1600 hydrulic pump

Don-Wi · Jul 1, 2012

My 1600 finally worked its way up to the top of the fix it list along with one of our chopper boxes, so I figure I'll ask a few questions before I dig in.

Is the anything I should look out for when pulling the unit? Do I pull the top cover off it, or just pull the whole thing right away?

I know I gotta pull the PTO shaft out so I can get the pump out.

Also, did the earlier models use a different pump than the late models, or do they all use the same pump? I thought someone mentioned the earlier models used a different one, and if that's the case, mine is an early 63 model so it's an early one. I know I already had that problem on the water pump once.

I still gotta order it, but I'm gonna do a little looking the next day or 2 and see what I can come up with, and who's got the best price/quality.

Any tips are welcome. I've helped my brother with the hydraulics a little bit on his 550, but that one was a little bit lighter and the 2 of us lifted it by hand. I already have the engine hoist back by the tractor for this one...

Donovan from Wisconsin

Brandon Cook · Jul 1, 2012

Just did the pump on my 1600. Pull the
top cover off as you said and use a
siphon to get every last bit of hydraulic oil
out that you can or you will have a mess
when you take off the unit. I then
removed the shifter plate this will give
you a place to put a hook im the front of
the unit. I then wrapped a chain around
the rockshaft hooked up an engine hoist
to all 3 chains and pulled the unit. Be
careful not to bend the pan between the
unit and rearend when she comes up.
You do not need to pull the pto shaft.
Most important make sure to clean
everything spotless before taking apart as
dirt will fall in your gear lube if you dont.
I then cleaned all hydraulic passages with
kerosene and compressed are and
changed ALL O-rings before putting it
back together. Terry at agpartsfirst.com
will be your best source for a pump. Let
me know if you need anything else.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 2, 2012

Don: It might be wise to replace the high pressure elbow between the 3 point lift cylinder and the safety valve. They tend to crack sometimes. Make sure it is a high pressure street ell. Also no O-rings on the 3 point cylinder. J.

larry from md. · Jul 2, 2012

Early pumps were differant ,but now you use a universial replacement.

rrlund · Jul 2, 2012

I took the one out of my 1600 parts tractor and used it in my 1850 a month ago. The dealer told me that one was the later pump that should have been in the 1850 anyway.
You don't HAVE to take that top valve body off to get the whole unit off,but if you do,for no more than it costs,I'd put all 12 of those o-rings (K2055)in those 6 tubes that come up from the bottom housing. Also,again as cheap as the parts are,get the 104 881A seal for the remote levers,one K2027 o-ring for the levers and a new friction disc for the 3 point lever. If the unit is off the tractor,you don't have to take the whole tube that holds the levers off the side of the housing,so you won't need that gasket,but you will need a new top cover gasket.
I'd second the A&I replacement pump from Ag Parts First. They're $380. Through Agco,they're $2200,at least that's what the parts gal told me. When I was there getting the o-rings,seals and gaskets,they were in the process of putting an A&I in one right then.

rrlund · Jul 2, 2012

A couple of other cautions on that when you take it apart. There are bolts all the way around that housing,but there are two down through the top too. One on either side of that rounded part between your legs fight behind the flow divider. 3/8ths bolts,probably 7 inches long or so.
Also,when you get all the bolts out and start to lift with your engine lift,take a large punch and a hammer,go the right rear and knock that dowel down,then go to the left front and do the same thing. You might have to put a little more pressure on it and do it a few times. If you don't,there's a real good chance half the pan will try to come up with the housing and the other half will try to stay on the tractor. It's makes for a whole lot cleaner shop floor if you can knock those dowels out of the top and leave the pan right on the tractor. It'll save a 30 some odd dollar gasket too.
I'd change that o-ring and rubber washer in the 3pt cylinder too while you're in there. Remember,those things are darned near 50 years old.

1600 hydrulic pump

Don-Wi

Well-known Member

Brandon Cook

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Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

larry from md.

Member

rrlund

Well-known Member

rrlund

Well-known Member

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