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Save yourself future trouble and headlight bulbs. Run a ground from the headlight terminals (Don't use the ground pigtail in the headlight shell.) to the battery ground strap bolt on the instrument panel. Use the same size (AWG #14 or #16) wire (different color) as for the 12 volt side. Use a crimp/solder, ring terminal large enough to fit both ground wires into and with a 5/16" hole for the battery ground cable bolt. Use small pieces of duct tape to hold the wires in place on top of the lengthwise hood joint. Then dab RTV onto the wires next to the tape every six inches or so to hold them to the hood. The tape will eventually fall off, but the RTV is forever. While you have it off, clean the battery ground cable end, bolt and mating surface. Put the headlight ground lug on the bolt first, with the ground cable next to the tractor frame. If you want to get real fancy, put some in-line disconnects in the wires for hood removal. I didn't the first time, but I will when I have to remove the hood and cut the wires. Install the 12 volt and ground disconnects in reverse directions to prevent a light switch melt down or blown fuse(s). The life of lamp filaments is shortened by intermittent connections. The two corroded hood pivot bolts and five painted over/under/around instrument panel bolts DO NOT provide a good ground return path. This poor ground return will give you dim lights, and short bulb life. For a light switch, I suggest a standard/universal/three terminal/with integral fuse/three position light switch that is made for Off/Park/Head. Connect the headlights to the "Park" position. Connect the rear light to the "Head" position. If you use the rear light more than the front lights, reverse the hookup. You might have to enlarge the light switch mounting hole a bit with a round file. I hope this sheds light on your dark tractor. Happy midnight brushhogging. Elvy
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