Hey Glennster!

PhilC · May 22, 2008

Tried to send you a PM but that feature doesn't work and your email isn't listed in your profile, so had to try to contact you this way. I've redone a grille and hood for a Farmall Super M and will be spraying it this weekend with Case Iron Gard enamel. Got any tips? I don't work with alkyd enamels and have never sprayed any (wouldn't be doing it on this one if it were up to me).

I tried to find tech sheets on this stuff, but there doesn't seem to be any out there. I'll be shooting it with my Devilbiss GTi and don't know which fluid tip I should use. I'm leaning toward a 1.5 but I also have the 1.4 and 1.3 (both of which might be too small).

I tried to convince the owner to go with a single stage urethane, but he's just doing this to sell the tractor, so, "old school" paint it will be. :roll:

Thanks for any tips! 8)

glennster · May 23, 2008

i'd try the 1.4 or 1.5 tip. when you reduce(thin) the aklyds, stir well and add a little at a time. generally less than 10% reduction. it will seem too thick then all of a sudden....oppps too thin. as far as applying, i go with a tack coat first, just enough to get some color on it, not too thick and let it tack off. then apply your second coat, lay it on heavy (but not enough to run) alkyd builds quick and does have a tendency to run and sag if its too heavy. 2 to 3 coats should cover it fine. the final coat put on wet to get a good gloss. if you have the hardener, i would use it, it does help the paint set quicker and gives a nicer shine. try and practice on a scrap piece of metal to get dialed in, once you get the feel for the material, its pretty easy to shoot.

PhilC · May 23, 2008

Thanks for the tips, they're almost word for word as those my boss gave me this afternoon, right down to the piece of scrap metal for a test panel. :lol:

I had already planned on using a test panel, have a couple old hoods and a crew cab roof section out back in the recycle pile. I was trying to recall the process my dad used, but that's waaaay too many years ago now.

No hardener, so I'll have to do the best I can without it. The instructions on the can say mix up to 1 part reducer to 8 parts paint. I figure that should be a good starting point for the test panel. :wink:

Thanks again!

PhilC · May 26, 2008

Well, it's done. Not as flat as I would have liked, but not too bad either. Here's a shot of the grille section, there wasn't a single straight bar on it, and something had been dropped, hard, on the crown of the hood either side of the center rib. Far from perfect, but a whole lot better than what I started with. :wink:

The owner will be happy and that's all that matters. 8)

PhilC · May 26, 2008

Got an extra space in the previous post, but I can't edit my post... :roll:

glennster · May 27, 2008

phil, ya done good!!! came out real nice. the alkyd paints are not a bad product for a working girl tractor, easy to apply, pretty forgiving as far as mistakes, and about the lowest cost for materials out there.

PhilC · May 27, 2008

Thanks Glen, I'm pretty good at what I do, but haven't done any tractor stuff until now. It's just sheet metal, right? :wink:

I've got the parts at home now and the owner is supposed to drop off the decals for me to put on then I'll deliver them to him. That way, if anything happens to them, it will be [b:5147802da3][i:5147802da3]after[/i:5147802da3][/b:5147802da3] they're at his place. 8)

I'll snap a few pics after the decals are on and before I load them up, I get better image quality with my digital camera vs the one at work.

GordoSD · May 29, 2008

When you say final coat put on wet, do you mean to add just a tad of reducer to the paint, or just apply a full coat quite quickly?

Gordo

glennster · May 29, 2008

apply the last coat heavy and wet, dont reduce it. kind of tricky to get used to it without running it, but it will flow out nice and have a good finish, very little orange peel, mirror like shine.

Hey Glennster!

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