problem repainting definitely no scuffing. High, medium, or low gloss makes no difference.

Went to Cuba a few times on vacation, seen what multiple coats of paint looks like on a car looks like, not good.

If someone tapes something to your wall and you want to remove it you ll learn quickly about adhesion, especially vinyl acetate over an alkyd. No amount of scuffing will make it stick and if you have an older home this lesson was learned quickly.

The house paint references are just about as relevant as the references to the coils and OEM processes. What products are you using for these coils that we can use on our body panels that help us avoid having to abrade a previous intact coat for adhesion?

Again with the paradigm shift... How much *aftermarket* automotive work have you done and what products? Please explain how I can blend clear coat in on a panel without scuffing down to about 800 grit.

Yes those old coatings are loaded with lead -- that is why we have PPE and there are laws around that sort of thing. There are also safety concerns and laws around using cleaners like TSP that has come up a few times elsewhere.

We are looking at 2 totally different viewpoints here. I see you saying "never scuff it's pointless" but then giving no real way to avoid it. There isn't a clearcoat that I've seen on the market that will go over another cured out, intact, slick coat of clearcoat. Period. You will get 0 support from the manufacturer WHEN it fails in the near future. Once you are out of the recoat window, I know of no other way to avoid abrasion. Same facts stand if you use an epoxy primer...you can not just wait 2 years and throw the next coat on. It will flake right off of that hard cured surface.

I can't bring a project that I'm halfway through into your coil coating line and get an automotive grade finish. I have to work with products and time I have available.

I apologize for blurring the line between an adhesion debate and a removal of defects/old coating for other reasons. That was not my intent.
 
(quoted from post at 14:31:26 05/10/19) I've been following along this discussion as I do some tractor, car, equipment and truck painting. I typically use an acrylic enamel or single stage urethane with an occassional two stage job.

I'd be interested in your recommended process for prepping a 2-10 year old factory paint job for recoating with an automotive AE 2K single stage paint.
Assume no body work, just original paint that is faded from weather exposure.

Also, assume the same job didn't turn out well and needs redone a couple of weeks later. What steps would you recommend.

If the old job is in good physical condition i.e. not flaking off or delaminating and you trust it as a base:

sand w/ 320 and maroon schotch pads where needed
2 coats urethane surfacer
block surfacer
reapply surfacer where needed
DA w/ 400 or 600 depending on paint choice (metallic needs finer sanding)
spray paint

You need to use etch primer or epoxy anywhere you get bare metal before you put surfacer on. There may be some back and forth between surfacer, block sanding various grits, more surfacer but these are some loose guidelines.

I would definitely not use a metallic single stage, btw.

Or if you want to go against the labels on any surfacer money can buy AND throw out normal practice that people doing this professionally use, just get the surface good and clean and start spraying on top of it like ol' Ronald says.
 
When I first took coatings courses years ago the motto for the industry was ?To Decorate and protect?. Basically this means prevent corrosion, mitigate weathering and be aesthetically pleasing. Other courses in quality engineering I took for certificates had their own motto ?Do it right the first time.?

To meet the requirements of their motto coatings are applied in a system first treatment to prevent corrosion and promote adhesion to the substrate, secondly primer to promote adhesion to the treatment and the basecoat and/or topcoat. The basecoat contains the pigment for colour or if no basecoat the topcoat. Topcoat if alone or clear-coat provides the weathering protection. It all works together as one system.

Now for a hobbyist you want to follow the second motto. On a tractor the prime coat is probably only 0.5 mils thick and the topcoat 1.5 mils. If the integrity of the system is broken you need to have a plan and the available supply?s on hand, treatment, primer and topcoat to properly to restore it. The new paint job weathering nicely but corroding flaking, and/or chipping off is not what you probably are looking for.
Once you start scuffing your committed there is no going back.
 
(quoted from post at 11:13:44 05/14/19) When I first took coatings courses years ago the motto for the industry was ?To Decorate and protect?. Basically this means prevent corrosion, mitigate weathering and be aesthetically pleasing. Other courses in quality engineering I took for certificates had their own motto ?Do it right the first time.?

To meet the requirements of their motto coatings are applied in a system first treatment to prevent corrosion and promote adhesion to the substrate, secondly primer to promote adhesion to the treatment and the basecoat and/or topcoat. The basecoat contains the pigment for colour or if no basecoat the topcoat. Topcoat if alone or clear-coat provides the weathering protection. It all works together as one system.

Now for a hobbyist you want to follow the second motto. On a tractor the prime coat is probably only 0.5 mils thick and the topcoat 1.5 mils. If the integrity of the system is broken you need to have a plan and the available supply?s on hand, treatment, primer and topcoat to properly to restore it. The new paint job weathering nicely but corroding flaking, and/or chipping off is not what you probably are looking for.
Once you start scuffing your committed there is no going back.

Paintron, you can come here to YT and tell about how much education and experience you have, but you would do well to recognize that there are a number of guys here, not including myself, who have been recognized, without telling how much they know, as the go to guys on painting, simply because of posts that they have made over many years, and occasionally referring to various experiences that they have had in their own autobody shops. I think that it will be very difficult to convince guys here to disregard the manufacturer's instructions and follow yours.
 
There is just no downside to scuff sanding a finish. The DIY doesn't have pristine conditions so there is usually a little dust in the finish. Sanding removes this dust and smooth's the surface for the next coat. Then many finishes function by a mechanical bond and the scratches in the surface created by the sand aid to the adhesion of the finish.
 

I'm a painting novice, complete novice. I read this thread, because this is how I usually work... Rust Oleum... Krylon... cans are my friend.

Anyway, what I can't understand is this reasoning...

Chemical bonding is better than mechanical bonding, so do not scuff.

But, but, but... doesn't an increase in surface area facilitate better chemical reaction/bonding as well?

If you start with a dry substrate or coat and you're only scuffing just a little bit, so that you aren't going through the layer that you're scuffing, you're increasing surface area...which should help the chemical bonding, right?

Since I don't have years and years of experience, I read the instructions on the cans. Most of the cans nowadays have two sets of instructions for subsequent coats:

Usually, many of the newer finishes are tack dry in about 20 minutes, and they say to do subsequent coats within an hour, so that you're getting what I think of as a "wet bond"... no scuffing required. That's the first method.

But, then, the cans say that, if you have to wait longer to recoat, you then need to wait 48 hours for complete dryness, and then scuff a little before re-coating. That's the second method.

Guys like paintron, working in automotive and professional shops can optimize conditions, and recoating times. They can take advantage of the "wet bond"... us hacks...that have to work around work, animals, other commitments and such, usually have to scuff every once in a while; because we've had to let one coat dry past the wet bond state, while we're doing something else.
 
(quoted from post at 08:00:24 05/15/19) There is just no downside to scuff sanding a finish. The DIY doesn't have pristine conditions so there is usually a little dust in the finish. Sanding removes this dust and smooth's the surface for the next coat. Then many finishes function by a mechanical bond and the scratches in the surface created by the sand aid to the adhesion of the finish.

Yep. I've gotten to where I'm at near 0 dust even without a booth but I just wasn't making the correlation to sanding causing dust in the finish. That just sounded like poor wipe down and cleanliness to me.
 
(quoted from post at 08:21:21 05/15/19)
I'm a painting novice, complete novice. I read this thread, because this is how I usually work... Rust Oleum... Krylon... cans are my friend.

Anyway, what I can't understand is this reasoning...

Chemical bonding is better than mechanical bonding, so do not scuff.

But, but, but... doesn't an increase in surface area facilitate better chemical reaction/bonding as well?

If you start with a dry substrate or coat and you're only scuffing just a little bit, so that you aren't going through the layer that you're scuffing, you're increasing surface area...which should help the chemical bonding, right?

Since I don't have years and years of experience, I read the instructions on the cans. Most of the cans nowadays have two sets of instructions for subsequent coats:

Usually, many of the newer finishes are tack dry in about 20 minutes, and they say to do subsequent coats within an hour, so that you're getting what I think of as a "wet bond"... no scuffing required. That's the first method.

But, then, the cans say that, if you have to wait longer to recoat, you then need to wait 48 hours for complete dryness, and then scuff a little before re-coating. That's the second method.

Guys like paintron, working in automotive and professional shops can optimize conditions, and recoating times. They can take advantage of the "wet bond"... us hacks...that have to work around work, animals, other commitments and such, usually have to scuff every once in a while; because we've had to let one coat dry past the wet bond state, while we're doing something else.

He's not even talking about "shops" from what I've gathered but purely OE and factory. He *will not* provide any product recommendations to back a lot of his claims up either...

No doubt his process is near perfect for those applications. I enjoy learning about new products and trying out new processes but everything has its caveats that need fleshed out before everyone just dives off the deep end. There are things to weigh out for any product or process change and I like to play devils advocate for the greater good of the community. Sometimes that comes off as pointless arguing but it is very good for others to see things looked at and debated through a different lens.

There's a lot to learn on this site but "stop scuffing" simply is not one of those things people should be taking away as a lesson.
 
The true chemical bonding ended when they quit making automotive paints out of lacquer. On lacquer you could spray a dried finish with lacquer thinner and it would get a little sticky again. The solvent re-wet's the old finish. Therefore when you put a coat of lacquer over and old one the solvents in it will cause them to melt together. With enamels and your rattle can paint there is a certain amount of chemical bond if one coat is applied over the other in a timely fashion. Still there isn't any reason you couldn't achieve a chemical bond and a mechanical bond both by painting in a timely fashion and scuff sanding too. The scratches made by the sandpaper will aid the bond.

I don't know how much I would read into factory paint on cars. They are pushing limits. They are stuck with trying to quickly get a product out the door and at the same time appease the environmental crackpots. In the end if you look around you see more and more fairly new cars with the paint pealing off of them. It used to be the only time you saw a failing paint job on a car was an old one or a bad paint job done by an individual.
 
Yeah, I know, as that's my general process. I'm trying to the the pro paint guy to describe a different, better process. Unsuccessfully, I might add.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top