1955 Engine Rebuild

Cash4Toys · Dec 28, 2018

Looking to find some opinions or what everyone is using for the 310T rebuild kits. I think I saw some Reliance and then not sure who is making them for White. Is cavitation an issue with the 310T? Liner bounce? Plans were to redo the bottom end, rods and mains, as I need to pull this one down and replace the rod bolts, still has the 6 point so I would have to believe it still has the 2 piece rod bushings. Thinking I should just replace the sleeves and pistons at the same time or?. Just turned over on the 4,000 hr. mark.

bison · Dec 28, 2018

Maibach in Ohio has everything you need.

I am rebuilding a 1955 310 at the moment,7000 hrs on it. It had also still the 2 piece wrist pin bushings and 6 point rod bolts which will be replaced with 1 piece bushings and 12 point bolts
Crank is ground .010 under. Valve and seats are ground.
camshaft looks good but need new bearings.
liners and pistons show no apreciable wear and go right back in with a hone and new rings. Oilpump looks good as well.
New injectors and a injection pump rebuild ought to top it off.
The turbo was rebuild a 1000 hrs ago.

LarryH · Dec 28, 2018

email me I can save you some money we rebuild olivsrs all the time

Cash4Toys · Dec 28, 2018

(quoted from post at 09:19:26 12/28/18) Looking to find some opinions or what everyone is using for the 310T rebuild kits. I think I saw some Reliance and then not sure who is making them for White. Is cavitation an issue with the 310T? Liner bounce? Plans were to redo the bottom end, rods and mains, as I need to pull this one down and replace the rod bolts, still has the 6 point so I would have to believe it still has the 2 piece rod bushings. Thinking I should just replace the sleeves and pistons at the same time or?. Just turned over on the 4,000 hr. mark.

Bison, just to clarify did you pull the liners and replace the O-rings seals or just leave them in the block?
Larry, I am new to this site, and I don't have your email.

bison · Dec 28, 2018

(quoted from post at 11:38:33 12/28/18)

(quoted from post at 09:19:26 12/28/18) Looking to find some opinions or what everyone is using for the 310T rebuild kits. I think I saw some Reliance and then not sure who is making them for White. Is cavitation an issue with the 310T? Liner bounce? Plans were to redo the bottom end, rods and mains, as I need to pull this one down and replace the rod bolts, still has the 6 point so I would have to believe it still has the 2 piece rod bushings. Thinking I should just replace the sleeves and pistons at the same time or?. Just turned over on the 4,000 hr. mark.

Click to expand...

Bison, just to clarify did you pull the liners and replace the O-rings seals or just leave them in the block?
Larry, I am new to this site, and I don't have your email.

pulled the liners, the 0 rings will be replaced.You should too. Cavitation can be an issue on some 310's , probably more on the ones that ran with old dirty coolant.

Mike(NEOhio) · Dec 28, 2018

I got a set of cylinder kits through Rick's Ag Parts for a Buda 230 gas. They were made by Thomas Ent. but they have since merged with another company to form Reliance and you can order directly from them now. I thought the quality was very good but I have less than 50 hours on it so I can't say how well they will hold up. Their main and rod bearings are F-M in a Reliance box.

krm · Dec 29, 2018

Just click on the e-mail link in bottom right hand corner in his reply.

Cash4Toys · Dec 29, 2018

(quoted from post at 08:43:29 12/29/18) Just click on the e-mail link in bottom right hand corner in his reply.

I tried that, not listed.
Does anyone know if there is a correlation of the tractor serial number to the engine serial number on the 18/1955's? Is there a casting date on the block?

Adam Suess · Jan 1, 2019

Do not use a reliance kit. The pistons are made wrong. The reliefs are too deep and your 20% + low on compression right off the bat. Gaskets are not very good either. They will not admit they have a problem. It's a big deal if you want it to cold start. The Arrow sleeve and piston kit is the best by far. More expensive but very worth it. I get them through Maibach tractor. Done right these engines will start un assisted below zero. Be very pickey and spare nothing when it comes to a 310 or you will pay twice later. Arrow Pistons , single piece pin bushings, agco gaskets, arp rod bolts flange head ferry bolts for head bolts and new valve seats set to the top end of the spec. Also make absolutely sure the sleeve protrusion is correct. I also send my harmonic balancers out to be rebuilt. Maibach was working on a improved head gasket. I haven't heard how that's working out yet.

Cash4Toys · Jan 1, 2019

(quoted from post at 13:42:27 01/01/19) Do not use a reliance kit. The pistons are made wrong. The reliefs are too deep and your 20% + low on compression right off the bat. Gaskets are not very good either. They will not admit they have a problem. It's a big deal if you want it to cold start. The Arrow sleeve and piston kit is the best by far. More expensive but very worth it. I get them through Maibach tractor. Done right these engines will start un assisted below zero. Be very pickey and spare nothing when it comes to a 310 or you will pay twice later. Arrow Pistons , single piece pin bushings, agco gaskets, arp rod bolts flange head ferry bolts for head bolts and new valve seats set to the top end of the spec. Also make absolutely sure the sleeve protrusion is correct. I also send my harmonic balancers out to be rebuilt. Maibach was working on a improved head gasket. I haven't heard how that's working out yet.

Adam, appreciate the comments. I kind of found that out as well, been doing a lot of research. Dealer can get the sleeves/piston kit for me, $42?.00 per hole. I did talk to Maibach on this as well, half of the price . I bought this in October, fixed all the hydraulic issues but left the PTO go until lately. Changed all the fluids so I could work it to see if anything serious showed up. Heavy ground here, and it pulled 5-16" at 8" deep in 4th direct, but backed off to 3rd direct/over. 18.4 x 38, full of fluid with a 440 + 150 on each side, 645 hanging on the front, and the front was light. Starts 28 degrees with no manifold heat, head does leak, no blow by. Starts "right now" hot, so pump is in pretty good shape, exception to the throttle shaft seals. Oil pressure is low, 25# at 2200 under load, 15# idle. 6 point rod bolts. Just irritates me to no end, that I need to pull it all down to get those darn wrist pins. End result is to strip to bare frame, replace the lines etc all the up.

Cash4Toys · Jan 1, 2019

The other thing I should mention is the oil pressure on this one is taken from the "very rear" oil port in the block oil galley. A lot of 1855, most in fact, were read from the filter base. Ops manual(s) shows this as well, 1855 were to have 35-50 psi, 1955 were to have 25-35. Not sure how many ever noticed this before.

NYOlivers · Jan 1, 2019

I have been trying to keep an eye on your post and the answers from the others the past few days. I am also going to be rebuilding a 310T from our 1950T probably next winter's project. I have been doing research on parts and info. Over the years there has been alot of posts on YT about this subject. Just have to sort through all the info and advice.
The 310 in my 1950T has oil in coolant and coolant in the oil. So I figure it has multiple problems. I just hope the crank is ok and I was not sure yet which brand of parts to use either. So thanks for asking about rebuilding a 310.

NYOlivers · Jan 1, 2019

Adam could you please email me when you have a chance? I have some more questions about rebuilding a 310. I have read some of your older posts on here about it. My Email is [email protected]
Thanks

bison · Jan 1, 2019

(quoted from post at 16:37:35 01/01/19)
The other thing I should mention is the oil pressure on this one is taken from the "very rear" oil port in the block oil galley. A lot of 1855, most in fact, were read from the filter base. Ops manual(s) shows this as well, 1855 were to have 35-50 psi, 1955 were to have 25-35. Not sure how many ever noticed this before.

/il pressure can be taken from any port in the main gallery incl the filterbase,..it should read the same across the board.

bison · Jan 1, 2019

(quoted from post at 16:17:33 01/01/19)

(quoted from post at 13:42:27 01/01/19) Do not use a reliance kit. The pistons are made wrong. The reliefs are too deep and your 20% + low on compression right off the bat. Gaskets are not very good either. They will not admit they have a problem. It's a big deal if you want it to cold start. The Arrow sleeve and piston kit is the best by far. More expensive but very worth it. I get them through Maibach tractor. Done right these engines will start un assisted below zero. Be very pickey and spare nothing when it comes to a 310 or you will pay twice later. Arrow Pistons , single piece pin bushings, agco gaskets, arp rod bolts flange head ferry bolts for head bolts and new valve seats set to the top end of the spec. Also make absolutely sure the sleeve protrusion is correct. I also send my harmonic balancers out to be rebuilt. Maibach was working on a improved head gasket. I haven't heard how that's working out yet.

Click to expand...

Low oil pressure is probably caused by worn rod/main/cam bearings and/or worn oil pump.

You say it started and ran good.
The 1855 I am rebuilding started and ran good too. I never figured the injectors where gonna be that bad when I pop tested them, all but one had a opening pressure under 1500 PSI and all had a bad spray pattern and none chattered on opening.5 outa the 6 had broken springs in them.
If the pump seals are leaking then you're better off to rebuild that pump as well while you're at it.

My engine had 40 PSI oil pressure at idle, yet upon teardown it showed the crank needed a grind.

1955 Engine Rebuild

Cash4Toys

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bison

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LarryH

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bison

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Mike(NEOhio)

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krm

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Adam Suess

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Cash4Toys

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NYOlivers

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bison

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