Removing hydraulic filter on 1750, 1850 and 1950

MikeO-WI

Member
I guess I should add my 2150 also. Tried today to remove and change the hydraulic filter on the 1850 I purchased last year. I found an 1 5/8 socket to be too small (didn't go all the way on) and 1 3/4 to be very loose fitting. When I went to remove it, it wouldn't budge. Have this same issue with my 1950 and haven't gotten that one changed yet either. Does anyone have any ideas on how to break this loose with damaging it? I can put a large pipe wrench on the body and try to stand on both the pipe wrench and the 3/4 breaker bar but I really need the 1850 and don't want to create more work than needed. Does it make sense to heat the cast where it threads in? I guess the other question is whether this part is indestructible or not. I will be putting some anti-seize on the threads when it goes back together.
 
They can be a challenge to remove they take a 1-11/16 socket. You will probably have to put a little heat to help break it loose. 3/4 drive ratchet with a pipe to give you more leverage.
 
I was going to ask if using my impact wrench would be an option. I have seen my share of busted cast already.
 
I ran into that problem with the 2-70 I bought 5 or 6 years ago. Seemed like that filter hadn't been changed in a while. To make things worse that cast hex nut was all chewed up and rounded off so the right size socket wouldn't hold. It was worn enough that a 12 pt. socket one size too small would drive on, but the points on the nut were too rounded to hold. Even with a moderate amount of torch heat applied, the socket wouldn't hold enough to break it loose. So I took a flat sided socket, one size too small, and ground the flats on the hex nut enough so I could drive the socket all the way on. This played out over time, and I'm soaking it with PB Blaster the whole while. The flat sided socket held, but even with 5 foot pipe on a 3/4 drive, I had to get my neighbor, who runs 250-300 lbs. to come over. With two of us together on the five foot pipe it finally let loose. It was well coated with Never-seize when it went back together. Don't know if this helps any, but that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
 
I hate to show my stupidly, but what is a flat sided socket?

Could it be a screw driver type for tie rod ends?

This post was edited by J.Wondergem on 05/09/2022 at 06:05 am.
 
Sorry about that. It's just my simple minded name for what most people call a six point socket. Six points or notches, with a straight or flat surface in between that follows the surface of the hex nut. As
opposed to the 12 point sockets where the whole circumference of the socket is notches. Sorry for the confusion, I should have been clearer.
 

OK. Thanks. I got to thinking about the blade type for tie rods, and figured that sure wont work because they're not strong. Mine has been broke off years ago.
 

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