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1950T and 1750 3spd

M

matthies

Well-known Member
Friend replaced his clutch on the 1750, while it was apart the hydra shift output shaft was bad so he exchanged it(the whole assembly) with the one from a 1950T he retired a few years ago. So now if he adjusts the free travel in the clutch pedal to where it should be, he can stop the tractor with the brakes in direct over or under. And if he takes out the free travel the tractor pulls like it should, but then can't change gears without grinding. He did get a new hub and pto shaft from A&I and assume he got the clutch from them also. The throwout bearing is the same size he says, he also had to change the throwout shaft/lever from one to the other.
 

What do you mean, "he can stop the tractor with the brakes?" Is that not what he wants? Adjust free play, push in the clutch and apply the brakes and the tractor stops? or do you mean something different?
 
A new clutch off the internet mated to an old pressure plate isn't always a good idea. I got one for my 1550 a few years ago, should have know better and just taken everything to Clutch Dynamics, but I didn't. I had to weld a nut to the end of the clevis on the linkage rod to get that one so it would disengage.

On the flip side, I put a new one in the 1600 last Saturday. I had Dan build a new six button clutch, get a new pressure plate and resurface the flywheel then set it all up. That one shifts smooth as butter now. No grinding in low or direct, plenty of linkage there to adjust later on.

I don't know what the deal was on that one in the 1550, but I suspect it was just too thick.
 
Without touching the clutch pedal and driving along, the tractor will slowly slow down to a stop while stepping on the brakes. This is with the free play in the pedal. THEN with no free play the tractor pulls
like it should but then grinds trying to get it in gear. Hopefully this is clearer and makes sense.
 
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