1800 - Removing pitman shaft and steering sector arm

Iowa Jim

Member
After talking with J. Schwiebert on the telephone I checked the steering sector arm on our 1800c and found that the pitman arm simply spins inside the steering sector arm. I read through the service manual and the I&T manual and still don't know how to remove them for inspection and replacement.

Can any of you give me some instructions on getting that fixed?

Jim
 
Drain and remove the radiator. I took the grill off to have more room to work. Unhook the 2 tie rod ends. Remove the 2 capscrews in the top of the steering unit and pry cap up and out. It has a o-ring on it so it comes out hard. Large bolt under cover raises the gear up when loosened, so when the bolt is loose, keep turning it till gear comes up and out. Push the shaft up from the bottom and then you can take the pitman arm out and replace. Put in new o-rings and MAKE SURE to find the timing marks on gear and sector when putting it back together. I got the new one from Franzen Family Tractor Parts, Monmouth, IA 563/673/6631 for $120 last May. There are 2 different types of splines used, so you need to get it apart before getting parts so you get the right one. Chris
Cropsandhoist6-08005.jpg
 
All true Chris,but you don't HAVE to take the gear off to get the shaft out. You can push the shaft and gear out from the bottom together. I never take the grill off either. That bugger's just too heavy.
 
I didn't say it was the right way to do, I said that's how I did it. It was setting under the hoist, so it wasn't that much extra to do. I can see pulling the shaft out the bottom, but not sure the gear would come out that way. If you take it out the bottom, don't you have to take the front end out from under the tractor? Chris
 
I'm not saying take it out the bottom. I'm saying push it up from the bottom and take it out the top. As long as what you are doing is changing the steering arm,all you have to do is take the bolt out of the arm down underneath,pull the radiator like you said,take that cap off the top of the unit and push the shaft and gear out the top,still connected together. The only reason the gear would have to come off would be if you were changing the shaft itself. I wasn't criticizing the way you did it,just trying to make it as easy for him as possible. Like a neighbor told me one time,you can learn a lot from a lazy man. He'll always show you the easiest way to do something.I'm all for that.
 
The key thing here for me is check the BOLT. I will need to look it up again since it has been many many years, but they like went to a grade 8 (or better) square headed bolt because the other original one would stretch causing the arm to be loose in the splines. If it rains I will look it up.
 
Is there one direction that that bolt will go in there but not the other way? I'm thinking the hole on one side is just ever so slightly larger for the shank of the bolt and the other side will only accomodate the threaded end.
 

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