2N Hydraulic Problem...

[color=darkblue:55e8a0473b]Removed side cover on my 2N because lift doesn't work... PTO is engaged and is working... Don"t see any fluid moving/leaking, but... If I push (pull) the fork, 9N-504, all the way in, so that the 9N-640 control valve is totally inserted into the pump (lift up position) and start the tractor, the control valve/fork immediately moves out of the pump body... I tried to pull it back into the pump by hand, but it is solid until I shut the tractor off... Is this normal?...

Thanx, DVD[/color:55e8a0473b]
 
(quoted from post at 20:26:29 09/14/08) [color=darkblue:56d8b2d988]Removed side cover on my 2N because lift doesn't work... PTO is engaged and is working... Don"t see any fluid moving/leaking, but... If I push (pull) the fork, 9N-504, all the way in, so that the 9N-640 control valve is totally inserted into the pump (lift up position) and start the tractor, the control valve/fork immediately moves out of the pump body... I tried to pull it back into the pump by hand, but it is solid until I shut the tractor off... Is this normal?...

Thanx, DVD[/color:56d8b2d988]

What is position of lift arms when it pushes valve back out?
 
When the control valve is pulled back as the pump begins to run it is being pulled back by the neutral pins/dowels in the linkage that the ram cylinder piston comes in contact with when the piston reached it's most extended point. It may be that the rocker on the rocker shaft has broken off the rocker shaft. I would pull the lift cover and see if that is the problem. If it is you will have to get into the wrestling mode and try to get the lift arms off and that difficult job of pushing the shaft out of the housing. If you do find it is broken you should put the lift housing back on the tractor and bolt it down so you have something to hold it down while you hammer away at it.

Or better if there is a place with a big press that can push out the shaft. The rocker arm bushings must come out with the shaft. The spline where the rocker is mounted is larger than the inside diameter of the bushings.

Zane
 

[color=darkblue:9dbcc7cee0]
Thanx Zane, not what I wanted to hear, but what I need to hear... Makes sense, there is no resistance when I lift the arms, I had slight resistance prior to the lift "rolling over and playing dead"... I've read that I need to "disconnect" the fork from the valve prior to pulling the lift cover so that I don't break something... Is that accomplished by spreading the fork from the control valve ears?... I won't go back up to the mountains until Friday, so I have a few days to prepare...

Thanx again, DVD...[/color:9dbcc7cee0]
 
(quoted from post at 22:46:31 09/14/08)
[color=darkblue:5a4dc0cc57]
Thanx Zane, not what I wanted to hear, but what I need to hear... Makes sense, there is no resistance when I lift the arms, I had slight resistance prior to the lift "rolling over and playing dead"... I've read that I need to "disconnect" the fork from the valve prior to pulling the lift cover so that I don't break something... Is that accomplished by spreading the fork from the control valve ears?... I won't go back up to the mountains until Friday, so I have a few days to prepare...

Thanx again, DVD...[/color:5a4dc0cc57]

Yes, Just spread the ear's.
 
(quoted from post at 02:45:47 09/15/08) When the control valve is pulled back as the pump begins to run it is being pulled back by the neutral pins/dowels in the linkage that the ram cylinder piston comes in contact with when the piston reached it's most extended point. It may be that the rocker on the rocker shaft has broken off the rocker shaft. I would pull the lift cover and see if that is the problem. If it is you will have to get into the wrestling mode and try to get the lift arms off and that difficult job of pushing the shaft out of the housing. If you do find it is broken you should put the lift housing back on the tractor and bolt it down so you have something to hold it down while you hammer away at it.

Or better if there is a place with a big press that can push out the shaft. The rocker arm bushings must come out with the shaft. The spline where the rocker is mounted is larger than the inside diameter of the bushings.

Zane

I would think you would b able to see if its broken with a mirror or at the least see that the lift piston does extend out of the lift cylinder,,, BTW swaped pumps on my 600,,, still can not bleed :!:
 
(quoted from post at 06:42:13 09/15/08)
I would think you would b able to see if its broken with a mirror or at the least see that the lift piston does extend out of the lift cylinder,,, BTW swaped pumps on my 600,,, still can not bleed :!:

[color=darkblue:19a02a65b5]Well, that would obviously be a lot easier than pulling the lift cover, but I'll probably have to pull it anyway... I'm at my wits end (short run) trying to figure this out... I was pulling a boxscraper, trying to build a road down a hill and the lift gave up the ghost... I only have weekends to work on the tractor and between the bugs and the dirt/dust, it ain't no fun... Woe is me, I'm going to eat some worms...

DVD[/color:19a02a65b5]
 
[color=darkblue:1cec20553a]Is it possible to disconnect the fork and hold the control valve in?... Will the valve stay in by itself, or does pressure want to push it out of the pump body?... Not interested in shortening my fingers, but I'm just thinking that if I was able to do this and the lift functioned, I'd a least know that the pump is operating and obviously, it would indicate if the rocker is intact without pulling the lift cover...

Thanx, DVD[/color:1cec20553a]
 
Zane, you're amazing!... My rocker arm is broken... Someone had broken it and welded it in the past... It actually broke again some time ago, evidenced by the crack being almost completely black, with only a small section silver... Just my luck...

Where's the best place/price to buy a new/used arm?... The original part number was 9N-545...

Thanx...

DVD
 
(quoted from post at 20:04:42 09/22/08) Zane, you're amazing!... My rocker arm is broken... Someone had broken it and welded it in the past... It actually broke again some time ago, evidenced by the crack being almost completely black, with only a small section silver... Just my luck...

Where's the best place/price to buy a new/used arm?... The original part number was 9N-545...

Thanx...

DVD

???

8N545B_sml.jpg


Hydraulic Lift Ram Arm - For 2N, 8N, 9N. This part will work for the 2N, 9N and early 8N but does not look like the original. This does look like the original for the Late 8N. For an early 9N, this part may require additional machining, such as grinding down the end raised portion, andor shortening one end 14 inch and adjusting with shims. (Part No: 8N545B) $80.00

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/store/...mp;md=2N&cat=Hydraulic System&r=mcats
 
???

8N545B_sml.jpg


Hydraulic Lift Ram Arm - For 2N, 8N, 9N. This part will work for the 2N, 9N and early 8N but does not look like the original. This does look like the original for the Late 8N. For an early 9N, this part may require additional machining, such as grinding down the end raised portion, andor shortening one end 14 inch and adjusting with shims. (Part No: 8N545B) $80.00

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/store/...mp;md=2N&cat=Hydraulic System&r=mcats

[color=darkblue:10e4dfa661]Thanx Dunk, I did see this ad, but the "machining" part scared me... The tractor is way up in the mountains and the only other machines up there are a washing machine, dishwasher and a margarita blender and they scare me, well, not the blender... I was kinda hoping for a "bolt-on" part... Has anyone machined a "late 8N" arm for a 1947 2N, and if you did, how much work was it?...

Thanx again...

DVD[/color:10e4dfa661]
 
Any chance you have a local tractor bone yard near where you spend your work week?
If so, it might be worth trying to get a new old part off another tractor. Might be less hastle in the end because the chances it would fit would be higher.
TooTall
 
(quoted from post at 11:20:26 09/24/08) Any chance you have a local tractor bone yard near where you spend your work week?
If so, it might be worth trying to get a new old part off another tractor. Might be less hastle in the end because the chances it would fit would be higher.
TooTall

[color=darkblue:841c5bb0c3]Thanx TT, I looked in the Yeller Pages and found one about 40 miles away, I'll call them...

DVD[/color:841c5bb0c3]
 

[color=darkblue:affac21336]Found an used lift arm!...

MyersWard Tractor in Wide-Spot-In-The-Road, CA (Riverdale) had one...

Now, to install it...

Thanx for all the replies...

DVD[/color:affac21336]
 

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