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OT Automobile brakes

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William Fissell

12-27-2013 12:35:54




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Just did the front brakes on my Subaru Forester. How many of you do your own brakes versus trusting the local NTB/garage/etc?

just curious.




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Hobo,NC

12-30-2013 10:24:26




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to William Fissell, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
I have never used a on car lathe... Your are correct ...

They make shims to go behind the rotor to correct for run out tho I have never used them... If the hub is out that bad I replace the hub...

I have wanted a on car lathe only to turn captured rotors but there are not that many out there to justify one... I R&R the hub replace the rotor and turn it before I install it back on the car and never had a problem...

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TheOldHokie

12-30-2013 11:04:51




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to Hobo,NC, 12-30-2013 10:24:26  

Hobo,NC said: (quoted from post at 14:24:26 12/30/13) I have never used a on car lathe... Your are correct ...

They make shims to go behind the rotor to correct for run out tho I have never used them... If the hub is out that bad I replace the hub...

I have wanted a on car lathe only to turn captured rotors but there are not that many out there to justify one... I R&R the hub replace the rotor and turn it before I install it back on the car and never had a problem...


Not that I was doubting myself :roll: but I appreciate the confirmation. I did some research before i saw yoour post and here is an interesting read - it is a MS Word document so you will need an appropriate reader to view it.
Everything You Wanted to Know about OTC Brake Lathes

It appears to be somewhat dated as newer OTC lathes have "GI proof" computer assisted run-out compensation but it does explain the geometry involved. I watched a demo of a Hunter hub mounted lathe with electronic compensation and it really is fast. I haven't found a video of a caliper mounted "non-compensating" type in action yet but if you are a budding machinist the setup advantage should be obvious....

TOH
This post was edited by TheOldHokie at 12:25:09 12/30/13.

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Hobo,NC

01-03-2014 05:44:54




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to TheOldHokie, 12-30-2013 11:04:51  
This should fill in some of the gaps...

Link



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TheOldHokie

01-03-2014 06:20:29




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to Hobo,NC, 01-03-2014 05:44:54  
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

Good explanation. But don't you think his example of a hub that is exhibiting more than .004 runout needs more than a compensating cut on the brake rotor?

TOH



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Hobo,NC

01-03-2014 06:44:31




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to TheOldHokie, 01-03-2014 06:20:29  
Agree...
But Were do you draw the line... Not many are going to go the extra mile checking/correcting rotor run out unless it becomes a issue that can not be corrected thru normal processes ,,, unless it becomes a issue we get away with it...

If you run up on folks that are happy just hanging a set of pads and dead set on it they are not going to pay me to go the extra mile... There are plenty of shops that will hang'em let them deal with the issues...

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Hobo,NC

12-29-2013 13:50:39




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to John Schmincke, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
I "hung some pads" on the back of my '09 Subaru Forester last year

congratulations...



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SteveB(OH)

12-29-2013 14:01:18




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to Hobo,NC, 12-29-2013 13:50:39  
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Aw c'mon, lighten up.

Its not that big of a deal.

Happy Holidays and best regards.



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SteveB(OH)

12-29-2013 10:24:13




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to William Fissell, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
[quote:3b402d265b]

... I understand you can do it but don't understand why folks can be proud of what you don't know ...

[/quote:3b402d265b]

Why does everyone have to be so defensive (or maybe offensive) now days ?

Having a difference of opinion doesn't automatically mean ignorance, or being "proud of what you don't know".

It seems like it is getting increasingly difficult to have a civil discussion about anything in our world, because each party in the discussion has to have the only "right" answer, and therefore the other party must be ignorant, uneducated, and/or stupid.
This post was edited by SteveB(OH) at 10:25:39 12/29/13.

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Hobo,NC

12-29-2013 12:09:46




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to SteveB(OH), 12-29-2013 10:24:13  
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

Brakes may not seam important to some but they are to me... If you want to hang your own brakes go for it... Its not about who's right are wrong its about getting the correct information and you decide if you want to do a hack job...
When it comes to brakes theirs really only one right answer...

Their are times the Right answer is disputed it normally has something to do with money other than that there's no logic to their dispute...
For years GM has not recommended resurfacing a rotor,,,Hang a set of pads and ship it,,, Certainly they don't they do not want to pay warranty time to perform that step... Let it fester till it becomes a customer pay repair...
If you are happy to take your brake issues to a shop that advertizes $99 a axle brake jobs then you should be happy to suffer the issues that come along with it...

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SteveB(OH)

12-29-2013 12:50:19




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to Hobo,NC, 12-29-2013 12:09:46  
Hobo,

I think you have missed my point. My point is, why is it necessary to resort to name calling and insults just because I don't agree with you ?

Your quote "don't understand why folks can be proud of what you don't know" indicates that because I don't agree with you I therefore am uneducated, don't know that I'm uneducated, and worse, proud of the fact that I'm uneducated.

Is that really necessary to make your point ?

You write "When it comes to brakes theirs really only one right answer... "

I don't agree with that. There have been numbers thrown around like 0.001- 0.004 TIR, well, why not 0.0001 - 0.0004 TIR ?

Why not forget about turning and go to grinding, what about a temperature controlled clean room. What about surface finish, should we require 32RMS ?

In fact, there is a point of diminishing returns. Sure, we can recite tighter and tighter specifications, but at what point to they become meaningless ?

I "hung some pads" on the back of my '09 Subaru Forester last year. I don't believe that there is any measurable performance difference in my vehicles braking now vs when it was new, but I acknowledge that I could have had a team of 5 guys working a man month on the project if I wanted to.

The biggest issue is that mine is an opinion, and yours is an opinion, and they do not have to be mutually exclusive.

Above all, our 2 differing opinions do not need to result in name calling and insults.

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R Geiger

12-29-2013 09:54:44




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to john B. ne in, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
All of this why mine go to the dealer for brake work! I have been a mechanic all my life but I know what I can and cannot do and what tools I have or don't have. I don't always like the mark up on parts but they stand behind them so I think it is worth the cost.

Last month I had a leaky rear seal and the brakes were soaked. Bearing was going bad, then I find that the inner race is the axle shaft!! What can I say!!!!

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Hobo,NC

12-29-2013 09:14:30




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to William Fissell, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
Link

Link

I do not agree with #6 new out of the box and nailed to the hub I machine all captured rotors..

Link

Link

Every brake job I do gets a complete brake fluid system flush with a BG brake system flush machine... It has not been the long ago domestic's did not list brake fluid maintenance as a requirement in their scheduled maintenance but now they do...

Foreign cars did and it was highly recommended... It makes a big difference on peddle feel :wink: ...

This is a good one, All calipers I replace get a bench check with air to make sure they release properly... It not rare to go thru several rebuilt calipers to find a set that operates properly on the bench.... It time consuming and aggravating but it help insure again a come back....

Link[/url]

Link

Link

Link

I could post about this all day,,, there's a little more to this than knowing how to hang a set of pads... I understand you can do it but don't understand why folks can be proud of what you don't know and the reasons given...

O looked at youtube 1aa auto repair how to change yer front pads,,, that guy would not touch my brakes... I could not believe he grabbed a c-clamp and pushed the caliper pistons in and NOT trap are collect the old fluid. He forced the contaminate fluid back into the system and had no feel if the caliper piston was binding... :shock:

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jon

12-28-2013 13:25:27




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to William Fissell, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
I run a mail car & buy the cheapest pads (with Lifetime Warranty) that Autozone sells. I've had the higher priced ones & honestly can't tell a difference.
With an extra set in the back I'm always ready to replace & then swap out (no charge) for new the next time I'm in town.
Much easier than changing shoes on an N! :wink:

Santa just brought me a new Dewalt cordless impact wrench so it should go even faster & smoother now.

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TOM N MS

12-28-2013 04:17:06




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to William Fissell, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
I agree totally with replacing rotors when needed..Shops love to replace them too-they charge their cost plus whatever additional amount they so desire..then they lay down and sleep at night????? ????



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oldtanker

12-28-2013 03:35:45




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to William Fissell, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
I do my own and turn rotors as needed. I can get em turned for 15 a rotor.

Shops on the other hand stand to be sued if the job isn't done by the book and people are sue happy. Someone gets in a wreck and claims brake fade or failure the cops are going to look at the brakes and the specs. If they find that the rotors were too thin/scored the car owner and the insurance company are both apt to sue. Not saying that some shops are not gouging.

Rick

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john B. ne in

12-27-2013 23:12:30




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to William Fissell, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
Wheel bearings are another place the repair people like to overinflate the cost of repair. This past year I've replaced both front wheel bearings on my 2500 HD Silverato and one side of our Edie Bauer Explorer. After doing the first one I was surprised how easy it is. The bearings come with new rotors so I went ahead and added new pads while I had it apart. They also come with new abs sensors'. If I remember correctly, each side was around $150 for the complete part.

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Brian Jasper co. Ia

12-28-2013 21:47:49




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to john B. ne in, 12-27-2013 23:12:30  
I've never seen a wheel bearing come with a rotor. I've seen lots of them with new ABS sensors.
Wait till you get a rusty hub/bearing. Makes you learn new words...



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ScoutB

12-27-2013 20:34:19




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to William Fissell, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
I do my own brakes. My last 2 cars have had 4 wheel disc brakes and I gotta say I really don't miss the drums.



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Hobo,NC

12-27-2013 19:04:05




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to ray burrill, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  

William Fissell said: (quoted from post at 00:35:54 12/28/13) Just did the front brakes on my Subaru Forester. How many of you do your own brakes versus trusting the local NTB/garage/etc?

just curious.


If yer horn works you don't ne no fudgen brakes ,,, But if it don't you need'em....

If I inspected you brakes ( I know what I am doing you can bank on that) and recommend service beyond just hanging a set of pads (that I will not do) and you decline I will graciously install you wheels back on and torque the lug nuts and send your arse a pack'n...

Does anyone actually understand what a discard spec is,,, would you believe it has nuttin to do with the life of the rotor... :roll:
I have turned thousands of rotors I don't think I have ever see a perfect used rotor and few perfect new rotors... Its rare to find a rotor that is not at are near discard thickness anymore. The good thing is most rotors are inexpensive.

It is a interesting question to ask when very few here know how to properly hang a set of shoes on a N....
This post was edited by Hobo,NC at 19:08:27 12/27/13.

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ASEguy

12-28-2013 04:33:29




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to Hobo,NC, 12-27-2013 19:04:05  
People aren't the only ones that don't understand the discard spec. I have seen many mechanics that don't understand "machine to" or "discard". I've also met quite a lot that can't read or set up a drum mic. The owner of a local auto parts store gave me his drum mic. because he said "I don't know how to use the #$&%* thing."



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old

12-27-2013 17:11:45




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to William Fissell, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
I do my own. Figure why trust them to some one else when I can do them my self and cost me maybe 1/10 of what it would cost to have some one do it for me



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Bob Harvey

12-27-2013 16:23:13




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to William Fissell, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
Did my own for years. Now not so much. My son is a 'Mechanical technician' (mechanic), he, however lives a long way away, so I save up my problems 'til he visits !!



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TheOldHokie

12-27-2013 14:15:27




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to William Fissell, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

Brakes are probably the most over priced service you can get from a commercial repair shop. Modern disc brakes are extremely easy to service (rear disc parking brakes not withstanding) and I do my own. Modern vehicles with computer controlled ABS, electronic stability control, traction control, etc. need absolutely top notch braking surfaces to reliably do their job. For most vehicles the cost of new rotors is minimal so if they are not dead perfect I replace them. New rotors make the job a little more work but I have a lift and can put pads and rotors on most front axles for about $125 and an hour's labor.

TOH

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ASEguy

12-28-2013 04:37:35




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to TheOldHokie, 12-27-2013 14:15:27  
How do you determine if a rotor is dead perfect?



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TheOldHokie

12-28-2013 06:15:31




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to ASEguy, 12-28-2013 04:37:35  

ASEguy said: (quoted from post at 08:37:35 12/28/13) How do you determine if a rotor is dead perfect?


Is this a test ;-) Obvioulsy I don't mean "perfect" in a literal sense. I replace or resurface if:
  1. Visible cracking or damage to bolt holes
  2. Visible scoring or indications of overheating, corrosion, or checking
  3. It fails my very subjective "fingernail" surface finish test
  4. More than .002/.003 TIR measured on the car at the outer diamter of the friction surface
  5. More than .002/.003 variation in rotor friction surface or the thickness is less than the wear limit stamped on the rotor.
I'm guessing that is probably more demanding than most brake shops AND I know how to measure brakes and hub components both on and off the vehicle. I have two engine lathes but don't hassle with the setup needed to resurface a rotor with them unless a new one is too expensive. In general rotors are inexpensive ($35-$45 each) and usually get replaced with the pads because I seldom encounter a used rotor in anything even close to "perfect" condition.

Santa brought TOOH a new BMW 328i with Xdrive for Christmas and I won''t be touching the brakes on it until the 6yr/100K extended BMW warranty is up. Based on the maintenance schedule I was given their engineers suffer from OCD when it comes to brakes. Brake performance is essential to the operation of their hi-tech computer controlled Xdrive system and replacement of all pads and rotors as well as flush and refill of brake fluid is done on a regular scheduled basis regardless of wear. I must confess I learned why when I F'd up big time the very first time I drove it for real. I was leaving the dealership on a dark rainy night in a strange neighborhood and I missed my turn in rush hour traffic. As I was looking for a way to turn around an emergency vehicle surprised me at a traffic light. I had to make a 60 MPH panic stop when a fire engine entered the traffic light controlled intersection in front of me on red :oops: The Xdrive's fast bee-line straight stop on that wet slippery road was VERY impressive and far superior to any ordinary ABS system I have ever driven. The experience put a brown spot on my tightie-whities but made me an Xdrive believer.....

TOH
This post was edited by TheOldHokie at 11:25:08 12/28/13 5 times.

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ASEguy

12-29-2013 04:33:05




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to TheOldHokie, 12-28-2013 06:15:31  
A test? My no. :) You may be interested to know the out-of-parallel spec has been heading north for several years. It's not uncommon to see specs. in the ten thousands now. You may be surprised on the specs for your new BMW.



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TheOldHokie

12-29-2013 05:16:00




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to ASEguy, 12-29-2013 04:33:05  

ASEguy said: (quoted from post at 08:33:05 12/29/13) A test? My no. :) You may be interested to know the out-of-parallel spec has been heading north for several years. It's not uncommon to see specs. in the ten thousands now. You may be surprised on the specs for your new BMW.


Given just the little I know of BMW's Xdrive system I would only be surprised if the requirements were not much more demanding ;-)

So for disc brake systems "out of parallel" means what?

TOH
This post was edited by TheOldHokie at 05:26:54 12/29/13 2 times.

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ASEguy

12-29-2013 08:43:11




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to TheOldHokie, 12-29-2013 05:16:00  
Both frictional surfaces need to be parallel to each other at four positions around the surface of the rotor to avoid pad kickback and therefore pedal pulsation. I use 12, 3, 6 and 9. If the outside micrometer reads, for example, .999 at three spots and 1.000 at the last spot, then you are out of parallel .001. You could think of it as frictional surface variation going out not in. This is different from run-out because both sides can be parallel but warped due to improper torqueing of lug nuts or heat loading the rotor.

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TheOldHokie

12-29-2013 09:01:49




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to ASEguy, 12-29-2013 08:43:11  
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

I understand the geometry and the effect it has on brake pad contact. That is why I mentioned it. So why do you say "the out-of-parallel spec has been heading north for several years"???

TOH



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ASEguy

12-29-2013 16:42:35




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to TheOldHokie, 12-29-2013 09:01:49  
Older vehicles could absorb more deficiencies due to the vehicles brake systems being heavier. Lighter weight brake systems show the effects more easily and therefore the tighter tolerances. Manufacturers want to machine rotors on the car to reduce the runout and out-of-parallel even further by including the hub in the machining process.



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TheOldHokie

12-29-2013 18:04:16




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to ASEguy, 12-29-2013 16:42:35  

ASEguy said: (quoted from post at 20:42:35 12/29/13) Older vehicles could absorb more deficiencies due to the vehicles brake systems being heavier. Lighter weight brake systems show the effects more easily and therefore the tighter tolerances. Manufacturers want to machine rotors on the car to reduce the runout and out-of-parallel even further by including the hub in the machining process.


One might ask if it is better to replace a worn bearing/bent hub or machine the rotor out of square to compensate for it ;-) I would call that relaxing the tolerances while maintaining the final fit. And yes - you can compensate for poor quality or damaged/worn parts a lot easier with the latter.

This new BMW will be a real learning opportunity - the next newest vehicle I own is a 2004 Ram 1500 and it is not terribly demanding.....

TOH
This post was edited by TheOldHokie at 18:07:41 12/29/13.

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ASEguy

12-30-2013 03:41:59




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to TheOldHokie, 12-29-2013 18:04:16  
Worn bearings won't affect run-out or out of parallel, but will lead to vibration issues upon pedal application.
I saw very few hub related issues when I was a dealer mechanic. Most of the issues I saw were related to older vehicles and were either owner induced (curbing, going into a ditch, "ect") or technician induced (improper torqueing of lug nuts, hammering on a rotor with a 48 oz. ball pien hammer to remove the rotor, "ect". Industry has tried to take care of the latter with Tork Stiks and education. You can't teach some that 85 ft. lbs. applied equally around in a pattern is better than "Let er eat!" with an Ingersol 231. And that is just the tip of the iceberg. :) Have a good New Year.

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TheOldHokie

12-30-2013 05:05:33




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to ASEguy, 12-30-2013 03:41:59  

ASEguy said: (quoted from post at 07:41:59 12/30/13) Worn bearings won't affect run-out or out of parallel


Maybe I have spent too much tiime hanging around the home shop machinist forums and playing with my toys but that's not how I see it. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

Spindle bearings/runout are one of the first things to be inspected when purchasing any machine tool. And machine tool makers go to great expense to make sure spindle bearings are of the absolute highest precision because they are the reference geometry for everything else. If you start with a part with uniform thickness and face it on a machine with a worn/inaccurate spindle or bearing the spindle runout in your machine will produce a thickness variation in your part. The bearings are crucial to accurate operation of the machine.

A brake lathe mounted on a vehicle where the vehicle hub is acting as the machining spindle is no different. When you surface a brake rotor mounted on a worn bearing you may reduce or even eliminate the rotor runout as measured in situ on the vehicle. And by facing both sides of the rotor you can obtain a uniform rotor thickness. But in the process you have clobbered parallel and square on the rotor - turn that rotor 90 or 180 degrees on the hub and it will be out again.

This is why I mentioned measuring both on and off the vehicle. If you put a new rotor that you KNOW is perfectly flat, square, and parallel on a vehicle and you have excessive runout something is wrong. You can do one of two things.
  • You can strap a brake lathe on and "nail it dead on" with a couple cuts. You will have uniform rotor thickness and zero runout but your precisely machined square and parallel new part has been trashed,
  • Or you can investigate the problem, rectify the runout problem in the hub/bearing/spindle, and then if need be perhaps take a couple very light truing cuts to eliminate any residual runout that cannot be eliminated by other means.


TOH
This post was edited by TheOldHokie at 06:36:31 12/30/13 13 times.

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ASEguy

12-30-2013 06:41:29




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to TheOldHokie, 12-30-2013 05:05:33  
When you machine off the car obviously the bearings on the vehicle make no difference. When you machine on the car the hub and rotor are bolted to the lathe using lug-nuts therefore the lathe must have good bearings, but I wasn't referencing those. With an on the car lathe we could remove the hub/rotor assembly from the car, bolt them to the lathe, adjust run-out and machine them perfectly true regardless of the bearing condition of the vehicle. We use the Hunter OCL (On Car Lathe).

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TheOldHokie

12-30-2013 07:09:51




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to ASEguy, 12-30-2013 06:41:29  

ASEguy said: (quoted from post at 10:41:29 12/30/13) When you machine off the car obviously the bearings on the vehicle make no difference. When you machine on the car the hub and rotor are bolted to the lathe using lug-nuts therefore the lathe must have good bearings, but I wasn't referencing those. With an on the car lathe we could remove the hub/rotor assembly from the car, bolt them to the lathe, adjust run-out and machine them perfectly true regardless of the bearing condition of the vehicle. We use the Hunter OCL (On Car Lathe).


Perhaps I do not understand how on the car machining works. My understanding is that regardless of how the lathe is bolted to the hub - when used on the car the reference geometry for the cut is the rotation of the car hub and spindle not the spindle or bearings in the lathe. That is the whole purpose of on the car versus off the car machining. It negates tolerance stack-up and MINOR wear in the individually machined parts of the vehicle axle.

BUT it presumes the vehicle hub and bearings are in good condition and running straight and true and that the rotor is properly seated on the hub. And that is my point. Even if they are not you can still obtain near zero runout and uniform rotor thickness but the machined part - the rotor - will not be square or parallel when you are done. In that condition it can only be used in that exact position on that hub. That may be just fine in general but I think it makes it real easy to simply grab the lathe and "bolt it on and nail it dead" while missing or simply ignoring other issues that should be addressed first. We are trying to do it "right" are we not. :lol:
TOH
This post was edited by TheOldHokie at 07:47:09 12/30/13 5 times.

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notjustair

12-27-2013 13:26:12




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to William Fissell, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
I've done my own brakes since I was 13. I want to know what is in there. Those brake places gouge people because they think brakes need to be expensive because they are important.

A friend drove an old BMW. The shop wanted $700 to put brakes on it. I told him I would guarantee I could do it for less than $100. The parts were actually less than $50. I made him help me. He was shocked at how easy they are.

I find that the older I get the more I dread it just because of the trouble I have with moving tires. I will be burried in a pine box before I have someone else do a brake job for me, though.

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rossow (mn)

12-27-2013 13:23:07




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to William Fissell, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
I do my own pads and shoes when needed. I don't have rotors turned unless they've been pulsing.



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Walston

12-27-2013 13:08:59




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to William Fissell, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
I do my own. I have a lift in my shop and brakes are about as easy as it gets and you can save 75-85% of what the shops charge.



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redruff

12-27-2013 13:28:08




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to Walston, 12-27-2013 13:08:59  
And if I remember right, I think I looked at new rotors to buy and they were only about 35 aside for my tundra.
I don't know what they charge for turning, but a brake job with pads and rotors is probably less $50 aside...so $100 total...why even bother getting them turned?



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SteveB(OH)

12-27-2013 12:59:18




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to William Fissell, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
I do my own, and I have a pet peeve about the myth that rotors need to be turned. I view that as a money making scam by repair shops.

I'm 54 years old and like most people I started driving at 16. In all those years I turned (actually replaced) only a single set of rotors.

In my estimation the only reason to turn or replace rotors is when they are warped and cause a pulsing as a result. Maybe they would need turned if the driver kept running them after the pads wore out and really scored them badly, but even a little scoring is OK.

Many will state that rotors with groves wear down pads sooner, which is true, however, the cost of turning rotors greatly out weights the cost of reduced pad life.

Add to that the fact that in years gone by rotors were thick and could be turned many times, now they are very thin and most only have enough thickness for a single turning.

Recently I was in a tire store waiting for new tires and a lady was having her brakes done. The mechanic came out and explained that her rotors "didn't have enough life left" to be turned again, so she would have to have new ones. He quoted her an astronomical price for the brake job and she was crushed. I felt so bad for her. Most likely a $40.00 set of pads was all she needed, but how was she to know?

When I was in my 20's and money was tight I bought a used car in pretty rough shape. the passenger side front rotor was scored badly because somebody had let the pads go way too long. I discovered that the pads were symmetrical. I bought a box of 4 (a set) and just kept replacing the one pad on the side of the disk that was scored. I ran that way for years with no downside other than a dirty wheel from the brake dust and the constant maintenance of replacing that single pad. By the time I got rid of the car the disk was almost repaired :) :)

That was an extreme example because of limited funds, but you get the idea :)
This post was edited by SteveB(OH) at 13:02:15 12/27/13.

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Royse

12-27-2013 12:46:03




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to William Fissell, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
I do my own. Far less expensive.



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redruff

12-27-2013 12:55:18




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to Royse, 12-27-2013 12:46:03  
Did my own on Tundra and kids cavalier!

With the modern disc brake engineering it almost takes longer to get the tires off than replace the pads!

If its as easy as my truck your crazy to pay anyone to do pads.

YouTube has video for nearly everything!



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R Geiger

12-27-2013 12:45:29




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to Royse, 12-27-2013 12:35:54  
Replacing pads is one thing but did you have the rotors turned?

I use my local Ford dealer for most work. They have good people and I trust them.



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William Fissell

12-27-2013 13:26:35




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 Re: OT Automobile brakes in reply to R Geiger, 12-27-2013 12:45:29  
Did not turn rotors. They didn't look or feel bad.



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