antifeeze/coolant

cb

I am no water expert, however, distilled may be too "pure" and leach material from the metals. Demineralized is what I was taught and is backed up with decades of lab analysis. Your engine, your choice.

D.
 
Soft water is advised over hard water, but generally the amounts of ions involved is chicken feed. The choices of antifreeze are generally
between glycol and alcohols. Glycols need buffering, due to possible acidity developing with age, and alcohols tend to be volatile, so evaporate.


Biggest problem, I suspect, is likely that of combustion gases entering the cooling system and causing corrosion, these days.


First question might be does the machine reside in a frost zone? If not, a buffered water coolant is likely perfectly satisfactory - remember these
engines are cast iron, not of mixed-metal construction (piston material does not count). Glycol antifreeze is the more popular choice but is very
toxic. I most certainly would not be ‘sucked-in’ to purchasing specialised modern engine coolant solutions for a middle of the last century
technology engine.
 
Traditional green is still good. Farm stores still sell it, usually. Just don't try to find traditional green at Wal-Mart. They sell an all-makes, all-models which is really nothing more than Dex-Cool. John Deere sells their Cool-Gard II which is also an excellent anti-freeze.
 
I guess I'm not fussy enough. I use the green store brand stuff with well water in everything I have.
 
use a general purpose, some brands are specific and eat head gaskets...the red GMC brand did that in late 1900's motors.

I don't know if I have an odd ball 1850 or if Oliver designed them all this way, but I threw a fan blade into the rad, everything came to a screeching halt. After straightening it out the rad was leaking badly. Only a 1/4 mile from home I decided to limp it back. To my surprise the temp dropped as I drove almost as if as long as you moved along the rad wasn't needed.

It did cost a bit to get it rebuilt, new wasn't possible. Use a good anti freeze.
 

Deionized water is what is used in all the pre-mix coolants sold by Deere, CaseIH etc. In the
process the water is also distilled. The additive package in a good grade of coolant will give
you the proper protection when mixed with distilled water. No need to be concerned about the
distilled water removing material from parts of the engine. BUT, this does not necessarily have
the proper additive package that is being used to control and reduce cavitation in diesel engine.

And well water, that is a different subject all together. Some may very well be fine while other
well water will plug or consume parts of radiators, water pumps, and engines. There is an area
about 20 miles from here where the use of well water literally eats up the aluminum or pot metal
parts in short order. I have no idea what the water contains but have seen what it does to water
pumps, water headers etc in short order.
 

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