- Thread starter bass
- Start date
YES I have. I've actually been going on and on about it...
They have an ACRYLIC enamel line that seems to be a very good paint and is marginally more expensive than the alkyd you will find at the equipment dealers (ok maybe 50%+). Their IH color is supposed to be a match to 2150 and it covers very nicely, dries much faster, and is easy to get a good shine going. I do not have any long term results with it as of yet but in theory acrylic should be better than alkyd. I also have not done a side by side comparison with the dealer paint but plan to do a spray out of each and leave them out in the weather.
Based on how nicely it went on and such I am not going to hesitate to use it instead of the dealer paint on my projects. Anyone that has spoken about it being no good is referring to the cheap alkyd and...well what do you expect for $30/gallon paint ...
ptfarmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- San Antonio, Tx
Need to use the gloss hardener with it.
If the budget allows and it can be done safely, by all means. I won't touch anything without supplied clean air now that I have it, but urethane is some dangerous business if not handled properly.
Praise we see for the dealer paint is a bit silly, IMO. We have a 3020 that was done with JD's paint about 20 years ago and it has been chalked up for at least 10 years (good primer, hardener, and appropriate reducers were used).
IMO, even the best of the alkyds is a 10-12 year finish on a working machine (all of our machines are stored in sheds and do not sit outside unless doing field work). I feel as though alkyd never actually dries (even with a hardener added) and contaminants easily embed in it...think things like weed sprays and what not. These paints NEED to be cleaned and waxed very diligently.
I'd like to try some of the urethanes from equipmentcolor, but I don't like to buy without seeing sprayouts or color chips first. The shipping times might not be convenient either. I'm not sure what Nason or Omni run per gallon but they are undoubtedly some of the best options for restoration work. Again, these products will require a trip to a jobber rather than just popping to my local farm store for the VS acrylic enamel (which is more convenient than getting to the equipment dealers, fyi).
Listen, there are tons of "good enough" products out there, and you can spend the rest of your life debating color matches. My bet is that 90% of the people debating them can't spot a "reasonable" match from an "exact" match without a color card in hand...even then, who is to pick which one is correct at this point?
You absolutely need a good primer and a good film build. These guys spraying rustoleum primers followed by rattle cans from the dealer and going on about how good of a finish it is are just doling out terrible advice. Then you'll see the next guy come along and slam some brand because they used rattle cans and it didn't last...
I've yet to see someone speak lowly about the VS ACRYLIC enamel and provide any useful details about the job. Try it out, be a pioneer.
showcrop
Well-known Member
Yakob, funny you should mention Nason. I have been using their 2K urethane. I am no paint expert, but I find that it is easy to get a good looking job with it and that it holds up well too. The big thing is that it is a lot less money than the higher priced automotive paint.
I promote it here when someone is asking, and I always try to advise people to never put cheap paint over a fifty hour prep and never put expensive paint over a five hour prep.
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It's great stuff, no doubt. About what does a sprayable gallon typically cost?
Higher end paint is also more foolproof to apply, in my experience. Nason was actually the first product I ever sprayed, and that job turned out way nicer than my first JD enamel job...so "learning on something cheap" can be seen as a bit of a fallacy, imo. I do find getting a perfect looking finish out of some cheap implement paint to be somewhat of a rite of passage.
Nope, never. Took my Farmall H down to every piece, took it all apart, painted my Farmall H with the Van Sickle IH red, spray cans, and it went on perfect, smooth, no blemish, perfect. Color was sorta close to IH red, but I figured what the heck. Close enough. Took about a month or two, but every piece of it developed a white film, just sitting inside the barn. Not even out in the sun. Yuck. Had to repaint the entire tractor. Went to the Case-IH dealer and got real paint. Perfect.
What was your prep and primer for the VS rattle cans? What did you get at the IH dealer to re-do, rattle cans or real paint?
For what it's worth, I'm not trying to start arguments or anything. It really seems as though people come in and slam VS then bail without discussing any further details. Without some more details, the complaint doesn't help us much, in my opinion. For instance, if someone's process is: power wash, wipe down with gasoline, then apply paint with no primer in 60 degree weather, we can't really hold the paint responsible. I'm in no way accusing you of doing this, but it is important to know.
On the one hand, yeah, you used rattle cans from a cheap line of paint ("rustoleum grade"), what did you expect? On the other hand, even for a rattle can finish if done properly, what you had happen wasn't acceptable.
We have implement wheels that were squirted with one of VS shades of white (alkyd) and I have done some small parts in their black (alkyd). None of this stuff shows issues to this day, even with sun exposure, and DEFINITELY didn't show it within months like you are describing.
I have only used their acrylic line for IH red. While I have not seen 10+ or even 5+ years out of it yet, I can definitely say that it also did not go through what you are describing and seemed to me to be fantastic paint. When I was considering using this paint, I grabbed a quart to check the color first. I didn't use any hardener or anything for my test. I just smeared some on the handle for my floor jack after a light sanding. 3 years in with essentially no prep work, loads of contaminated hands touching it, and it looks just like that first day.
I don't use rattle cans. The cost of them is too much compared to buying quarts and mixing to spray through a mini-gun for small parts and getting a better film build/ability to add hardener.
showcrop
Well-known Member
I took this picture of my friend's H last year:
Some fifteen years ago the local FHA group took it and restored it for their annual project. It sits outdoors year round, but I would have thought that the paint would have held up better. I have not asked what they used, but I think that it is worth paying a little extra for good paint if you want a job to look good for a few years.
That's rough. That's also about what things look like after being rattle-canned if they sit out. The sun just burns through it in no time at all. I'm wondering if this is what they did..
I see pics in forums of guys that spent a lot of time on a project and then spray-bombed it and "it looks great!" Yeah...with 10+ coats maybe you'll get some film build. At that point you've probably spent more on the spray cans than on a decent gun and gallons and still don't have any hardener!
I removed the old rust and old paint various ways, grinders, wire brush, sandpaper, elbow grease. I spray primed various rattle cans of primer, some brown, some red, whatever I could find. I took particular care to paint in good conditions, warm, dry outside still air. I think I put on several coats. I really liked the way the VS went on, I'll give them credit for that. Color turned out to be weird, to be honest. I thought VS developed some red color, sat around an thought, til somebody said "I know, let's call it IH Red!" I subsequently went to the Case-IHC dealer, got advised by my favorite old timer guy to use some number like B-74556 or some such, and just sprayed it over the VS. Turned out perfect. Has not turned white or filmy or faded or anything in 5 or 6 years. Kept inside the barn, unheated. Perfect.
So to be clear for everyone else, you:
1. used whatever primer you could get your hands on of various varieties and colors
2. "think" you put on several coats
3. had every chance leading up to this to decide if you liked the color in the first place
What I'm getting at is: your specific personal experience with it does not seem to be evidence for anything but their rattle can paint being garbage, if even that. Most people aren't going to spend that kind of time and effort on a project and then coat it in rattle can paint in the first place.
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