9N clutch pedal problems

Mad Farmer · Feb 9, 2022

1940 9N

It seems the bushing is wearing/worn out on the clutch pedal.

It's got to the point where the clutch pedal contacts the brake paul arm (parking brake) and the clutch pedal is hard to depress far enough to disengage the clutch. I adjusted the clutch linkage and that helped for a while. But now the clutch pedal pushes down the paul arm until the brakes begin to engage.

It seems it will be a PITA to replace the bushing on the shaft. What is involved to get the shaft out? Are bushings available? Do I have to get into the brake assy?

My other idea is to loosen the bolt on the paul arm, and rotate the paul arm a bit on the shaft. Not sure how easy that would be seeing they have been partners for 80 years. Maybe penetrating oil first, then heating with a torch.

I rarely use the parking brake but think it would still work with the paul arm rotated a bit.

Thoughts and/or suggestions on this?

This post was edited by Mad Farmer on 02/09/2022 at 01:11 pm.

duey · Feb 9, 2022

I know I did.... but you'll probably find the SHAFT is badly worn under the bushing, too... I built mine up with weld and made it round again..

16-30 oilpull · Feb 9, 2022

mine did that too. I made a flat U shaped bracket that bolts on the trans housing and comes up over the clutch pedal to keep it over out of the way.not
actually on pedal but the round arm

tractorguy2 · Feb 9, 2022

I took the shaft out of my 9n. Had the welding shop build it up and turn it back down to proper size. I bought a brake shaft bushing and had it installed in the
clutch petal.

Duner Wi · Feb 9, 2022

Here is a bracket I made for mine till I get around to fixing it proper.

Duner Wi · Feb 9, 2022

Here is a bracket I made for mine till I get around to fixing it proper.

Mad Farmer · Feb 12, 2022

(quoted from post at 16:56:51 02/09/22) I know I did.... but you'll probably find the SHAFT is badly worn under the bushing, too... I built mine up with weld and made it round again..

Thanks for replies. Been away from internet since I posted the ?

What does taking the shaft out entail?

Abbby · Feb 13, 2022

I believe the clutch pedal bushing is part# 9N7508 and the brake shaft bushing is 78-2477. You will need to remove the 5 or 6 axle retaining nuts and slide the axle assembly out.

Mad Farmer · Feb 14, 2022

(quoted from post at 13:56:28 02/13/22) I believe the clutch pedal bushing is part# 9N7508 and the brake shaft bushing is 78-2477. You will need to remove the 5 or 6 axle retaining nuts and slide the axle assembly out.

Not outside this winter!

Mad Farmer · May 19, 2023

Coming back to working on this. I got by winter but need to plow garden ASAP.

I figured out I could loosen the parking brake paul and rotate it on the shaft so it would not stop the clutch pedal from depressing. Clutch is working O.K. now.

Question now is clutch adjustment. I'd adjusted up almost as far as I could on the clutch release rod,so clutch would work this winter. I believe I'm tensioning the clutch release bearing springs at bit.

How much free play do I want on the pedal without feeling the spring tension? Just enough so I don't feel the spring?

Mad Farmer · May 24, 2023

Still having problems. I adjusted the parking brake pawl so it don't/won't stop the clutch pedal at all. Then made sure I had some play with adjustment on the rod, to be sure not riding on the release bearing or engaging the return springs.

I had to plow my small vegetable garden today. Clutch was still balky to disengage. Had to press it several times to be able to get it into gear and/or engage the PTO.

I got the plow on. I went to stop one time and could not get the clutch to disengage and the barn was coming up quick, had to turn the key off!!! I mean I was standing on the clutch pedal.

I let the plow down and got it back in neutral. I restarted and engaged the PTO with a bit of difficulty. I could feel the pump start to work/plow lift before I had let the pedal all the way up. It/clutch then released, then lifted the plow as normal when the clutch pedal was near where it should engage the clutch.

Several times when plowing I pressed the clutch pedal down but the clutch did not release, even when held WAY down. If I let the pedal back up and down I couple times I could get it to disengage.

What is going on here? The action of the pedal feels normal, but the clutch does not want to disengage. Sometimes it works fine. No noises from the clutch.

Any ideas? Help.

If I can't count on the clutch disengaging it's dangerous to keep using. I did get the garden plowed.

Mad Farmer · May 28, 2023

(quoted from post at 16:51:20 05/19/23)

Some more observations. I got garden plowed and harrowed, carefully.

When in neutral with PTO engaged I can hear pump running. Normally that stops when clutch is depressed. When it does not clutch did not disengage, and you can't shift into gear.

When this happens if I lower implement plow/harrow, release clutch with lift raised it begins to raise implement. If I depress the clutch then, and quickly release it, the clutch breaks free, and pump stops running with clutch pedal down. I can then shift into gear with clutch depressed.

Similar when running. I can depress clutch and tractor keeps going, if there is a load and I pump the clutch several times [b:a9de852bac][i:a9de852bac]sometimes[/i:a9de852bac] [/b:a9de852bac]the clutch disengages.

Someone has suggested spraying clutch/flywheel/friction disc with brake cleaner with clutch depressed. Only way I see I could do this is with starter out or through weep hole on bottom of bell housing. The cleaner is going to pizz back through the weep hole.

Am I going to have to split tractor to fix this?

This post was edited by Mad Farmer on 05/28/2023 at 05:53 am.

Jim L WA · May 28, 2023

Mad Farmer, I've been following this thread since you started it. You may have clutch shaft bushing problems, but have you considered that the clutch disk may be worn out?

Mad Farmer · Jun 3, 2023

(quoted from post at 08:55:47 05/28/23) Mad Farmer, I've been following this thread since you started it. You may have [b:7fcf6c91df]clutch shaft bushing problems[/b:7fcf6c91df], but have you considered that the clutch disk may be worn out?

Only thing I can figure out, for some reason friction disc is sticking to flywheel with clutch disengaged. By bushing, did you mean the one in end of crankshaft that pilots the transmission input shaft? Or the one on the pedal shaft I know is worn. I moved the brake pawl on the pedal shaft out of the way, so the pedal I'm sure is traveling plenty far enough to work the clutch. Clutch mech feels normal when pressing pedal down.

There is no noises from clutch/throw out bearing/transmission bearings. Clutch holds fine under load and never had slipping problems, pulls a 2-bottom plow as sits. Clutch feels fine when it's not stuck.

I've had cars/trucks with worn out clutch discs, slipping was the symptom, sometimes with noisey throw out bearing.

One time I had the fingers wear out on a diaphragm clutch and throw out bearing could not work that clutch, it made noises. Drove that one home without using clutch. Shift into neutral to stop. To start shut off motor, shift into 1st, then hit starter and car would start/get moving already in 1st gear.

I've not had to split a tractor, yet, but have done many old car/truck clutches. I was hoping not to have to split the 9N. I'd have to move to a friends that has a good garage w/cement floor.

I've got the TO20 tractor/wTO30 motor that I got last fall at my place now. Work on that stopped over the winter. Carb is all clean/rebuilt and have new sediment bowl assy. All I need to do is fabricate a fuel line (have Ni/copper line) and install those. That will be my tractor for the summer it seems. Was hoping to have both running.

TheOldHokie · Jun 3, 2023

(quoted from post at 08:44:51 06/03/23)

(quoted from post at 08:55:47 05/28/23) Mad Farmer, I've been following this thread since you started it. You may have [b:a098579f06]clutch shaft bushing problems[/b:a098579f06], but have you considered that the clutch disk may be worn out?

Click to expand...

Only thing I can figure out, for some reason friction disc is sticking to flywheel with clutch disengaged. By bushing, did you mean the one in end of crankshaft that pilots the transmission input shaft? Or the one on the pedal shaft I know is worn. I moved the brake pawl on the pedal shaft out of the way, so the pedal I'm sure is traveling plenty far enough to work the clutch. Clutch mech feels normal when pressing pedal down.

There is no noises from clutch/throw out bearing/transmission bearings. Clutch holds fine under load and never had slipping problems, pulls a 2-bottom plow as sits. Clutch feels fine when it's not stuck.

I've had cars/trucks with worn out clutch discs, slipping was the symptom, sometimes with noisey throw out bearing.

One time I had the fingers wear out on a diaphragm clutch and throw out bearing could not work that clutch, it made noises. Drove that one home without using clutch. Shift into neutral to stop. To start shut off motor, shift into 1st, then hit starter and car would start/get moving already in 1st gear.

I've not had to split a tractor, yet, but have done many old car/truck clutches. I was hoping not to have to split the 9N. I'd have to move to a friends that has a good garage w/cement floor.

I've got the TO20 tractor/wTO30 motor that I got last fall at my place now. Work on that stopped over the winter. Carb is all clean/rebuilt and have new sediment bowl assy. All I need to do is fabricate a fuel line (have Ni/copper line) and install those. That will be my tractor for the summer it seems. Was hoping to have both running.

The pin in the clutch release arm is known to shear and you get that problem. It can be hard to detect - have someone operate the clutch while you look close up at that joint.

TOH

Mad Farmer · Jun 3, 2023

(quoted from post at 06:10:51 06/03/23)

(quoted from post at 08:44:51 06/03/23)

(quoted from post at 08:55:47 05/28/23) Mad Farmer, I've been following this thread since you started it. You may have [b:0877fa2b4c]clutch shaft bushing problems[/b:0877fa2b4c], but have you considered that the clutch disk may be worn out?

Click to expand...

Thanks Old Hokie.

That is something I will check, and would be an easy fix.

You mean # 16 on this diagram, correct?

Click to expand...

TheOldHokie · Jun 3, 2023

(quoted from post at 10:09:30 06/03/23)

(quoted from post at 06:10:51 06/03/23)

(quoted from post at 08:44:51 06/03/23)

(quoted from post at 08:55:47 05/28/23) Mad Farmer, I've been following this thread since you started it. You may have [b:1ca932eeeb]clutch shaft bushing problems[/b:1ca932eeeb], but have you considered that the clutch disk may be worn out?

Click to expand...

Thanks Old Hokie.

That is something I will check, and would be an easy fix.

You mean # 16 on this diagram, correct?

Click to expand...

Yes - that arm can get caught on ground objects. Another less convenient one is the pin that holds the throw out fork to the rod. Bothbwere sheared on my tractor.....

TOH

Click to expand...

Mad Farmer · Jun 3, 2023

I'll have a look at the pin on the exterior. If it's the one inside on the arm that moves the bearing, I'll still need to split it to fix.

When those pins broke on yours, would the stubbs catch and clutch work once in a while? Or just no clutch?

Thanks for some hope! Have a good weekend.

TheOldHokie · Jun 4, 2023

(quoted from post at 11:32:47 06/03/23)
I'll have a look at the pin on the exterior. If it's the one inside on the arm that moves the bearing, I'll still need to split it to fix.

When those pins broke on yours, would the stubbs catch and clutch work once in a while? Or just no clutch?

Thanks for some hope! Have a good weekend.

The clutch would drag and I ran out of adjusting thread on the tie rod trying to tske up play. That was what lead me to look at the external pin. It was fractured and the arm would slip maybe 10 degrees then catch.

TOH

Mad Farmer · Jun 25, 2023

I had the luck to see the owner/mechanic of the old Ford tractor dealership at a Farmers market.

Asked him about my clutch problem. He said problem was rust on the disc/flywheel.

Suggested same as those have here, tie/hold pedal down when not in use. Sort of a bandaid measure.

Thanks to all who have helped/made suggestions

9N clutch pedal problems

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