8n Distributor Points - replace or let be?

Thanks to your help my carburetor is now clean and in good shape. Next I am replacing my distributor cap since the old one has a cracked socket.

My question is, should I also go ahead and replace the condenser and point set? If so any special directions I should know? I already have the parts. The current ones look fine but being new to this I don't know what to look for. When I removed it there was a drop of oil suspended between the points.

What about lubrication? I have heard that the distributor needs to be well lubricated but don't know where or with what.

Also, I am replacing the spark plugs with Autolite 437. What should I gap them at and how much torque do I use to tighten them.

I'm new to this so I appreciate detailed directions. Thanks for you help.

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MF---your dist. looks like it was hardly used or someone redid it---bushing looks new as well as points. As long as you have it open, and you have the parts, you could replace condensor and points. Set them at .015.

I replaced points on my 49 8N 3 years ago and have not had to touch them since.

Otherwise you know the old saying (if it ain"t broke......)

Gap your Autolite 437"s at .025.

You may want to check the timing as well.


Tim

I'm with Tim, if it's not broke... Those tune up parts are expensive, so keep them on hand. After you've learned a little more about how the tractor runs, you can make the decision to do the tune-up. And you'll already have the parts!

Your points set should have come with a little capsule of moly grease. Spread that on the lobes of the distributor cam. If you don't have any grease, you can get a bottle for a few bucks at NAPA. Use just enough to lightly and evenly coat the cam.

Colin, MN

My bet is the cracked nipple is on the #2 plug wire, right? If so, you have another repair in the near future: replacing the king pin & bushing. You might want to do that soon before it cracks another cap.

Replacing the points & condenser depends on their condition. Look at the old points; are they burned, pitted or mis-aligned? If so, replace them. Look at how the points & condenser set in the distributor before you start pulling it down! If this is your first time doing it, draw a sketch! Be careful not to ground the tip of the condenser wire to the body of the distributor when you replace the points. Do not break the little copper strip that goes to the points. (If you do, make another out of the old set of points) Also, make sure the condenser wire does not go through the same opening in the distributor that the coil pig tail does. The condenser wire goes the opening on the top right. Check the point gap, .015 on all four lobes. Make sure you have the star washers under the screws on the points.

Next, with the distributor still off the tractor, install the coil. Look at the pigtail on the coil; is it touching the brass screw inside of the distributor? Don’t trust your eyes; test for continuity from the top of the coil to the points. If you do not have continuity, stretch the pigtail a bit until you do. (some people would rather put a small washer under the brass screw) Look at the little tab opposite of the pigtail; bend it a bit also to insure that it will contact the distributor cap. At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit (it helps to loosen the fan belt). The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil mis-aligned trying to put it back together one piece at a time & the result is something gets broken or you get a ‘no spark’ problem.

As to lubrication, look at the base of the distributor; it has a small hole to allow oil in the base. Make sure it's open. The shaft also has an oil wick in it to lubricate the upper bushing. It's probably dry, so check the bushing for wear. Lube the distributor cam like the other folks have suggested.
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Bruce,

You're right. It is the #2 nipple that is cracked. Thanks everyone for all your input.
Where can I find information on replacing the king pin & bushing? Also, what is a good source of additional information on setting the timing on a front mount distributor?

If you have not done so yet---buy the I&T Shop Repair Manual for starters. As budget permits, buy the N Parts Manual and the Operators Manual.
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8N'r WI posted the info on setting the timing below. The I&T FO4 manual has nearly all the info you heed about replacing the king pin. But, what it doesn't tell you is that the center axle & it's support must be removed from the tractor. Maybe 40 years ago you could get the king pin out w/ a slide hammer, but it ain't happening today. Get it off the tractor & take a BFH & a piece of pipe the size of the king pin and drive it out. PB Blaster helps. ITts just a PITA, but you really can't consider yourself to be a REAL N owner until you have passed this test!

Save the old pin & make yourself this high speed, low drag king pin removal tool. Operate at your own risk..........

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