BIGOL880

Member
What would cause the clutch discs to come complete out of the drum when you disengage the PTO? Its like the hole shaft is pulling out with them?
 
Yup,just did one. The set screw that holds the drum in,worked loose from the shaft. Look up that post from six weeks ago or so and there are pictures.
 
One more thought,there's a pin inside the transmission case that can shear and cause it too,I believe. You have to take the hydraulic cover off to get to that.
 
the drum seems to be moving around like its loose, but would that cause the shaft to move in and out or is it more likely the pin inside the tranny
 
If it's the set screw,it'll be the inner hub that the discs float on,that slides inside the drum. There's a notch in the splines that the set screw turns in to. If that's worked out,the hub will slide out of the drum and strip the outside notches off the discs. I've never had one of those pins shear,so I don't know what all slides if that breaks.

I take it you're just looking up through the inspection hole in the bottom and don't have it split then?
 
I don't know if you have it split yet,but these pictures should help. Take out the bolts where the blue tape is. There's a little cover underneath that has four quarter inch bolts in it that spans the gap between the engine and bell housing. Take the bolts out of the sockets for the stabilizer arms to the front axle.
Put some wood blocks between the front axle and frame.

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I have everything off the top. bell housing and steering dash assembly. I rebuilt the motor put the tractor back in together and figured i would adjust the clutch pack while the bell was off. I think i had the adjustment nut to tight for the clutch pack and I forced the handle to try to make it snap in. it did snap in but i had to pull really hard to pop it out and its like i pulled something apart when i did..i pulled it all apart and its like the drum is flipping around and the hole input shaft pulls out intill it hits the drive clutch and stops
 
On mine,the shaft wasn't moving,but the hub was sliding out of the drum. Hard to think that pin would shear by just trying to disengage the clutch,but I guess if it was already on its last leg...?.
 
Probably the pin in the coupler inside the rear end. Have to drain the hyd oil. The lift/trans cover is very heavy, use a hoist to remove it. It's a good idea to reseal the hydraulic reservoir while you have the cover off since you're essentially breaking the seal on 2/3 of it anyway when you loosen the bolts holding the lift housing off. If you drain the rear end and remove the 4 bolts securing the PTO shield and bearing support for the PTO stub shaft, you should be able to tell if it's the pin through the coupler. Once you get the 4 bolts out of that PTO stub shaft bearing support, pull or pry on the shaft a bit. If the shaft pulls right out the back with the bearing support, the pin inside is sheared off. It's a roll pin in there. I think it's supposed to be 1/4", but I drilled the hole in the shaft to one size over 5/16" so I could use a 5/16" bolt instead. I drilled the coupler side of the other shaft at just under 3/8" so that the slop in the splines wouldn't immediately shear off my bolt by working against it if both holes were too tight. Mine did just as yours did when my pin broke. PTO lever flopped down, all the PTO clutch guts spit out the front and hit the main clutch. Bent a few small pieces up on the PTO clutch I had to fix, wiped out a few of fiber discs as it was under load when it happened.

Ross
 

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