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Phosphoric acid

Would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1546902126&sr=8-5&keywords=ospho
 
Or would this be better?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C02CDG/ref=sxts_kp_tr_2?pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=Nr1zl&pf_rd_r=V4ZD6ZE8WCCR7BRARB66&pd_rd_i=B000C02CDG&pd_rd_w=SejiO&pd_rd_r=80193433-d4b0-4bb5-a112-4fc7e70d4d7a&ie=UTF8&qid=1546902126&sr=2
 
We get in 55 gallon drums at work to clean
heat exchangers so some follows me home but
I have seen it at the local ace hardware.
 

I think "what are you trying to do?" is relevant to helping with which product would work. Some are meant to scrub away and dissolve rust, others are meant to allegedly seal heavier rust, others are meant to etch a freshly blasted/cleaned surface as a "conversion coating."

I don't have loads of experience with any of them mostly due to being a believer in full rust removal followed by epoxy primer.
 
(quoted from post at 10:54:00 01/08/19) What do you use for a brand of epoxy primer do you use?
Thanks
Click to expand...

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/kirker-enduro-prime-epoxy-primer-p-12620.aspx
 
Best bang for the buck is Omni brand epoxy , an economy line of PPG which is the best. It is not for rust, it is to promote the best adhesion of primer and/or topcoat to clean bare metal. You do NOT use metal treatment under it. Over a fresh blasted or clean sanded surface , nothing better.
 
Is It better to spray epoxy then use body filler or the other way around? Also i'v been reading and some people use epoxy then body filler then more primer is this necessary? or can I use body filler on small dents and prime with epoxy then paint?
 
(quoted from post at 20:36:40 01/08/19) Is It better to spray epoxy then use body filler or the other way around? Also i'v been reading and some people use epoxy then body filler then more primer is this necessary? or can I use body filler on small dents and prime with epoxy then paint?
Click to expand...


ABSOLUTELY take care of the rust before using filler. The phosphoric is necessary to get the little residual rust down in the pits after you think that you got it all with abrasive disc or wire wheel. Epoxy or filler first can go either way. Most fillers now are formulated as DTM (direct to metal) meaning a primer is not needed. So it depends on your confidence in how good a rust removal job you did. If you cover completely first with epoxy, you will end up removing a lot of it during your sanding of filler, but having it under the filler is extra insurance against getting rust under the filler.
 
(quoted from post at 22:04:09 01/08/19) Best bang for the buck is Omni brand epoxy , an economy line of PPG which is the best. It is not for rust, it is to promote the best adhesion of primer and/or topcoat to clean bare metal. You do NOT use metal treatment under it. Over a fresh blasted or clean sanded surface , nothing better.
Click to expand...

MP170? What does it cost? Looks like it has an induction time.

I've never used it, but have used the Nason equivalent. The Enduro Prime is cheaper and easier to use 'properly' without the induction time needed...the Nason also seemed to take longer to dry but of course you can only be so scientific with your environment changing from day to day a bit.
 
Last I bought was Keen strip brand prep and etch
from Home depot.

Have used the stuff from POR 15 as well.... metal
ready?
 
Coca cola, main ingredient is phosphoric acid.

Phosphoric acid will give a iron phosphate coating on steel. If you looking for a the gold standard for corrosion resistance you need to use zinc phosphate. This is sold by the Henkel company and a few others.

I going to put together a procedure, that is easy to use for the home hobbyist in the next few days. There is a few tricks, but quite simple.

I formally was employed by Henkel, then called Parker-Amchem, as service technician at a assembly plant to set up a reverse onus system, which was very successful.
 
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