1850 D clutch

So the feeding tractor is having some clutch issues. Some years ago when the clutch was last changed it was making metallic rattling noises as well as feeling weak and ultimately your could smell and feel it slipping. I ordered up a HY Capacity clutch kit and installed it so the tractor got a complete new pressure plate, button clutch and throw out bearing.

Currently the clutch feels slow to engage and will slip when in higher gears but I do not hear any noises or smell any burning. The pedal feels pretty good but I am almost maxxed out on adjustment. DOES BEING MAXXED OUT ON ADJUSTMENT MEAN THE PRESSURE PLATE IS WORN OUT AS WELL OR IS IT JUST THE CLUTCH PLATE?

My question is SHOULD YOU ALWAYS CHANGE THE PRESSUREPLATE AND THROWOUT BEARING WHEN DOING A CLUTCH or are there times when just doing the clutch ok? Last time my pressure plate was very worn with the springs very loose and they were obviously the source of the rattle sounds I was hearing, this time everything sounds fine but the clutch is slipping when I put a load against the tractor. It is still working every day I just am keeping it in 3rd or 4th and using Low range when starting out.

I need to order parts soon and there is about $400 difference between the HY Cap kit and just a clutch plate up here in the far north.

When you say almost maxed out on adjustment I assume you mean no freeplay? On a 4 digit Oliver I cant imagine running out of adjustment no matter how worn out your clutch is as long as fingers were set to correct dimension when you put the last clutch in? ( assume you have the 3 finger clutch and not the diaphram style) I assume you have the clevis pin for clutch rod in the lower hole in arm not top hole right? If by chance you have no freeplay and havent for a while then it could be slightly disengaging clutch? If this is the case take the clevis pin out of the clutch arm and see if arm has pressure pushing on it from the pressure plate being partly depressed. If this happens to be the case then you should be able to modify the length of clutch rod somehow to get some freeplay back? Other thought is do you have a bad rear seal and clutch is getting an oil bath??

just realized I didnt answer your question! My answer is no you dont always need to change the pressure plate, but pretty hard to tell what you need to order until you tear it apart. other thing to look at if you end up having to tear it down is the flywheel face condition. Last clutch I did was on a 2-70 and there was a bit of a step in the face otherwise it cleaned up good with some emery cloth, but the new clutch disc was slightly larger causing less than ideal surface contact so I had to send in for refacing. If you have to have resurfaced and the surface that the pressure plate bolts to is not on the same plane ensure the machine shop machines the higher surface as well as the clutch face surface to maintain the correct distance or you may have a new clutch slipping from the get go!

What I meant was that I cant seem adjust the clutch much more to make it feel like a proper feeling pedal. I played with it again today and swapped clutch link from the top hole to the lower on the clutch bar. It feels better but my knee is up pretty high. I have about 3/4 to 1 of free play. What I noticed is that the clutch arm was kind of sloppy coming out of the bell housing. Feels like it could use a bushing in there to take up the slop. When I installed the clutch last time I remember that the clutch arm at rest was more or less sitting straight up, now it cants forward at about 11:00.

woven clutch sometimes you can just replace the plate. With a button type i thought always replace pressure plate and surface the flywheel. Guy I worked for didn't and it wouldn't pull itself out of the shop.

When I replace a clutch disc, it almost ALWAYS gets a pressure plate too. On top of that get the flywheel surfaced so its flat also. Also, I always change the pilot and throwout bearings, even if they are only a couple months old because it's cheap insurance. If I remember correctly, some of the kits came with washers to use as spacers if you had a flat flywheel, which I THINK the perkins was a stepped flywheel and you didn't use them. Although, if you put them in then you won't have the plate load and it'll slip quicker. Also, most button clutches won't smell near as much as a woven clutch when they slip, so you can't just go off of that.

Do you have an I&T manual so you can see how to adjust the pressure plate?

yes, I do. I ordered a Hy Cap kit today. If I need a new pressure plate I will use it. If not it will go on the parts shelf.

Sadly the increase in parts prices may make that cheap insurance mantra harder to justify especially if things keep going up. I guess its still cheaper than interest on
a new tractor loan.