1750 Water pump fix

pcrh

Member
Hi:

The water pump on my 1750 leaks. Before I start I wanted to check my understanding of the procedure. I have taken the pump off the tractor and I am now ready to disassemble the pump.

According to the service manual the pulley needs to come off first. The question I have is how to get it off. I assume it is pressed on and therefor I need to pull it off. Do I put a bolt in the center and then use a puller?

Any information welcome.

Thanks
 


Yes it is press fit. Measure where the pulley was on the old shaft for correct placement on the new. Whether you're rebuilding or replacing, you will need to support the rear of the shaft when you press it back on, so you'll have to have the rear cover off. When pressing the pulley back on, we just lay a nut or something similar on back of the shaft so the force of the press is transferred through the shaft on to the press surface, and not on the pump's impeller/seals/shoulder, etc. It is a hard press.
 
I used to replace dozens of these same type of water pump kits back when I was a forklift mechanic.
A hydraulic press works good, but I got used to using a press powered by air and a foot valve.
 
? Sadly to say in the throwaway world that we live in it's more economical to buy a new pump than it is to purchase the parts and pay labor to press it apart and back together. ? As most know after my Oliver WFE time, I was an instructor for the company that makes green tractors with the yellow wheels. ? When a tractor or Combine was in for annual service at a certain hour level it was an automatic water pump replacement. ? In our high plains area when the original begins to leak it becomes very expensive, have to purchase new pump, mileage to tractor location and return to dealer, then tech's hourly rate. ? Korves Oliver stocks new water pumps, phone 618.939.6681, other suppliers that advertise in the HPOCA magazine have them also.
 
(quoted from post at 22:00:31 06/04/19) ? Sadly to say in the throwaway world that we live in it's more economical to buy a new pump than it is to purchase the parts and pay labor to press it apart and back together. ? As most know after my Oliver WFE time, I was an instructor for the company that makes green tractors with the yellow wheels. ? When a tractor or Combine was in for annual service at a certain hour level it was an automatic water pump replacement. ? In our high plains area when the original begins to leak it becomes very expensive, have to purchase new pump, mileage to tractor location and return to dealer, then tech's hourly rate. ? Korves Oliver stocks new water pumps, phone 618.939.6681, other suppliers that advertise in the HPOCA magazine have them also.

Yep. At roughly $100 for a pump, nowadays the toughest part of the job is pressing the pulley on/off.
 
I rebuilt my 1550 pump myself with a press from HF and parts from Kellog. Kellog will rebuild for you or sell you the parts. The hard part was getting the pulley off, just about the limit of the 12 ton press. Made the support from RR track plate.
cvphoto25389.jpg
 

Hi Mike:

I like your creativity.

Thanks for the picture. That helps me understand what I need to do. Do you still have the part numbers for the seal and bearing?
 
Mine is a 1550, not the same pump as far as I know but similar. I had the press loaded as much as I dared and was about to go for the torch when I gave the handle one more pull and POW when it let loose. Not hard to get off once it moves a bit. Measure it first as was stated earlier. I didn't (even though Herr Schweibert told me to) because my I&T manual gave the dimension. Well, it was wrong. Pump came off three more times till I got the pulleys lined up.
 
Go to their website, Kellog Automotive, Maricopa, Az.

P.S. I had access to a machine shop then and I made support sleeves for the internals. There were dimensions involved for the impeller and seal as I recall.
 
A bit of heat always helps, for both the pulley and the bearing. Without it, you can sometimes break the pulley. Load it up, heat it a little with the torch, and should pop within a few minutes.
 

Hi:

Many thanks for the comments and suggestions.

Yesterday I had some time and decided to tackle the back plate to see if it would come off. I was concerned that the screws would be seized. But they came off real easy and the gaskets came off without breaking. Looks like whoever had it off last used some anti seize on the screws and also put on some silicone sealant.

Should I plan on doing the same thing?

Going to meet with a buddy this week to see if we can press the pulley off.
 

On my new pump the cover had a paper gasket so I just lightly coated it with spray gasket when I put the cover back on. If you have no gasket, just make your own with a bead of your favorite rtv/permatex.
 

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