CaseIH primer question

1sarge

Member
Location
NE Mississippi
Painting a Cub using CaseIH primer and 2150 paint. Sprayed some primer yesterday. The primer seems to have a lot of gloss to it this morning. Is this normal for this primer? This is my first time using this primer and not use to seeing this. I used some CaseIH rattle can primer on some small parts and it looks normal. I shot the primer heavy, could this be the reason? Thanks in advance for any help.
 
How well did you stir the primer? Primer has a binder in it which is like a varnish mixed with solids. If you didn't get all of the solids suspended into the primer you would have sprayed mostly varnish which would be glossy.
 
Thanks for the reply, I believe I had it mixed well or at least it appeared to be. I am thinking that it may need more drying time due to temp and humidity.
I have it my shop with heat right now.
 
Temperature and humidity can greatly affect the drying time of finishes. If you can press your thumb hard into the primer and leave a thumb print then it's not completely dry. If not, it's as dry as it's going to get.

Primers sometimes are difficult. Sometimes they sit so long on a store shelf it's very difficult to get them completely stirred. I had to thoroughly stir it before and let it sit overnight and then do it again before it mixes completely. Over time the binder and solids go to the bottom of the can and thicken and the longer they sit the harder it gets.
 
(quoted from post at 09:38:27 02/17/19) Painting a Cub using CaseIH primer and 2150 paint. Sprayed some primer yesterday. The primer seems to have a lot of gloss to it this morning. Is this normal for this primer? This is my first time using this primer and not use to seeing this. I used some CaseIH rattle can primer on some small parts and it looks normal. I shot the primer heavy, could this be the reason? Thanks in advance for any help.

Probably normal, yes.

You would know pretty easily if the settling being described above had occurred. You would feel it with the stirring stick and it would feel like the can had an uncooked pizza dough in the bottom of it. You can get it stirred back in with 15 minutes and patience, or you can shake the can by hand or with a shaker and speed things along. In fact, if you have time, you can just flip the can over and it will help it mix back into the liquid overnight.

Why are you waiting so long before top coating your primer? This is normally not advisable, however I do not know if that primer has a printed re-coat window on the label.
 

He mentioned that it is the Case IH product, so it is just a run of the mill enamel primer.

There CAN be a big difference between primers and sealers; We don't want to over-generalize. In fact "primer" is really just a general term for a range of products and "sealer" is a term for how some of these products can be appropriately used. For example epoxy primer is a suitable sealer as well as thinned urethane build primer.

Obviously there are purpose made/labeled sealers but they lean toward being the urethane primer with watered down build characteristics, in my experience. Most, if not all urethane primer is unsuitable for bare metal.
 

I just don't have the cojones to go out into the implement enamel shadows for paint. I stay safe with name brand product from my paint jobber. Just too much prep time at stake.
 
I do all of my painting with a brush but drying time and repaint window would be the same for the CaseIH primer or paint. For my if you are waiting until the next day for the next coat the first coat will be too dry. When I am painting small parts that means a full day of partial painting with some breaks between the coats. Two coats of primer with about 30 to 45 minutes between coats, then the first coat of CaseIH 2150 red 30 to 45 minutes after that. The second coat of red goes on when the parts are dry enough to handle. For my irregularly shaped implements parts I need to handle each piece when painting.
 

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