Couple of Base/Clear Questions

Inno · Mar 11, 2011

Figured I'd start a new post for this one so as not to hijack one already in progress.

I'm finishing a 2 month body job on my 1998 Silverado extended cab. It's in two part primer right now and I'll be blocking the primer this weekend and hopefully get it sprayed as well.......we'll see. It's Martin Senour Crossfire platinum base with Finish 1 clear over Martin Senour 2k primer.
I did the tailgate last night as practice and got a few runs in the clear, my plan is to block it with 1500 to remove the runs then 2000 to remove any fine scratches, then either buff it or spray one more coat of clear. Does this sound right?

Also, what do the pros do when they have to paint a roof on a fairly tall extended cab pickup? I'm thinking a ladder but that is going to make smooth passes with the gun difficult. Any ideas?

glennster · Mar 11, 2011

the runs in the clear should buff out fine, just be sure the clear is dry. we bake in a spray booth, and still wait 24 hrs after baking before buffing. as far as the roof, we have benches to get up on the truck roofs. you can set up some temporary scaffold to get up top, just dont drag the air hose across the roof.

RandyB(MI) · Mar 11, 2011

Just my $.02 , you seem to be somewhat inexperienced in painting a complete truck so I would advise one little change of your process. Go ahead and base coat everything. Then section off the truck in three sections , front clip , top/cab , box and bag off and clear in three sections with a day (or more) dry time in between. You can use a quicker drying catylist/reducer and control your work a lot better. Less runs and less dirt which means less sanding and buffing after. It will be just as quick and a better job. If you paint the complete truck at one time you will need a slow dry catylist/reducer to allow for overspray melt in , especially if you are less experienced and can't just "race' around it like you have done it a million times. Sanding and buffing is a band-aid and you will more than likely still see the "worms" where the runs were even if you block sand them out. Show cars don't get painted "all in one" for a many reasons , that is one of them. Just suppose you had painted it all the day you did the tailgate? 'Nuf said?

Inno · Mar 11, 2011

Yes, actually very inexperienced. I take advice well though and appreciate the help. I did prime the box off the truck and was considering painting it separate as well.
This method definitely makes a lot of sense to me being as how the box is already off and the front clip is very easy to mask off by itself.
I do have fast reducer for the base and fast hardener for the clear as it was recommended by the store I bought the supplies at.
In thinking about it I might go one step further and do the roof all by itself so I'm not risking dragging an air hose across a freshly cleared door on the 2nd coat. It'll be easy as there is a joint filler at the back of the cab.
Thank you for the advise, it puts my mind at ease as I was concerned as to just how I was going to get it done properly.

RandyB(MI) · Mar 12, 2011

Good idea on the roof panel. Was going to suggest that but didn't know whether it had a good "break point" to go to or not. You should do well. Good Luck. RB

Couple of Base/Clear Questions

Inno

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glennster

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RandyB(MI)

Well-known Member

Inno

Well-known Member

RandyB(MI)

Well-known Member