Pulling 1850 Oil Pan

3020G

Member
I was wrong about the location of where the oil leak on my 1850 is comming from. It appears to be leaking out of the crack. I have a good farm mechanic that can weld up the crack and fix it right but I will need to remove the oil pan to get it to where he can do it.

My plan is to epoxy it and see if it will atleast slow the leak down until sometime this fall when I can get it in a shop to work on it. Just looking at the tractor it appears I will have to pull the engine out of the tractor to remove the pan. Is this true? Would it be possible to do it without pulling the engine out?
 
I had a D19 Allis Chalmers that got a small hole knocked into the oil pan.I drained the oil out of the pan,cleaned it with starting fluid,hammered it up as best I could,cleaned it again.
Then put JB Weld all over the hole and tried to get some into the hole let it set for 24 hrs put oil back in the tractor and used it for over 20 years before selling it.
 
Maybe I ll have as good of luck as Traditional Farmer. Upon further investigation I m even more worried about this. I took a picture to send to the best welder I know. It appears somebody has tacked the oil drain plug to the pan. The only thing I can even think of is that they were worried it would come loose with the crack being in the threads?

I will attach a picture.

Does anyone know where I could find a good pan for this tractor?

If I could get the pan off without pulling the motor and I could find a good pan that d be the best bet. Does this pan get used in any other application or only the 1850?


mvphoto39692.jpg
 
The pan will come off with out removing the engine. You will need a pan gasket for an 1850 not just a gasket off a plain 354 engine as there are 3 different gaskets for 354 engines.
 
(quoted from post at 22:23:47 07/17/19) The pan will come off with out removing the engine. You will need a pan gasket for an 1850 not just a gasket off a plain 354 engine as there are 3 different gaskets for 354 engines.

Thank you for your reply. I will call my AGCO dealer in the morning. What is the best way to take the pan off without removing the engine? It looks like I can not get to the front bolts?
 
Looks like it was cracked from the plug being over tightened.Since the crack is in the hole if you take the plug out and scope the inside of the hole to see how deep the crack goes you might be able to get a long bushing with pipe threads to match the inside of the hole and next size down threads on the inside of the bushing to drain the oil in the future.
If that crack isn't too deep coat the bushing with something like JB Weld and screw it into the existing hole might stop the leak.The way I figure something like that is I give it my best shot at a quick fix if it works great,if not then I'm still only out a little time and effort.
 
It can be done. I had to buy a 3/8 drive flex breaker bar to make the turn to get the front bolts out the first time I took one off.
 
(quoted from post at 08:34:36 07/18/19) It can be done. I had to buy a 3/8 drive flex breaker bar to make the turn to get the front bolts out the first time I took one off.

I guess I don t know what kind of bar your referring to do you have a picture or a link to one? I assume your talking about going from under the middle of the pan?
 
Like this. Put a half inch socket on it. You need the angle to be able to get on those front bolts. It's a pretty tight fit in there.

cvphoto30045.png
 
(quoted from post at 09:33:17 07/18/19) Like this. Put a half inch socket on it. You need the angle to be able to get on those front bolts. It's a pretty tight fit in there.

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto30045.png">

Thank you, I was over complicating what you said.

How about reinstallation, how much of a bear is it to get the front bolts back in?
 
"How about reinstallation, how much of a bear is it to get the front bolts back in?"

I think I've wiped it from my memory like so many other bad experiences. LOL
 
Get some crowfoot sockets in 3/8" drive.i used
both types of crows feet 1 is cut to go over
lines to turn nuts on lines,they are best to
break bolts loose then the regular crow foot
slotted like open end wrench ,use extension
,breaker bar as shown on other post before
mine.take front bolts out first ,do worse part
first rest are easy.good luck,i had a 3 hour
fight then went to town n bought those
crowsfeet,i used em more than i thought too
 
many ways to fix that before pulling the pan, JB weld would be my first and I'd work the crack before forcing it in. If I was in the mood, remove the plug, bore and tap for a bushing, seal the bushing in...add a plug. Bushing becomes a structural part of the pan almost surely making it stronger. Whole thing will have to fall apart for it to fail.

A crack I wouldn't fix is one under pressure with greatly fluctuating temps...like a boiler...you can't stop that kind, but some do repaired by boring, tapping and plugging.
 

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