Re: Doubt I can get this BGS-H Cletrac running...

RBoots

Well-known Member
That really looks good, those pumps can
be very time consuming! Especially when
it is one you can't just go out and order
a reseal kit for!

Ross
 
Although I'm not familiar with that model
Cletrac at all, you're probably right,
you will probably have to at least split
the track and remove the final drive to
get the bearings out. Probably wouldn't
be a bad idea to do that anyway to find
out where all the rollers that fell out
ended up. Looks like when you get it back
together it needs to have the finals and
case filled with 75% diesel and 25% atf
for a little while of light use to help
flush all the junk down to the bottom,
that old grease drives me nuts. And it
sure stinks and stains. Keep up the good
work and keep us posted!

Ross
 
The machine has been run low on oil. The transmission diff and final drives are all together. The little pump at the back of the diff pumps the oil from the finals up to the transmission. From there it over flows to the diff then finals. But when low the finals go dry!! not good!! Split the track then take off the outer cover of the final drive. The sprocket and all will come out together. If the sprocket shaft bearing are good your lucky. Clean things up. Install the inner pinion bearing on the pinion then install the pinion. then replace the outer cover etc. Run a 3/4 fine threaded rod through the pinion, reach inside the diff and put a large washer and nut on it. Put the outer bearing in place with a nut and washer on the outside.
When bearing is in place remove rod install axle and cover. add oil to the transmission until it comes out of the level plugs at the rear of the finals. Use a 80-90 wt GL 1 gear oil.
 
Thanks for the reply gentlemen. I will get on splitting the track and taking off the outer cover of the final drive! Im sure that great big sprocket nut will not be easy to get off. Once it s off, does the sprocket just slide off?

Thanks for the help this far guys!
But the way how did this thread get separated from the original one I posted?
 
You do not have to remove the sprocket unless you need to change the seal. The sprocket is on a taper with two keys, needs a good puller to remove. The sprocket will come with the outer cover assembly. If you need to remove the sprocket later it can be pressed off.
 
Very good! Thank you for the updates. I
busted tracks for a long time by myself.
If you weld a piece of 1" round bar about
3' long on your pin punch you have there,
you can hold it on the pin and swing with
a sledge one handed, much easier. I had
an 8 lb sledge I used that had the handle
cut off to about 2'long so I could swing
it easier with one hand. Very rarely was
it that I had to have someone else come
help me or use a 2 hand swing on my 16 lb
sledge, and I did some big machines.
 
I just want a running useable small dozer to repair the road during the
rainy season and when the creek rises, I can pile dirt and build up
some sort of embankment.

My father in law used this machine to do these tasks 20 years ago,
then parked it because I?m finding out he ran the gear box out of oil,
destroying many bearings!

I hope this machine can do what I need, if I can get it up to
serviceable condition. It was given to me for free, but parts and gears
and bearings are not cheap!

Am I out of my mind here? LOL
 

I don't know if you're out of your mind; that's your call, ha. But if I was in the market for a small chore dozer, I'd be looking for a late model direct start Cat D2. While direct start is harder to find, parts (and parts machines) are a-plenty here in CA.


I have no idea why these threads are separated either.
 
Only you can decide if it?s worth it or not.i can tell you one thing,you will have to spend quite a bit to buy something newer/ less problem free
 
I'm following along closely on your
project, very interesting. A couple
things I may add, as long as that bull
gear is not missing more than roughly a
third of a tooth, it should be fine for
what you are using it for. You're not
going into full scale dirt work with it,
so it's not going to see the forces and
wear and tear it was originally used and
designed for. Another suggestion would be
to Google each bearing number. When you
do that, usually in the results will be a
website such as Yoyo part, which will
have all of the part number crosses for
each manufacturer. Verify the bearing
number to cross matches yours, and it
will have a list that will say direct
cross, which is what you're looking for.
The ones that say indirect cross won't do
you any good. Then I plug the cross
numbers into eBay, there is so many brand
new bearings that are old stock on there
that you can find almost anything you
want cheaper, sometimes way cheaper. I
use it because I only like to use US made
bearings, of which many of the old stock
bearings are. I'll make sure it's the
actual picture of the item, and that I
can see made in USA before I buy it. Also
look for ones with free shipping. I
bought a set of 2 new US made rear main
bearings for my F20, which are a ball
bearing about 5 inches across, normally
for the cheap foreign aftermarket ones
they get around $125 or $150. I got a set
of 2, only needed one, for $2, with $8
shipping! Those 2 bearings would have
cost me around $275 for no name bearings
had I bought them from a supplier. Not
every deal is as good as that, but on a
normally $100 bearing you can save $20-25
over normal price. It adds up when you
have 15 or 20 bearings to replace.
 
mopardude,

My back hurts just looking at that! Nice pictures and commentary. Obviously, you have little fear of mechanical things...

D.
 

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