Cockshutt 30 issue

Wgamble89 · Aug 18, 2019

Hey everyone I'm new here and new to owning a tractor, been around them my entire life but just now getting my own. I picked up a 54 (I believe) Cockshutt 30, we picked away at it as it was seized when we got it, managed to get the engine freed up had to rebuild the exhaust manifold as is was Swiss cheese and un-sieze one of the valves. Got it to fire up almost instantly oddly enough after replacing the wiring and putting on some plug wires off my parts Subaru Outback. It was running and going into gear but didn't seem overly powerful. Hooked it up to our hay rake and it would barely move, engine ran fine but it seemed like the power just wasn't transfering past the engine. Just took it to the end of our back lane and it ran ok then when I went to go back up the lane it wouldn't make it up the incline (about a 25 degree slope). When I let it idle down and just about die out it seems to start to catch gear but rev it up and nothing. I've worked on motorcycles, cars, and trucks but tractors are a new world to me especially with high/low, pto, and belt drive I'm at a loss as to what the issue could be any help would be appreciated.

rrlund · Aug 18, 2019

"some plug wires off my parts Subaru Outback."

I think that might be your answer right there. Those are carbon core wires,you need steel or copper core wires. The owner of the old Oliver dealer here told me one time that he'd have tractors come in that would barely pull themselves through the door. A switch to a new set of steel core wires and they were good as new and that was all it took.

leroy in ne · Aug 18, 2019

Besides rrlund's advise on ignition being correct. It sounds like you have a fuel issue. 1. Make sure you have a good continuos flow from disconnected line at carb or if
it has drain on carb at that point. 2. no vacuum leaks, carb to intake manifold, manifold to head, or actual hole or crack in manifold especially where it connects to
exhaust manifold. You may try putting some choke to it varying the amount of application to see if it is possibly running lean (starving for fuel).

r.w.b. · Aug 18, 2019

Noticed another point you said it runs fine power
dont get to gears,is there free play at the
clutch pedal? Should be 1 inch.as well as bad
plug wires sounds like a slipping clutch too

P Heisey Harleysville,PA · Aug 18, 2019

ALL GOOD ADVISE POSTED. fuel, plug wires, sucking air, slipping clutch.......one or all these ailments.

We have parts....

Phil Heisey
215-256-8651

Wgamble89 · Aug 20, 2019

(quoted from post at 09:50:42 08/18/19) "some plug wires off my parts Subaru Outback."

I think that might be your answer right there. Those are carbon core wires,you need steel or copper core wires. The owner of the old Oliver dealer here told me one time that he'd have tractors come in that would barely pull themselves through the door. A switch to a new set of steel core wires and they were good as new and that was all it took.

They are copper core wires the issue doesn't seem to be in the engine it's idling fine, doesn't need choke, has good fuel flow, and revs up in a healthy manor. The PTO seems to spin fine is the thing just not getting the power to the tires, I was thinking it could possibly be the clutch system but wasn't sure if that would cause it to not move if it were wore or if it would just make it that you'd have to jump into gear.

I've started to clean out the gear oil should have started with that but it had been run the previous year in the woods by the ones I bought it from and I assumed they had been doing maintenance. The front and rear intermediate housings both had a lot of gunk in them. Not sure on the location of the fill plug yet and I still have to drain the transmission.

WadeBH · Aug 20, 2019

Suggestions for improvement on engine wiring may be correct, but the symptoms you describe point to a clutch problem.

rrlund · Aug 20, 2019

"Suggestions for improvement on engine wiring may be correct, but the symptoms you describe point to a clutch problem."

Agreed. The original post wasn't that clear. I don't deny the oil in the transmission and rear end have to be clean and free of moisture,but that's not where the clutch is and changing the oil won't change anything. The clutch is dry and runs up against the flywheel at the back of the engine.

Traditional Farmer · Aug 20, 2019

If the bell housing/tub frame had oil in it then probably the rear main seal on the motor is bad and the oil coming out the motor is making the clutch slip.

wilson ind · Aug 20, 2019

Make sure the creeper gear selector is in either one or the other position. The lever is on right
side near shift for belt pulley .

r.w.b. · Aug 27, 2019

NOTICE if you remove engine to fix clutch,or
slide it foreward in frame,under each side of
front engine support is some REAL IMPORTANT SHIMS
.DONT LOOSE THEM PUT EACH 1 BACK IN ITS ORIGINAL
PLACE

Cockshutt 30 issue

Wgamble89

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rrlund

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leroy in ne

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r.w.b.

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P Heisey Harleysville,PA

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Wgamble89

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WadeBH

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rrlund

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Traditional Farmer

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wilson ind

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r.w.b.

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