1650 hydra power chain assembly

I am trying hard not to disagree with John and rrlund ( I think his name is Randy)as these guys have probably forgotten more than I will ever know about Oliver tractors, but I have to say I strongly believe a coupling chain is better/will last longer lubricated than dry. There are couple types of penetrant/lubricant on the Market specifically for dusty harsh environment's where Normal oil or grease would just pick up grit and wear chain faster. I just use aerosol graphite spray. I hold clutch down with right hand to get coupling down to a crawl so graphite has a chance to soak in instead of fly off. Trick is to try and get it into the pins and rollers. Its easier with a friend to hold clutch but I guess when you don't always agree you don't have too many friends around! I have always wondered why Oliver engineers didn't stick a cover on the chain coupling so it could run in grease, also why they didn't use a standard coupling chain with the center plates v/s the long roller with no center plates. I would have to think there would be a higher moment load on the original type chain? ( guess I don't always agree with engineers either!) Just for the heck of it I recently replaced a worn out chain on 1655 with a standard double roller chain with the center plates. So far ( touch wood) it seems to be working fine?
 
John and Randy is right on. My 1850 has the same chain on it for over 14000 (yes, 14000 hours) and has never been lubricated.Keep it dry
 
To each, his own. When I got my first 1850 48 years ago, the dealer told me to keep the chain lubed with WD 40. Your decision.
 
I lubricated my 1650 chain coupler when younger and stooopider. Quickly wore out the chain and both sprockets. Had to pull engine ahead, lift top off trans, spent a bunch of time and money. Have only changed one or two chains since and no more sprockets in 30 years I try to wash off any oil that leaks onto the chain from the 50 year old steering hoses.
 
I never lubed that chain in all the years (20+) that I owned a tractor that had the chain coupler. The main thing is use long cotter keys that reach through both pins to keep the pins from turning within the master link. If short cotter pins are used you will be walking home before to long, btdt. Dad used 4 short cotter pins ONE TIME on an 1855 diesel. Had to wait for things to cool down before I could reinstall the chain and cotter keys, wasn’t any fun on a 100 degree day laying on my back in plowed ground.
 

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