White 2-135 Power Steering cylinder removal

Hi Everyone
The arm which the tie rods connect to in the center of the 2-135 broke. We were able to get a used arm assembly but have to take the power steering cylinder apart to replace the arm.
It has a casting mounted to the tub which holds the engine and the vertical shaft passes through this casting with needle bearings in the bottom piece.

Since the arm broke where it wraps around the shaft when we removed the cap on the top of the cylinder and bolt to withdraw the gear the shaft came out the bottom.
But to complete the repair we have to remove the cylinder and to replace the shaft and line up the marks on the gear and piston in the cylinder. To do that we need to remove the harmonic balancer.

This is what my question is about. Does anyone have suggestions or comments on ways to remove the harmonic balancer. I know it will require a puller bolted to the balancer once the bolt and locking tab is removed. But we want to make sure to NOT damage this balancer. Also, can it be replaced without changing the oil seal in the camshaft cover?
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. We do have a shop service manual for this tractor but someone with experience is always an asset too.
Thanks in advance

You need to call Glen at Welters farm
supply, Verona, mo
I helped father in law and crew pull the
one of of the 2-105.
Glenn guided us the right way, and it was
a long haul.
GG Wes
417-498-6496, Lois will probably answer.

Thank you for that advice. I suspected it wasn't as straight forward as it first appears. I don't want to mess anything up with that balancer.

Say hi to cousin Lois.

They are certainly some awesome folks. I visited her Tuesday about the o rings on my 880
Hydraulic base. GG Wes

Well success!
An update on removing and replacing the harmonic balancer on the 1-135 White

As with most things they don't always go as expected. When we removed the retaining bolt which holds the balancer onto the crankshaft the threads on the bolt were pretty much stripped. It would appear that someone previously has used the bolt and probably an impact to push the balancer onto the crank and stripped the threads almost completely on the bolt.
We had to order another bolt and used a 1-inch NF 14 TPI special tap to clean up the threads in the end of the crankshaft. A nerve-wracking experience but it worked. The replacement bolt threaded into the crank smoothly but not too tight.
Then after cleaning everything up inside the balancer as well as the threaded end of the crank we put a 1-inch NF 14 TPI into the end of the crank well seated back in the bore.
Aligning the balancer with the key in the crank and using a couple nuts and washers/spacers it drew the balancer back onto the crank without further problems.
So not an easy job but done carefully it was successful.
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. They are appreciated and perhaps this info will prove helpful to someone else sometime.

Just a final update.
Got everything back together with the steering cylinder and gear properly aligned new tie rod ends and front wheels aligned as well. It steers so much better and turns equally in either direction.
We didn't have to reseal anything as all seals weren't leaking and haven't leaked since reassembly so hopefully luck will continue.
Since we had the radiator off we had it professionally cleaned and tested before we put it back on as preventative maintenance.
Thank you to everyone for your help.