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Is my timing bad?(it usually is)

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Stever(oh)

04-30-2000 05:10:30




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I just changed my points in a front mount 8n. It seems to run just a tad hotter than it did, and I am wondering if advancing the timing will help this. Which way does the rotor turn, as you look at the front of the tractor? Any other suggestions apprecitated (as always).




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Dave (Jubilee)

05-03-2000 16:43:00




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 Re: is my timing bad?(it usually is) in reply to Stever(oh), 04-30-2000 05:10:30  
If the overheating is minor or progressively gets hotter your timing could be a little fast, with it advanced to far the engine will fire with the piston still on the upstroke thus putting a load on the motor in effect working aginst it's self. Its been my experience that the wider you can gap the points and still start and run properly the better it will perform. To much advance on the timing can be bad (which is what you are doing by widening the points) a little is good to much is bad. Just have to play with it and find the best spot to set them. Start with Ford Spec. and go from there. Hope this helps. (Happy Trails).

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Jerry

05-01-2000 17:03:24




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 Re: is my timing bad?(it usually is) in reply to Stever(oh), 04-30-2000 05:10:30  
Hey Stever
Hope alls going well.When u say its running
a tad bit hotter what do u consider a tad.Im not trying to get smart but are u talking about 4 or 5 degrees or is it boiling over.If it is boiling it not because of your points.If its just a few degreese I would not worry.Take care-Jery



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Lynn (WA)

04-30-2000 16:48:18




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 Re: is my timing bad?(it usually is) in reply to Stever(oh), 04-30-2000 05:10:30  
I recently tuned and timed to spec. Its easy and done with the distributor out of the tractor. The front mount distributors are keyed and pop right off the front of the tractor. Its also real important to get in and clean and lube the centrifical advance parts. Check the springs and linkages for proper operation. Timing is for 0' TDC but this is for a static setting I think. Rotor turns CCW. Timing is set with a streight edge on the back side of the key flange. Aligned 1/4 inch from the top of the lower bolt hole; the lobe should be just opening the points. Recheck the timing again after its run for a while and make sure the rubbing block is lubed. AL@NC is quite correct, the diagrams and pictures in the shop manual make it real easy and I'm A fool for trying to discribe the process!

Good luck

Lynn (WA)

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Stever(oh)

04-30-2000 19:10:39




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 Re: Re: is my timing bad?(it usually is) in reply to Lynn (WA), 04-30-2000 16:48:18  
I certainly don't think you're a fool. I appreciate the attempt to explain it. I think there are too many answers on this board that tell somebody to go buy a book when somebody else already knows the answer. If everybody had every book, we wouldn't need this board at all. I salute you for taking the time to respond.



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Jay

04-30-2000 12:32:03




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 Re: is my timing bad?(it usually is) in reply to Stever(oh), 04-30-2000 05:10:30  
The rotor is driven off the front end of the cam and turns the same direction as the cam which is gear driven off the crank so the rotor turns opposite the crank. Stick your crank in the hole and see which way turns the engine. If your engine runs watch the belt pulley.

Jay



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AL@NC

04-30-2000 06:28:01




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 Re: is my timing bad?(it usually is) in reply to Stever(oh), 04-30-2000 05:10:30  
Get the I&T Shop manual # FO4 which covers the 9N, the 2N and the 8N. The timing is very easy to set with the BOOK and its diagrams. I wouldn't even attempt to try to describe it otherwise.



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