Installing 8N Hydraulic Pump

Chris623

Member
Had a motorcycle accident April 4th. I'm on the mend, but at my age, mending takes a lot longer than it did 50 to 60 years ago. I've got all the gaskets for this pump repair setting on my work bench. I'm getting mighty close to installing the pump to check and see if it works.

Do I need to put any kind of "liquid" gasket material (like from a tube) on the gasket before I install it?
 
Hi Chris623, glad to hear your getting better.
When I put the pump in my 2N I just used that red tacky spray. That helps hold the gasket in place but sure is a lot easier to clean the surfaces if you need to drop the pump again. Mine doesn't leak (from there).
 
I use PERMATEX High Tack Gasket Sealant stuff - note jar in pix. I advise to use your OEM Operator's Manual, the I&T FO-4 Service Manual, and your MPC to go by. There
is also a VG Service Manual for the early 8N's with a chapter on the hydraulic system. I wrote a document ten years ago on the 8N HYD rebuild procedure. If you want a
copy, email me and I'll send you one.


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FORD 8N TRACTOR SERVICE MANUAL:
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Tim Daley (MI)
 
I use Gasgacinch to stick the gasket to the part[the high tack stuff will work as well,but is messier],then a slight coat of grease to keep the gasket from
sticking to the block or other surface. If You don't and have to pull the part soon after assembly,get an
extra gasket.
 
(quoted from post at 08:27:07 06/09/23)


Wow, guys, thanks.

Tim, I'd like to accept your offer to send me an email with the procedure you mentioned but I can't for the life of me figure out how to email you.
 
'Tim, I'd like to accept your offer to send me an email with the procedure you mentioned but I can't for the life of me figure out how to email you.'

Switch to classic view. Scroll to bottom of Tim's post. Bottom right corner is a link 'send email' which will take you to the sites safe mail form.
 
Look in the lower RH corner of the thread. If you post your email addy in the box when you enter your name, it will show up as a link. Click on it and you get a form to
fill out and it gets sent to whomever. This is how YT ensures you don't get spammers scamming our addys. Once we shake hands, no need to go thru YT anymore. See if this
works. Scroll to bottom before PREVIEW YOUR REPLY and if you click on the EMAIL box, when you get sent a message, you will see a notice in your INBOX


Tim Daley (MI)
 

This has been a long process. I'm not healed completely from the motorcycle accident but am to the point I can walk with a cane.

I crawled under the tractor today hoping to re-install the pump. I jacked it up to the opening but it won't go in. I vaguely remember reading somewhere it has to be "tilted" one way or the other to get it in...............only I can't find that comment anywhere now and the pump won't go in. Sure wish the tractor were upside down..........think I could get it in that way, but I'm the one working upside down! :shock:

I wasn't able to follow the instructions from the previous post so don't have anything other than my 8N Shop manual and it mentions nothing about reinstall procedures. My email address is in my profile if anyone can help. This is where I'm sure missing my "old farmer friend" who passed away a little over a year ago. He could tear these old tractors apart and put them back together in his sleep.........God rest his soul. :D
 
(quoted from post at 15:53:10 07/20/23)
This has been a long process. I'm not healed completely from the motorcycle accident but am to the point I can walk with a cane.

I crawled under the tractor today hoping to re-install the pump. I jacked it up to the opening but it won't go in. I vaguely remember reading somewhere it has to be "tilted" one way or the other to get it in...............only I can't find that comment anywhere now and the pump won't go in. Sure wish the tractor were upside down..........think I could get it in that way, but I'm the one working upside down! :shock:

I wasn't able to follow the instructions from the previous post so don't have anything other than my 8N Shop manual and it mentions nothing about reinstall procedures. My email address is in my profile if anyone can help. This is where I'm sure missing my "old farmer friend" who passed away a little over a year ago. He could tear these old tractors apart and put them back together in his sleep.........God rest his soul. :D

glad to hear you're doing better.

here's one thread on the topic. i don't know if this is your issue or not.
 

Thanks for that, but that's not my problem. I didn't take the chambers off the pump. All I did was free up the intake control valve. It was stuck with some grit or something. I took the durned pump out and it's frustrating it won't go back in. I've got the right side inspection hole open and have tied the control arm back so it's not in the way. I'm not strong enough to lift the pump up into the tractor so have to use a jack. Hard to wiggle it around when it's on a jack.
 
Just another problem that has been found before....to be aware of, but hope you don't have.
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Luckily, I didn't have to remove the chambers so the dimensions are the same as when I removed the pump. I just didn't remember it having an issues with coming out, so I don't remember how it has to tilt to go back in. Wish I could find where I read that.
 
(quoted from post at 16:17:24 07/20/23)
Luckily, I didn't have to remove the chambers so the dimensions are the same as when I removed the pump. I just didn't remember it having an issues with coming out, so I don't remember how it has to tilt to go back in. Wish I could find where I read that.
ooking at the picture I posted about the PTO flanges/ears and this drawing, I hope you can follow the words.
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Since the flanges/ears and red part of pto must slide into pump front end, as I recall, I had to tilt it with front upward and rear downward, then slide forward until PTO assy is entering front of pump. Once far enough forward that valves on rear will clear hyd cavity opening, then you can finish by raising rear. Been awhile, but that is what I remember.
 

Thanks JMOR. I'm pretty worn out from the heat and the fact I'm so weak from this accident that I've given up for the day. But when I get home from Physical Therapy tomorrow I'll try and get back on it.

Remind me not to wreck my motorcycle in the future! I lost 15 pounds of muscle in the 5 weeks I spent in bed and in my recliner being totally inactive. Lost so much muscle I can't even climb a full flight of stairs yet! :cry: So I'm pretty weak.
 
(quoted from post at 06:12:44 06/10/23) Look in the lower RH corner of the thread. If you post your email addy in the box when you enter your name, it will show up as a link. Click on it and you get a form to
fill out and it gets sent to whomever. This is how YT ensures you don't get spammers scamming our addys. Once we shake hands, no need to go thru YT anymore. See if this
works. Scroll to bottom before PREVIEW YOUR REPLY and if you click on the EMAIL box, when you get sent a message, you will see a notice in your INBOX


Tim Daley (MI)
hat is the message I can see now when I click on reply, but not when I click on send email. I have tried several times to send an email, but there is no way I can find to confirm that it has been sent. I can't find any inbox other than the box to check for 'Email Notification'. Does the forum work better on chrome or edge than firefox?

Once the pump and lift cylinder parts arrive, I'll be in a similar, but barring accidents much more comfortable situation. That is a tough one.

As for sticky stuff, I have had good results with Permatex Form-A-Gasket No. 2 Sealant for a stiff, but not brittle sealer. It's pretty much a mix of rosin and castor oil with some alcohol to thin it. Having looked at the information on the Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant, it sounds functionally similar to #2, but newer, faster drying and quite possibly much improved for some applications. Might try it this time.

Rosin is soluble in alcohol, so the Form a gasket sealer is easy to clean off when the time comes to remove the gasket. The tech data sheet still says it is gasoline resistant, but the #$%^ alcohol laced stuff these days will leach out the rosin. No problem for the hydraulics, just forget it for the fuel system.

lha's grease suggestion is great. Old Corvair owners did that on the valve cover gasket, which saved replacing several gaskets before they finally got the lifters adjusted.

When you put the Yoke back on, coat the threads with anti seize. The Yoke won't have to be torched to get it off or adjust it next time.

This post was edited by Dave G9N on 07/22/2023 at 12:14 am.
 

I just pray I don't have to work behind these good old boys that goop these gaskets up with all kinds of goop and grease. :shock:
 

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