Long 2610 needs to be bled periodically

I've got a Long 2610, 4 cyl diesel, and it normally runs fine but in the last year after sitting for 2-3 weeks I've had problems getting it started and had to bleed it. The last time was this morning, I started at the injector pump and there was no air in the pump but when I cracked open the injectors I saw some bubbles. Once I got that bled out it ran fine, I used it about 5 hours with no problems. This is the 2nd time in the last year it's done it. Sometimes it can sit for a couple of weeks and be fine. I don't know if it's worse when it's cold but I'm in NE TX so it's not THAT cold.

Do you guys have any idea why I'm getting air in the injector lines when it's sitting? This morning it fired for about 5 seconds then wouldn't run again until I bled the injectors. Luckily I'm getting pretty good at it but it gets old when I'm in a hurry to do something and have to bleed it first.

Thanks,
Kerry

Check all the filter base fittings, you MAY have a plugged bleed orifice bolt on a filter base like MF/Perkins has. They use a bleed bolt/fitting to keep air out of the filter base BEFORE it can get into injection pump inlet. It normally goes back to tank, or reservoir for the manifold heater, and when it plugs air WILL go to injection pump and cause engine shut down. Worth a look..

I'll look for that, thanks. I remember a bolt going through the fuel filter with a hole in it but I don't remember a line going back to the tank or anywhere. It may be there and I might have just missed it. I did change both filters last year when I had to bleed it, it is the bolt going vertically through the filter that holds the bowl on the bottom of the filter?

Thanks for the info, I'll check it out in the daylight Wed. afternoon or Thursday.

Kerry

Dieseltech,

I'm attaching 2 pictures, the bottom filter is the first one coming from the fuel pump, the top one is the second filter. There's a fitting on top of the top filter with a hose that goes back to the tank, is that where I need to look?

There's also a small round thing behind that filter that looks like it comes from the #4 injector then back to the tank, is that some kind of check valve or something to recirculate excess fuel? Also, I never paid any attention to it before but there are 2 lines from this filter to the injector pump, one to the front an one to the back of the injector pump. What does that line going to the front of the injector pump do?

One more thing, when I pump the handle on the fuel pump I don't feel any resistance. I know it's at least working some because I can use it to bleed the port on the injector pump but our on the old tractor I could feel some resistance. This one feels like the engine is in the wrong place for the pump to work, even if I push it all the way to the bottom I don't feel anything and if I push it while the engine is running I don't feel any pulsing on the handle. Does this mean there's a problem with the pump?

If that top bolt/fitting is what you're talking about I'll dig into it. It ran fine today, so far... If I'm going to take that top filter apart I probably need to find the o-rings first so I can replace them while I have it apart.

Thanks,
Kerry

The top filter has what looks like the banjo orifice bolt similar to MF/Perkins, remove it and see if there's a very small hole just above the threads. Make sure it's open. The front injection pump line is the return back to the filter for recirculation. The small can behind the filter looks like the Thermostart fuel reservoir, usually there's three lines to it. A fill line, usually from filter and/or injector leak off, an out line back to tank, and a supply line to the Thermostart intake heater. The supply pump hand lever MAY or MAY NOT have resistance, depends on where the engine cam lobe inside is stopped. When it holds the internal lever away from cam centerline the hand lever won't do anything. Bumping the engine over a bit will move the internal lever so the hand lever will work.