Ford 8N clutch replacement

How difficult is it to replace a clutch on a Ford 8N tractor. Often when I depress the clutch it does not disengage the drive and often I can't shift out of gear. Major safety issue I'd like to solve before running again. Any suggestions?

2-3 hour job if you have the right tools. Now if you don't have the right tools it is and can be a very hard job. You have to split the tractor, be able to hold both the front and rear end level. Also need the right tool to alien the clutch when you install the new one. For some one who has never done it before its a very big job

Replace the tranny input seal while you are in there..

If the tractor pulls right and works OK when it is not acting up you may want to try blocking the clutch petal down when you park it. The clutch disc has a problem with sticking to the flywheel due to rust. I have a #6 copper wire wrapped around my foot board that I slip over the petal and hold it down when parked. Other guys put blocks or something other heavy on it to hold it down. I have been doing this for 20 years since the problem first occurred. I have not had a problem since.

I've done it twice in the past year. Count on taking it apart one day and putting it back together the next. Another person to help goes a long way with lifting the hood off and aligning the engine when putting back together. Other than the tie rod ends and clutch alignment tool its all basic tools,I think you use almost three socket sizes exclusively. Buy your bearings and clutch kit ahead of time. You can buy the plastic alignment tool for a few bucks, makes life easier. Also buy yourself four long bolts and cut the heads off for aligning the engine and bell housing. I forget the size. really makes the job easy. If you take the front axle and wheels off the engine it really gets easy as the front wheels don't go every which way but loose. You could make wedges to keep it in place but the front end comes off pretty quick. You need lots of blocking, a good rolling jack, and maybe another bottle jack. Most importantly you need a good flat surface without cracks and bumps, nice flat concrete is best. Tons of info in the archives about the job. You want to find the bearing part numbers, and print out a section about which way the clutch faces. The pilot bearing is easy if you remove the flywheel and knock it out the back end. Use a socket close in size to the bearing and a hammer. Block of wood laid flat will get it back in. Its pretty much a lot of wrenching, nothing too technical, that why I could do it. Go for it.

Buy a couple of gallons of solvent to clean all the parts up.

Use a pilot bearing pulling tool to remove the pilot bearing. Then you don't need to remove the flywheel. Use the old pilot bearing to drive the new one in.

Most clutch kits come with a plastic clutch alignment tool.

Remove the steering box when you adjust the clutch so you can see exactly what the throwout bearing is doing and adjust it precisely. You'll need a tie-rod remover "pickle fork". While you have the steering box on the bench, it is a good time to clean it up and go through the adjustment procedure. I found that I was able to remove A LOT of lost motion from my steering box just by adjusting it. I had previously thought I'd have to replace the box, but it turned out there was no need to. Remember that the top of the box goes back on with the threaded ears toward the rear, and that the steering arms will go on the sector shafts only 4 ways, in 90-degree increments. Carefully note the locations of the steering arms before you remove them, and make sure you re-install the sector shafts so the steering arms will go back on in the same locations. If the steering arms are loose on the sector shafts, take the arms and shafts to a machine shop and have the splines cleaned up.

Removing the steering box will also let you turn the tranny input shaft by hand until its splines mate with those in the clutch disc, and to see exactly when they do. If you don't do this, it can be very difficult to get the input shaft to enter the disc without possibly damaging the disc.

I used two come-alongs attached to the rafters to remove the hood; one in the front and one in the back. This makes handling the hood really convenient. You can just lift the hood 'way up in the air and leave it there until you're ready to lower it; and when you do lower it, you can adjust the angle just right so it will slide over the instrument panel nicely.

Chase the threads on all the bolts and bolt holes before you replace them, and use anti-seize.

Take pictures as you go, and make notes of where all the different bolts go.

Threading the long bolts into the bell housing temporarily does make it easier to mate the transmission and engine, but remember that you still have to get the engine and tranny perfectly level and parallel side-to-side before they'll mate. You can swing the tranny from side to side by pushing on one rear wheel as you pull on the other.

The engine will want to tip over to the right side when you split it from the tranny. You will need to either wedge it upright, or attach a rope to something on the right side to pull and hold it upright.

If you clutch kit doesn't have the alignment tool, you can use the trans input shaft (it should be off when you replace the trans seal).

Hey ya left out one thang,,, goat head and buy some "new" drag link dust covers,,, Cuzz the 'pickle fork izz gonna fudge yer old ones up and damage the drag link ends

No pickle fork is needed to pop the drag link ends off,,, its rather simple 2 do no damage done no special tools needed,,, leave the pickle fork for the hackers 2 use

Removing the drag link from the Pittman arm. Loosen the nut on the drag link stud a few turns,,, install a pick, hatchet, wrench are a scrap piece of metal between the stud and transmission case,,, make sure its wedged tight, not take a big arse hammer and rap the Pittman arm were my finger is pointing,,, it make take a few blows,,, the drag link will pop loose, I do not recommend the use of a pickle fork whatsoever

Hobo said:

Hey ya left out one thang,,, goat head and buy some "new" drag link dust covers,,, Cuzz the 'pickle fork izz gonna fudge yer old ones up and damage the drag link ends

No pickle fork is needed to pop the drag link ends off,,, its rather simple 2 do no damage done no special tools needed,,, leave the pickle fork for the hackers 2 use

Removing the drag link from the Pittman arm. Loosen the nut on the drag link stud a few turns,,, install a pick, hatchet, wrench are a scrap piece of metal between the stud and transmission case,,, make sure its wedged tight, not take a big arse hammer and rap the Pittman arm were my finger is pointing,,, it make take a few blows,,, the drag link will pop loose, I do not recommend the use of a pickle fork whatsoever

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I would like to thank you for this post and picture. I was looking for a way to release the fittings and you saved me a lot of heartache. I do not know if you will see this but THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!! I bought a $1000 Ford 8N about three months ago split it last week, and started rebuilding the clutch today. Luckily ever tractor owner (and former tractor owner) I have talked to has been so helpful, and this project has gone so much better than I thought it would. I still have a little way to go but I have a lot more confidence than I did when I started. Thank you again!!

Bryan Lovett said:

How difficult is it to replace a clutch on a Ford 8N tractor. Often when I depress the clutch it does not disengage the drive and often I can't shift out of gear. Major safety issue I'd like to solve before running again. Any suggestions?

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I just did one last month, not a big job but it is a job. Mine was starting to slip, your's might just need adjusting to get it to fully release. How much play do you have in your peddle, should be no more than 3/4 inch. Too much play wont let the clutch release. The pin in the adjustment linkage might be worn, mine was almost half worn out.

Brad, you probably got fooled by the new “Similar Threads” the new forum format places after a current thread, the last response to this thread was in 2018. Keep an eye on the dates of the post you are responding to. You added good info which will always be there for anyone who views the topic later.

Bryan Lovett said:

How difficult is it to replace a clutch on a Ford 8N tractor. Often when I depress the clutch it does not disengage the drive and often I can't shift out of gear. Major safety issue I'd like to solve before running again. Any suggestions?

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Did you try adjusting the clutch pedal free travel as shown? When I had a worn clutch and pedal would stick down, I fabbed a return spring fix as temp band-aid. Use your Manuals to do this job. Splitting the tractor is in order.


Tim Daley (MI)

used red MN said:

Brad, you probably got fooled by the new “Similar Threads” the new forum format places after a current thread, the last response to this thread was in 2018. Keep an eye on the dates of the post you are responding to. You added good info which will always be there for anyone who views the topic later.

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Thanks Red, I missed that

Tim PloughNman Daley said:

Did you try adjusting the clutch pedal free travel as shown? When I had a worn clutch and pedal would stick down, I fabbed a return spring fix as temp band-aid. Use your Manuals to do this job. Splitting the tractor is in order.


Tim Daley (MI)

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You likely missed this. He may be around, but it looks like he hasn't been seen since July 20, 2008.

old said:

2-3 hour job if you have the right tools. Now if you don't have the right tools it is and can be a very hard job. You have to split the tractor, be able to hold both the front and rear end level. Also need the right tool to alien the clutch when you install the new one. For some one who has never done it before its a very big job

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Lets get real here. This is not a 2-3 hour job for most people and a novice more like 8-10 hours. I have done lots of mechanic work and I would say its a 6-8 hour job.

Abbby said:

Lets get real here. This is not a 2-3 hour job for most people and a novice more like 8-10 hours. I have done lots of mechanic work and I would say its a 6-8 hour job.

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My best guess for the benefit of doubt he meant 2-3 hours on this site looking for advice. He got me banded from this site for questing that statement and many more so remember you are playing with FIRE!.

On a 70 year old anything its not a lick it and stick it job one loaded with issues from age are man made that will offer a challenge. Clutch work is a entry level operation and as basic as it gets so don't let it skeer ya.

Okay, this is all somewhat good an applicable information. I am not perfect by any stretch of the imagination and posters here can do whatever they want. I clearly pointed out to BradCNY at 11:50P last night that he had likely accidentally replied to an old 2018 thread. (Yep I am not perfect it is actually a 2008 thread) Then Tim replied at 2:50am with his comments. (I will give him all the breaks in the world, he is dealing with some medical conditions, and being up that time of day may mean he is dealing with some affects of that) Here is the point of my reply, an it is irritating to me. Many folks here do not read other replies and just “plop” out what they have to say. As I said above all posters can do whatever they want. Just the fact that multiple “somewhat wasted” replies were placed here, yet as Jim.ME clearly pointed out at 7:51am the actual OP that all the information is actually being directed to is probably long gone.

EDIT:! Crow eater in the house! Now I see a new member, as of yesterday otter28169 actually revived the post. He is thanking Hobo for his July 18, 2008 post and picture and recommended method to remove the tapered stud of the drag link ball joint. People who do not read all the posts, self included, is still one of my pet peeves on this forum.

A

used red MN said:

Okay, this is all somewhat good an applicable information. I am not perfect by any stretch of the imagination and posters here can do whatever they want. I clearly pointed out to BradCNY at 11:50P last night that he had likely accidentally replied to an old 2018 thread. (Yep I am not perfect it is actually a 2008 thread) Then Tim replied at 2:50am with his comments. (I will give him all the breaks in the world, he is dealing with some medical conditions, and being up that time of day may mean he is dealing with some affects of that) Here is the point of my reply, an it is irritating to me. Many folks here do not read other replies and just “plop” out what they have to say. As I said above all posters can do whatever they want. Just the fact that multiple “somewhat wasted” replies were placed here, yet as Jim.ME clearly pointed out at 7:51am the actual OP that all the information is actually being directed to is probably long gone.

EDIT:! Crow eater in the house! Now I see a new member, as of yesterday otter28169 actually revived the post. He is thanking Hobo for his July 18, 2008 post and picture and recommended method to remove the tapered stud of the drag link ball joint. People who do not read all the posts, self included, is still one of my pet peeves on this forum.

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After I replied I realized what I had done I tried to message him directly and couldn't make it work.

otter28169 said:

A

After I replied I realized what I had done I tried to message him directly and couldn't make it work.

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Don't let it bother you its his problem not yours.