Oliver 1955 smoke/sharp exhaust

Cash4Toys

Member
Completely rebuilt 310T, all the updates, all rotating parts balanced, crank blue printed no holds barred in this. Injection pump was completely rebuilt, except for the head in the pump which was good and well with in specs. New injectors. Has about 15 hours on it, plowing heavy clay with 5 year old alfalfa, and did very well.
At 720 rpm it runs perfect, and over 875 it runs perfect, or sounds like it anyway, and no smoke. In between, increasing the rpm, it will smoke a little and the exhaust is very sharp, possibly a miss but maybe just each fire more prominent. But, if you take it up to 900 or higher, and let it run a few minutes or so there, then decrease the rpm to between 720 & 875, it wont repeat the symptom for 3-4 minutes. This one is timed at 1 BTDC. Anyone have any thoughts as to why? Is there a scenario in the pump advance or fuel preasure in the pump that can cause this?
 
Hello Cash4Toys how have you been? So I am wondering if your problem is in the pump. Maybe something with the advance or the size of the plungers. I would get in touch with Dieseltech and give him the number off your pump. He can tell you if it is correct for your tractor or the specs for it atleast. You never know it could have been changed at some point in its life. Where did you get your injectors from? I wonder also if you have one that could be alittle lazy at that rpm. I am not sure just throwing out suggestions. What did you do for a camshaft when you rebuilt the engine? Is it the original?
 
Original cam, had it and the lifters re-ground by a very reputable company. Injection pump was also rebuilt by a company thats been around as long as i can remember. Pump matches what it is supposed to be, and they had all of the specs on it and i had them set it 10% over. Injectors came from them as well, cost me a little more but their someone i trust. The person there thats the sharpest, happens to be out for a while, so I have not had the chance to ask them their thoughts on this. In an old post, from like 2016, there was some disscussion about this, but could not find the resolve.
 
I still am leaning towards something with the pump. Who knows it could be the wonderful fuel we are getting now aways!
 
Okay. it reminds me of the 4,5 and 900 Case we had at home. Those rotary pumps would, at certain rpm and medium to light load would always get that popping, missfire, do you know what i mean by that? The 400 cultivating was the worst. Dad changed all three to the inline pump, never heard them do it again.
I'll talk to Diesel Components as they worked the pump and see what they say. Problem is, they do pump, injection and turbo work, but never see them on a running machine.
 
Howdy!
I'm not an expert by any means, but first thing I would check would be the supply pump. I had a situation where my '88 diesel was extremely hard to start when warm. After several weeks of learning about and adjusting the injector pump, I was convinced the inj pump needed to be rebuilt/replaced.

Before I got around to that, one day I started and ran it about a mile down the gravel road as I always did, it started missing and I barely made it home before it stopped and wouldn't restart. So I started from scratch and cleaned the fuel system and tried to bleed the air out of it. No fuel to the injector pump, then found no fuel at the final fuel filter. Then found the inline electrical pump was not working at all. The electrical lead between the battery and the electric pump was broken and it had been that way since I got it, I believe.

I had been starting and driving it for a nearly 3 months and it ran well except for hard starting! After rewiring the supply pump, it now starts in about 2 seconds, even better than my 7.3 liter Ford diesel, and runs great down the road.

Makes me think your problem could be as simple as mine. Maybe your missing is caused by low or no pressure to the injector pump, which causes missing at certain rpms, but then the injector pump at the higher rpm so to speak reprimes or self primes the system and it runs well for awhile?? Worth a look I think!
 
Yes I know what you mean by that popping sound. Thats the hard part about pump shops is they can put them on a test bench but never get to see them in the field. Do you run any type of fuel additive or conditioner?
 
i do for algae, ran into that issue one time.
Diesel with animal fat, not good. This thing starts as soon as you hit the key. Had it on a 22' disc today and it runs like it should, pulls good, no feul issues. That darn popping sharp exhaust in those rpm i stated is the only issue. Dont know if i should recheck my valves, timing or, who knows. Just fimished painting cause everthing seemed fine and now this.
What a pain in the butt to to get at the valve cover, hood, air cleaner, grrrr.
How else can i find #1 TDC? Can i pull the the 2 screw cover off the pump, rotate till the pump marks align and then check the marks on the flywheel?
Is there a way to check it with a light by running? So dissapointed.
 
You may want to recheck your valve lash now that you have some hours on the engine. I pull the timming window off the pump line up the two marks and then check if the mark on the flywheel, lines up to with the pointer in the bellhousing. Yes it is a pain to get the valve cover off with all the other things in the way, especially if everything is freshly painted. What type of muffler are you running? I have noticed the cheap after market ones give a different sound then an original. Almost like a flutter sometimes.
 
Funny you should bring that up. What I did was,I had a 3.5 straight pipe made up, to get a throatier sound out of it, and it sounds nice being a turbo, not real load when turbo is feeding it, that is with some boost. I put the stock muffler back on it later this afternoon, and now you cant notice the pronouced sharp crack, but the smoke is still their. With the muffler they just kind of purr, pretty quiet actually. Maybe its all for nothing, I just dont know now.
Guess i'll ponder pulling the cover and check everything over.
 
How many hours are on the rebuilt engine? How did you break it in on a dyno? Could the smoke be oil getting past the rings at that rpm. Maibach's engine kits have a different break in procedure than most others.

I know about the different sounding muffler because the I bought a brand new after market one for the 1800 we restored, you know its got to look good. Amyway I put the old rusty and original on the 1800 we use. They sound completely different. I re-adjusted the valves twice on the good painted tractor trying to get rid of the flutter sound. Talk about aggravated!
 
I was only able to have it on a dyno for the first 1.5 hours, dyno went the heck on us.
Then i put it on 4-16 plow, and plowed down 22 acres of alfalfa, in hard pulling heavy clay.
I would change up how hard i would make it labor, downshift and let it have easy, to working it for all it had. We have some tough ground around here, i had to put 2 stack slabs on it and 2 of the outer slabs on too keep the front end on the ground. Since then, it really has not been used. I dont believe its oil, its black smoke, at 720, no smoke at all, and over mid 900 no smoke. Even a colder start, say 50, when first start, just a few seconds of not clean burning smoke
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top