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1950 Oliver Row Crop 77 Clutch Issue

C

cmsmoke

New User
New to the forum. First post. I'm working on a 77 that has extensive free play in the clutch pedal travel. The adjustment screw was recessed into the nut on the clutch rod 3/8" and there was only about 1-1/2" of useable movement with 4"+ of freeplay. The flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disk look good, but the fork was hitting the pressure plate finger adjustment screws. Nothing looks bent. I have checked the distance from the crankshaft to the transmission by reinstalling the input shaft. I have installed a new clutch disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing with parts from Korves according to the tractor serial number. The issue is slightly worse with the new parts. I have adjusted the clutch fingers out towards the transmission so they are 2-1/16 away from the flywheel surface with the disk installed. This made up some space, but still not much useable pedal travel. The clutch does release just fine, but this condition isn't correct.
I know the clutch fork was on a hard angle, since it was rubbing the pressure plate, but why? Obviously the throwout bearing is too far away from the fingers.
Several things come to mind. Somehow could it have the wrong throwout bearing carrier sleeve, being too short? There is 1-1/16" from the shoulder for the bearing to where the flange contacts the fork. The fork doesn't seem bent. Moving it's pivot point in the bell housing toward the engine seems like it would help as well. Are the replacement parts correct? Surely I am not the only one with this issue, especially since new parts didn't correct anything.
I'm totally stumped on this one.
 
The is no cross shaft. It is the stamped steel fork or arm that has a ball type socket on the end that sits in the bell housing and has a cotter pin through the arm end and out through the bellhousing.
 
(quoted from post at 22:22:01 02/06/19) Has the flywheel been skimmed and now too thin? Used to be a particular problem with dual clutches, as I recall.
Click to expand...
That is a possibility I haven't ruled out, but I have 3/4" between the throw out bearing and the fingers. I don't believe that much could have been removed. There is also a part number stamped in the unused portion of the face. Does anyone have a thickness measurement of a flywheel they would share?
 
I think at this point,I'd call Clutch Dynamics in Lansing Michigan and see what they say. I take the clutch,pressure plate and flywheel to them and have them rebuild,resurface and set everything up,but they're always talking about "step" and a whole bunch of other things I don't understand.
There's no receptionist or anything,just the two guys who do all the work,so one of them will answer the phone. Nice guys,I'm sure they'd help you figure it out.
 
I knew there was an "improved pedal", but I don't know what it accomplishes. Possible explanation?
 
J. I can't see your e-mail address. Maybe you don't have always show e-mail checked in your profile? The PM link doesn't work either. I just enable my e-mail. Can you work from it?
Thanks,
 
I'm not exactly understanding what the basic problem is but on my 1550 gas I had to lengthen the clutch rod to make it release the clutch as it should.The clutch pedal would bottom
out and the clutch was not fully released.So I cut the rod in to two pieces at the threads and got a long connector nut and then screwed the two rod ends into the nut on each end.Gave
me the adjustment I needed and clutch works fine.Also put a lock nut on the threads.
 
(quoted from post at 17:27:12 02/07/19) I'm not exactly understanding what the basic problem is but on my 1550 gas I had to lengthen the clutch rod to make it release the clutch as it should.The clutch pedal would bottom
out and the clutch was not fully released.So I cut the rod in to two pieces at the threads and got a long connector nut and then screwed the two rod ends into the nut on each end.Gave
me the adjustment I needed and clutch works fine.Also put a lock nut on the threads.
Click to expand...
The problem with this tractor is the clutch release lever was already rubbing the pressure plate. Lengthening the rod will solve the excessive toe play, but would only make the rubbing worse. There is something wrong with the length of parts inside the bell housing. I have no idea what was changed, but it isn’t right.
 
(quoted from post at 19:34:38 02/07/19)
Do you have the clutch arm return spring in place? Usually when the clutch fork hits the fingers means you need to shorten the adjustment rod a little.
Click to expand...
The clutch spring is in place. All it does is return the pedal. The pedal just gets resistance from starting to touch the throw out bearing an inch to inch and a half off of the floor board. If I shorten the rod, it will be even closer and release will be reduced.
Click to expand...
 
Sounds like you have a wrong part in there somewhere,I have a couple 77 and a S77 torn down I'll see what I have and get some measurements if the fork and all is still with them.
 
(quoted from post at 06:30:13 02/08/19) Sounds like you have a wrong part in there somewhere,I have a couple 77 and a S77 torn down I'll see what I have and get some measurements if the fork and all is still with them.
Click to expand...
I agree. I can get photos of what I have, as well. I’m tearing it back down as we speak. That would be much appreciated!
 
Maybe I should ask this question to those of you that have 77’s: How much free or toe play do you have before you fell resistance and the clutch disengages?
 
This is what I have:
mvphoto31064.jpg


mvphoto31065.jpg

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The 77 doesn't have a step flywheel just flat,on something like an AC 185 the disk and the pressure plate set on different height surfaces so if the face is cut to get the groves out
the rim the pressure plate sits on has to be cut down the same amount.
 
(quoted from post at 09:54:37 02/08/19) The 77 doesn't have a step flywheel just flat,on something like an AC 185 the disk and the pressure plate set on different height surfaces so if the face is cut to get the groves out
the rim the pressure plate sits on has to be cut down the same amount.
Click to expand...
This one is flat.
 
The carrier the throwout bearing mounts to seams a little short. By the way make sure you put a little grease in that cavity
 
(quoted from post at 15:21:29 02/08/19) The carrier the throwout bearing mounts to seams a little short. By the way make sure you put a little grease in that cavity
Click to expand...
Do you have a dimension?
 
I’m in modern view. You e-mail isn’t enabled. Do you see how there is an e-mail block beside the profile block in my replies? That’s what you need to see in order to have it.
 
Go to your profile, down to settings, select yes to always show my e-mail address. That should take care of it.
 
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