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What's the difference between a 1955 and 1955T?

B

bison

Well-known Member
I also have a PTO drive shaft out of my 1855 that for some reason was only engaged halfway in the hub in the flywheel and the part of the splines that where engaged are just about worn out on both shaft and in the hub.
I was thinking of welding the shaft splines back ups and machining the splines back in to fit a new hub. What do you guys think,..will it hold or will the shaft break at the splined end? A new shaft is close to a grand so I think it is worth trying to save the old one.
I will also extend the plug on the rear of the shaft 3/4 "to bring the shaft further into the hub so it engages all of the splined area this time .
 
All 1955's were turbocharged, where the "T" designation came from was the 1950 series as there was a 1950 with Detroit Diesel 4-53, and the 1950-T with the Waukesha 310 turbocharged. The 1755, 1855, and 1955 all take the same PTO drive shaft. There was a thread quite some time ago, maybe a couple years where they built up and re-cut the splines on the PTO driveshaft. The thing is that when (not if) it fails again it will be during use (baling, chopping, etc.) do you want to be down when you need it? It's more money up front now, but what would it cost you to loose 20 acres of hay that gets rained on because the tractor is down? When you do repair it, however you do it, heavily coat the splines with anti seize.
 
(quoted from post at 07:01:44 11/24/18) All 1955's were turbocharged, where the "T" designation came from was the 1950 series as there was a 1950 with Detroit Diesel 4-53, and the 1950-T with the Waukesha 310 turbocharged. The 1755, 1855, and 1955 all take the same PTO drive shaft. There was a thread quite some time ago, maybe a couple years where they built up and re-cut the splines on the PTO driveshaft. The thing is that when (not if) it fails again it will be during use (baling, chopping, etc.) do you want to be down when you need it? It's more money up front now, but what would it cost you to loose 20 acres of hay that gets rained on because the tractor is down? When you do repair it, however you do it, heavily coat the splines with anti seize.
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That still does not tell me what the difference between a 1955 and a 1955 T.
As for the shaft's perceived possibility of failing again during use,..I have a couple spare tractors to take its place when needed.
I just wonder how many did break after rebuilding it and how many are still happily turning the PTO.
 
I might have your question figured out. I went to A&I products to see what they wanted for the shaft and see that they show a 1955 and a 1955T. It is a typical internet mess up, there was no 1955T model in real life. One person (vendor), lies and 20 others swear to it. Eight years as a parts manager for an Oliver/White dealer that had sold Oliver from 1929 till they closed in '93.
 
(quoted from post at 14:57:18 11/24/18) The shaft from this site is less than $400.00 (plus shipping).
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priced it out.With the dollar exchange the gauging at the border and the shipping, by the time it gets here it'll be just over 800 Canadian....same price as the stealers here want.
 
You are correct. I checked parts book original p/n 163463A subs up to 30-3054527, might sub up again, would have to check with an AGCO dealer.
 
Can you just put a bolt in the end of the shaft before you put the plug in? That's if you build it up and cut new splines. I'd make sure you can get a socket and extension in there to get it out so you can get a threaded rod in there when you need to pull the shaft again.
 
(quoted from post at 07:09:03 11/25/18) Can you just put a bolt in the end of the shaft before you put the plug in? That's if you build it up and cut new splines. I'd make sure you can get a socket and extension in there to get it out so you can get a threaded rod in there when you need to pull the shaft again.
Click to expand...
Great idea rrlund.
Although I have a lathe and machining a longer plug won't be a problem.
 
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