2N throttle control rod shape

wwalkersd · Feb 16, 2009

As I mentioned in this thread (link), in the process of replacing the manifold on "my" 2N, I broke the vertical rod that goes from the throttle control rod that runs along the top of the motor to the governor linkage. I got a replacement, but found that although I could attach it, the throttle would barely move the motor off idle. I concluded that either my replacement rod was too short (P/N 9N 9815 vs 9N 9815B), or that the governor needed rebuilding due to slop in the linkage.

Phew! So much for the background. Here's my question: on a '44 2N, what's the normal shape of the throttle control rod that runs along the top of the engine? On mine, the arm that comes off of it makes a 90 degree turn toward the front of the tractor about half way along its length (I wish I'd taken a picture). This also means that the vertical rod has to be bent a little bit to clear the manifold. So I'm wondering if that upper arm is really supposed to be completely straight. If it were, the vertical rod wouldn't need to be bent, and it would also provide greater travel.

If it is supposed to be straight, how can I straighten it without breaking it? Would the heat from a propane torch be enough to "soften" it?

Thanks in advance!

JMOR · Feb 16, 2009

I would say this is as close to right as you will find.

wwalkersd · Feb 16, 2009

Thanks, JMOR! So, it looks like the bend IS supposed to be there. But I do think that throttle linkage to governor rod looks longer than either of the two replacements I've purchased (one from local shop that I installed, one from nnalert that I haven't tried yet).

Could somebody with a working 2N please measure the length of that rod for me? I wasn't able to retrieve my broken original from the welding shop.

JMOR · Feb 16, 2009

(quoted from post at 16:34:22 02/16/09)
Thanks, JMOR! So, it looks like the bend IS supposed to be there. But I do think that throttle linkage to governor rod looks longer than either of the two replacements I've purchased (one from local shop that I installed, one from nnalert that I haven't tried yet).

Could somebody with a working 2N please measure the length of that rod for me? I wasn't able to retrieve my broken original from the welding shop.

n FO-4 it says, "hold the rod a point "A" (which is the arm you talk about, where rod to gov & gov comp spring attaches) and bend as needed for desired throttle movement". Now, I have never been perfectly clear on what was being bent in these instructions. I expect they intend for you to twist that rod running along the top of the engine, however, I don't know that, but if you call Don b @ nnalert where you got the rod, I put money on him being able to tell you & providing the rod length as well.....that is his tractor in the photo.

Let us all know what "bend" means, here.

GB in MT. · Feb 16, 2009

[b:33499d7b9c][i:33499d7b9c]

My 44 "N" throttle rod is 27 1/4" long, from the dash plate to the 90* bend. I'm of the impression, that the 90* bend arm, is what gets bent for the adj. of throttle linkage to gov. rod. Might be wrong, but mine has a downward and forward angle to it, which would seem to make the gov. rod have more travel, and still has room to clear the manny.

Hope this is correct. Mine works! :shock:

Gary & Hermie

[/i:33499d7b9c][/b:33499d7b9c]

Bob Harvey · Feb 16, 2009

Nice !! Is that a stainless exhaust pipe ??

HCooke · Feb 16, 2009

That's purty! You could do surgery on top of that head.

wwalkersd · Feb 16, 2009

(quoted from post at 16:07:11 02/16/09)

My 44 "N" throttle rod is 27 1/4" long, from the dash plate to the 90* bend. I'm of the impression, that the 90* bend arm, is what gets bent for the adj. of throttle linkage to gov. rod. Might be wrong, but mine has a downward and forward angle to it, which would seem to make the gov. rod have more travel, and still has room to clear the manny.

Thanks, Gary, but the length I was looking for was for the detachable rod that goes down to the governor from there.

My throttle rod also has a downward and forward bend (as does the one in the photo JMOR posted).

GB in MT. · Feb 16, 2009

[b:2d506139cf][i:2d506139cf]

WW;
I totally mis-understood what you needed. Sorry bout that. I'll post the length of that rod in the morning. I ought to be able to handle that.............ya think??? :lol:

Gary :roll: [/i:2d506139cf][/b:2d506139cf]

wwalkersd · Feb 16, 2009

(quoted from post at 20:26:00 02/16/09)
I'll post the length of that rod in the morning.

Thanks, Gary!

GB in MT. · Feb 17, 2009

(quoted from post at 22:03:50 02/16/09)

(quoted from post at 20:26:00 02/16/09)
I'll post the length of that rod in the morning.

Click to expand...

Thanks, Gary!

b:46b4a90d00][i:46b4a90d00]

WW;
Thanks for WHAT????? Oh yeh, now I remember!!!
THAT rod........10 7/8" long.

UHMMM......I cannot tell a lie.....I forgot this morning!!!

Gary :roll: [/i:46b4a90d00][/b:46b4a90d00]

wwalkersd · Feb 17, 2009

(quoted from post at 15:38:52 02/17/09)
WW;
Thanks for WHAT????? Oh yeh, now I remember!!!
THAT rod........10 7/8" long.

UHMMM......I cannot tell a lie.....I forgot this morning!!!

Gary :roll:

Um, which rod was that?

Yeah, I've got CRS, too. No worries. Thanks!

Well, that would seem to indicate that my new rod is the correct one. The old one had been brazed in a couple of places, so maybe it had been made longer. So either I have to bend the upper linkage arm (should I heat it?) as specified in the manual to try to get it to reach, or I've got a problem with the governor. As I said, it's only just before full throttle (at the wheel) that the revs finally start to rise. That seems like a lot of travel with no action.

JMOR · Feb 17, 2009

(quoted from post at 21:04:57 02/17/09)

(quoted from post at 15:38:52 02/17/09)
WW;
Thanks for WHAT????? Oh yeh, now I remember!!!
THAT rod........10 7/8" long.

UHMMM......I cannot tell a lie.....I forgot this morning!!!

Gary :roll:

Click to expand...

Um, which rod was that? Yeah, I've got CRS, too. No worries. Thanks!

Well, that would seem to indicate that my new rod is the correct one. The old one had been brazed in a couple of places, so maybe it had been made longer. So either I have to bend the upper linkage arm (should I heat it?) as specified in the manual to try to get it to reach, or I've got a problem with the governor. As I said, it's only just before full throttle (at the wheel) that the revs finally start to rise. That seems like a lot of travel with no action.

Sounds like the symptom resulting from a mis-adjusted spring on the governor arm. That actually sounds like a spring with slop/loseness in it. This spring has to have the end loops bent to adjust to a "just right" situation.....no pre-load or static tension AND no loseness which requires movement before take up. FO-4 describes this procedure.

wwalkersd · Feb 17, 2009

(quoted from post at 18:37:28 02/17/09)
Sounds like the symptom resulting from a mis-adjusted spring on the governor arm. That actually sounds like a spring with slop/loseness in it. This spring has to have the end loops bent to adjust to a "just right" situation.....no pre-load or static tension AND no loseness which requires movement before take up. FO-4 describes this procedure.

Thanks, JMOR, I'll give that a try tomorrow, too.

wwalkersd · Feb 18, 2009

Well, I couldn't do a thing with the governor spring, but bending the throttle linkage down did the trick. It's probably not quite giving full throttle, but it'll do for now. I had to bend the extension of the arm from probably 30 degrees up to 30 degrees down. Thanks, gents!

2N throttle control rod shape

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