3 pt Lift Knuckle Pin Removal

BLDFW

Member
The pins on my lift knuckles are rusted tight inside both sleeves on both knuckles. I've sprayed WD40 down in there but they're not breaking loose. Maybe WDD40 is not the best penetrating oil?

Any other suggestions on how I might get them to break free? One pin is pancaked already at the cotter pin end so that will have to be cut off and punched out.

Thoughts?

-Bill
Dallas, TX
1948 Ford 8N (built in '47)
Front mounted Dist, Converted to 12v
http://photobucket.com/Ford_8N
 
I use PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench whichever is closer in the shop. I've never thought of using WD40 as a penetrating oil.

When oil & a BFH fail, time for heat.
50 Tips
 
Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."

Quoted from Machinist Workshop magazine... "average load" is the load required to loosen a standardized rusty bolt.

Haven't tried this before, but wax is supposed to work good, too:

Bring the heat up to around 1'100 F with the torch up a point where the nut just starts a mild glow. Touch it with the candle and the wax instantly weeps and penetrates into all the small cracks and threading and provides excellent lubrication. Heat is your biggest friend for frozen fasteners. Pop it loose while hot. In a couple minutes the area will cool enough to touch.

...

The reason you candle wax is that good (higher quality) candles contain bee's wax. The bee's wax is a excellant pentrant at high temperatures. The heating of the bolt and the addition of bee's wax allows the bolt or fastner to be removed. Just to get it clear you melt the wax on and into the bolt or nut.

es
 
I went with what I had on hand....I did the 50/50 ATF/Acetone mix.

Now, I wish I could tell you if it was the mix or my brute strength but I managed to get the bolt to the change connector on the lower ride free. The pins through the knuckles are still holding tight but perhaps it needs some time. Anyway, I can get the cover off with some help.

When I get it back together, I may followup with the heat and bee's wax method just to get everything loosened up properly and then relubed.

Thanks guys!

-Bill
Dallas, TX
1948 Ford 8N (built in '47)
Front mounted Dist, Converted to 12v
http://photobucket.com/Ford_8N
 
Lots of heat and forget all the penetrating oil etc. Just heat everything red hot and let it cool to room temperature then maybe some diesel or WD40 etc and it should move like new.

Except for the one somebody has already ruined by swelling the end.

Zane
 

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