Rustoleum vs. Krylon - Lowes New Brand

RTR

Well-known Member
Lowes stopped carrying rustoleum professional paint in the spray can, and I used to use their red oxide primer and their gray primer on the tractors I refurbish. I would typically sand them down with a good wire brush and Sandpaper, wipe down with cleaner, prime using rustoleum spray paint primer, and paint the tractor with a case IH ironguard paint with hardener using an HVLP Gun. I have always had great results using that primer, and had good results with it going down covering nice even coat

My question is, since Lowes quit carrying that brand they now carry Krylon as the replacement. Have any of you had experience using Krylon Professional primer in the spray can? I just bought some and tried it tonight on a clean metal surface and it seems to be very thin, and does not cover as well as the rustoleum. [/list]
 
I used Krylon on the bed,overhead rack and grille on my truck. It does go on thinner and takes several
coats to look goog. Time will tell it it holds up good. I got mine from ACE Hardware.

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(quoted from post at 10:13:22 02/06/19)
anyone else have any expierence with this?

No recent experience with either, but for what it costs to get a decent aerosol primer (these aren't, IMO) you are better off getting a cheap mini-gun and a quart of something that you can spray on a little thicker.

I've pretty much given up on aerosols all around due to the amount of effort they require to get something anywhere near a decent finish. Dragging out a mini-gun really isn't bad -- I'm guessing you use rattle cans to prime as you go and keep things covered?

Some company used to make a fillable aerosol bottle that you pressurized and mixed paint for yourself.
 
(quoted from post at 22:48:49 02/06/19)
(quoted from post at 10:13:22 02/06/19)
anyone else have any expierence with this?

No recent experience with either, but for what it costs to get a decent aerosol primer (these aren't, IMO) you are better off getting a cheap mini-gun and a quart of something that you can spray on a little thicker.

I've pretty much given up on aerosols all around due to the amount of effort they require to get something anywhere near a decent finish. Dragging out a mini-gun really isn't bad -- I'm guessing you use rattle cans to prime as you go and keep things covered?

Yes I do it as I go to keep bare metal covered and “clean” p

Some company used to make a fillable aerosol bottle that you pressurized and mixed paint for yourself.
 

To each his own, but if I could effectively lobby to get people to convert to the mini-gun idea, I certainly would!

I bet you'd have to mix enamel 2:1 (as in reducer:paint) to get it as thin as it is in those spray cans...and leave out hardener!
 
(quoted from post at 23:09:28 02/06/19)
To each his own, but if I could effectively lobby to get people to convert to the mini-gun idea, I certainly would!

I bet you'd have to mix enamel 2:1 (as in reducer:paint) to get it as thin as it is in those spray cans...and leave out hardener!

I just use the primer in the spray cans as I go. I paint using enamel with hardener and use an hvlp gun.
 
(quoted from post at 15:37:54 02/06/19)
(quoted from post at 23:09:28 02/06/19)
To each his own, but if I could effectively lobby to get people to convert to the mini-gun idea, I certainly would!

I bet you'd have to mix enamel 2:1 (as in reducer:paint) to get it as thin as it is in those spray cans...and leave out hardener!

I just use the primer in the spray cans as I go. I paint using enamel with hardener and use an hvlp gun.

Understood, that was just a wild guess/generalization regarding how thinned out products are in those containers.
 
I don't know if I am on subject here. BUT I am a rustoleum fan, there primers, rusty metal and there paints. Both spray and cans. I have tried several others and was not satisfied. (cheap imitation) I do like x o rust sold at true value stores. In some cases there is much better primers and paint in automotive paint systems and I use some of them. BUT I do not think we are comparing apples to apples.
 
(quoted from post at 09:25:56 02/07/19) I don't know if I am on subject here. BUT I am a rustoleum fan, there primers, rusty metal and there paints. Both spray and cans. I have tried several others and was not satisfied. (cheap imitation) I do like x o rust sold at true value stores. In some cases there is much better primers and paint in automotive paint systems and I use some of them. BUT I do not think we are comparing apples to apples.

You are right, comparing Rustoleum to something like Nason or the like is not necessarily an apples to apples comparison. Rustoleum fits the bill for the "best $30 paint you can buy" and is pretty reliable in that category and with those expectations. For spraying something like a trailer or something that is going to get beat to death, it's perfect.

For a tractor, unless TODAY'S BUDGET IS THE ONLY consideration, it should be avoided, IMO. If it is a machine that you have sunk 100 hours into clean up/prep, are going to have for another 30 years, or want to resell with a shiny paint job in 10, the comparison starts to become more apples to apples, too. That 5x budget that it might have taken just for the materials may not look like it would have been such a bad idea, now.

It's all epoxy primer and a minimum of acrylic enamel from here on. If I don't load up with synthetic/alkyd ever again, I'll be a happy man for years to come!

I've used Rustoleum primer as well, and can tell you from first hand experience that it doesn't offer the top coat gloss retention that a better primer does.
 
I've used Rustoleum primer as well, and can tell you from first hand experience that it doesn't offer the top coat gloss retention that a better primer does.

Just a thought......what if you put 2 coats of primer down and then sanded the rustoleum primer with something liken 600 or 800 grit ? Would that help the gloss or hurt?
 
(quoted from post at 16:53:24 02/07/19)
I've used Rustoleum primer as well, and can tell you from first hand experience that it doesn't offer the top coat gloss retention that a better primer does.

Just a thought......what if you put 2 coats of primer down and then sanded the rustoleum primer with something liken 600 or 800 grit ? Would that help the gloss or hurt?

Wild guess...

It would probably make it better, at least in the short term or in regard to that immediate difference in shine.

My logic on this one:

If it can be sanded then it has sat and cured out for quite a while. Now you are making a "new" mechanical surface for the paint to bond to rather than asking the primer to cure out from below the paint while still in the recoat window.
 
If you have an ACE HARDWARE close to you, might check with them. Walked by the paint rack in ours the other day and noticed some new cans of something they hadn't carried before.
 
Paint Is sold by volume, (gallon) and consumed via hiding strength. This gives the paint companies a real edge over the consumer, what real value are you getting.

All you need to do is what is called a contrast ratio test. You will need to purchase some contrast ratio charts black on top, white on the bottom and a drawdown bar. These items are inexpensive and can be purchased through the BYK Gardner Company. Simply draw your coating on the chart, air dry or you can force dry with a hair dryer. Now you can do a visual comparison between the two coatings on separate or even side by side on the same chart. If you want to get more sophisticated, where you buy your paint should have a spectrophotometer for measuring colour. These instruments have an setting for reading contrast ratio which the operator my not be aware of so you may have to educate them. Make sure you bring a blank along with the coated ones.

The bars come in different sizes, I would recommend a #36. Charts are either BYK or Leneta, ( I prefer BYK).
 
(quoted from post at 07:49:19 03/13/19) Paint Is sold by volume, (gallon) and consumed via hiding strength. This gives the paint companies a real edge over the consumer, what real value are you getting.

All you need to do is what is called a contrast ratio test. You will need to purchase some contrast ratio charts black on top, white on the bottom and a drawdown bar. These items are inexpensive and can be purchased through the BYK Gardner Company. Simply draw your coating on the chart, air dry or you can force dry with a hair dryer. Now you can do a visual comparison between the two coatings on separate or even side by side on the same chart. If you want to get more sophisticated, where you buy your paint should have a spectrophotometer for measuring colour. These instruments have an setting for reading contrast ratio which the operator my not be aware of so you may have to educate them. Make sure you bring a blank along with the coated ones.

The bars come in different sizes, I would recommend a #36. Charts are either BYK or Leneta, ( I prefer BYK).

I agree with this in part. However, the fact that different brands/qualities/grades of paint cover better than others is only part of the equation. Paint is also consumed according to its durability and when the job will need redone. The test you describe does nothing to tell us which paint will be more durable and in fact could very well be the inverse of that.

From a restoration standpoint, the longevity, gloss, and durability of the finish will weigh in much more heavily than the need for an extra coat for good coverage. In reality, the only color that I've frequented that likes to give me real issues with coverage is JD's yellow. Light color = poor hiding...synthetic enamel = poor hiding. A suitable finish can be made by using white or buff primer instead of gray, however it would be smarter to upgrade to a urethane based on durability alone. Once this happens, coverage comes naturally.
 
I'm aware of all the factors you mentioned, diploma in paint testing and manufacturing, however I'm not familiar with these commercially available aftermarket products.
Many of the tests you describe I have personally performed, been doing this for over forty years. In general the resin system system is more important than the
manufacturer. Most of these guys buy their raw materials from the same sources.

Not a big fan of what this forum describes as rattle can paint, assume this is what we refer to as spray bombs up here.

I'm like tractor's and the history behind them and would like to contribute what I can in an area I'm very familiar with. Don't want to step on any one's toes.
 
(quoted from post at 09:54:44 03/13/19) I'm aware of all the factors you mentioned, diploma in paint testing and manufacturing, however I'm not familiar with these commercially available aftermarket products.
Many of the tests you describe I have personally performed, been doing this for over forty years. In general the resin system system is more important than the
manufacturer. Most of these guys buy their raw materials from the same sources.

Not a big fan of what this forum describes as rattle can paint, assume this is what we refer to as spray bombs up here.

I'm like tractor's and the history behind them and would like to contribute what I can in an area I'm very familiar with. Don't want to step on any one's toes.

Yep, rattle cans = spray bombs = garbage.
 
I know many of this tractor loving crowd is also into trucks. Years ago I was an on-site service technician for the pre-treatment supplier on the painting process for Ford 100 series pickup trucks. One Friday BASF was the paint supplier for the e-coat primer and topcoat systems. Over the weekend they switched over to PPG who were now the e-coat primer and topcoat supplier. If you and friend were to go to a dealer and both buy identical trucks with the same colour made a few days apart who got the BASF and who got the PPG paint systems?
If you’re buying a reputable high quality coating and it is the same type of paint, you should be OK. This industry is so competitive you’re not going to see much difference in quality. I currently deal with 11 paint suppliers and we routinely seamlessly switch from one to another. My main concern as the lab guy is maintaining the colour consistency.
 
Most of the Rust-Oleum and tsc again paints are all alkyd enamel. Not a great paint but cheap. Adding a catalyst to the paint will improve shine and durability but it's still cheap paint.
The next step up would be a industrial enamel. The urethanes. Each step in quality and durability is a step in cost. If your going to own something for more than a few years and it will be in the sun a urethane paint is the way to go
 

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