1952 8N 12V Conversion Issues

Hello all,

I am struggling to understand what i am doing wrong or what part is faulty. I installed the 12V conversion kit with ease but I am having issues when I hook up the battery. I hook up the positive first (as suggested in the video on youtube, Titled: Ford 8N SIDE Distributor Twelve Volt Conversion, 1950-1952 Model Years, Easy How-To Video) but when I go to hook up the ground it arcs and begins to turn over. Key is off. Starter button worked as it should when it was on the 6v system through the winter. I don't understand what I have done wrong. I followed the video to a T. Please help

Nick

This post was edited by Nfosse on 03/15/2023 at 12:53 pm.

(quoted from post at 15:52:12 03/15/23) Hello all,

I am struggling to understand what i am doing wrong or what part is faulty. I installed the 12V conversion kit with ease but I am having issues when I hook up the battery. I hook up the positive first (as suggested in the video on youtube, Titled: Ford 8N SIDE Distributor Twelve Volt Conversion, 1950-1952 Model Years, Easy How-To Video) but when I go to hook up the ground it arcs and begins to turn over. Key is off. Starter button worked as it should when it was on the 6v system through the winter. I don't understand what I have done wrong. I followed the video to a T. Please help

Nick

This post was edited by Nfosse on 03/15/2023 at 12:53 pm.

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f wired the way Ford did it, the key has nothing to do with the starter, but the neutral safety switch does. Did you alter any connections around the starter solenoid?

The Deluxe kit I purchased from J&D Productions Inc. Came with a new solenoid, amp meter, On/Off Switch, Wiring harness, Alternator, Ground cable, positive cable and coil. All of which I used.

This post was edited by Nfosse on 03/15/2023 at 01:23 pm.

(quoted from post at 16:21:20 03/15/23) The Deluxe kit I purchased from J&D Productions Inc. Came with a new solenoid, amp meter, On/Off Switch, Wiring harness, Alternator, Ground cable, positive cable and coil. All of which I used.

This post was edited by Nfosse on 03/15/2023 at 01:23 pm.

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ssuming it is the correct solenoid for the application, then swap the large left and right terminals. Verify proper solenoid as in picture. Whichever large terminal makes it click is the one for battery cable .

Some interesting finds that may help... on the bottom of the solenoid is says 6-V... It also looks the EXACT same as the 6V Solenoid it replaced.

I thought maybe I had a stuck ignition button so I disconnected the wire to verify. With the positive and Negative terminals connected to the battery, it immediately turned over on its own just as before. BUT THE IGNITION BUTTON WASNT EVEN HOOKED UP. It was floating in the air.

Would you agree this is an issue with the solenoid?

duplicate post.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 03/15/2023 at 02:33 pm.

Did you try what JMOR posted to check the solenoid? What was the result? You say it worked before so you can try putting the old solenoid back on.

(quoted from post at 17:32:12 03/15/23)

Did you try what JMOR posted to check the solenoid? What was the result? You say it worked before so you can try putting the old solenoid back on.

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es on the old.

Likely when installing the solenoid the studs for battery cable and starter strap rotated while tightening the nuts rendering the solenoid contacts closed even when the plunger is not being pulled down. Sometimes the nuts holding the studs to the body of the starter relay (solenoid) aren't very tight on new ones.

Another vote for put the old one back.

I don't think you have a faulty part, more likely setup just wired incorrectly. No, you don't need a 12V starter motor nor a 12V Relay (Solenoid). Starter Motor
doesn't care if 6V or 12V. Connecting the battery should always be the last thing you do when wiring after verifying the entire wiring is done correctly. If you get a
spark/arc, you may have bumped your wrench to ground like the Starter Motor housing. First, with the wiring, you need an ALT belt tensioning bracket otherwise you will
never charge the battery. You need the OEM Manuals to fully understand your OEM system. 6V/POS GRN uses a GENERATOR with a VOLTAGE REGULATOR and both are removed when
going to 12V. On a 12V system, if using the original 6V coil, you also need to add an inline, external 1-OHM resistor in the coil circuit but swapping out to a 12V
verified coil will eliminate the need for an extra resistor. Lighting was always optional; and many were/are wired incorrectly. When switching to 12V be sure you swap
out the headlight lamps to 12V otherwise you will blow the 6V lamps when you power up lights. FYI: Lamps are industry standard p/n 4019 for 6V and 4419 for 12V.
Taillight bulb is # 63 for 6V and #67 for 12V.

OEM FORD 8N & 6V/POS GRN SETUP:


8N & UP STARTER MOTOR & RELAY:

8N w/12V CONVERSION & USNG OEM 6V COIL:
*NOTE: 12V SYSTEM WITH THE 6V COIL NEEDS AN EXTERNAL 1-OHM RESISTOR IN CIRCUIT.



Tim Daley(MI)

JMOR, that's about as plain & simple a test as I have ever seen! I've long admired your electrical schematics, but this pic borders on genius!

(quoted from post at 09:11:49 03/16/23) JMOR, that's about as plain & simple a test as I have ever seen! I've long admired your electrical schematics, but this pic borders on genius!

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hank you. It is good to make things as simple as possible

I had the exact same problem. Turns out my selonoid was shot. sometimes the two contact points inside it that are supposed to come together
when you hit the starter button get stuck together, causing an uninterrupted current into the starter whenever the battery is hooked up.
From what I was able to find, I don't think this is a hugely uncommon problem. I replaced it (the selonoid) and I haven't had any issues since! Anyways,
there's my two cents worth. Good luck!

(quoted from post at 13:21:20 03/15/23) The Deluxe kit I purchased from J&D Productions Inc. Came with a new solenoid, amp meter, On/Off Switch, Wiring harness, Alternator, Ground cable, positive cable and coil. All of which I used.

This post was edited by Nfosse on 03/15/2023 at 01:23 pm.

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For what its worth, I bought a conversion kit from J&D too. The solenoid they provided was DOA. I bought one from Napa and the conversion worked perfectly. Their diagram that shows how to connect the ampmeter is also wrong, its backwards. I hooked it up the way they show and as I suspected the meter read backwards, showing - when it it is actually charging fine.

Otherwise its a nice well put together kit.

Thank you to everyone for the out pouring of knowledge! I feel so blessed to have such a great community.

It was a bad brand new Solenoid that came with the kit. I put my old solenoid back on and everything immediately worked perfectly! I am back in business!

While doing the kit I replaced the original radiator with an aluminum one, new water pump, new spark plugs, new coolant hoses, new carb, new fuel tank, new fuel bulb, new fuel line, new intake to carb hoses, and new oil pressure gauge and line. She should be ready for the season!!

(quoted from post at 07:23:16 03/17/23) I had the exact same problem. Turns out my selonoid was shot. sometimes the two contact points inside it that are supposed to come together
when you hit the starter button get stuck together, causing an uninterrupted current into the starter whenever the battery is hooked up.
From what I was able to find, I don't think this is a hugely uncommon problem. I replaced it (the selonoid) and I haven't had any issues since! Anyways,
there's my two cents worth. Good luck!

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That's actually a common problem with older Ford vehicles when people keep trying to start with a low or dead battery. The contacts in the starter arc and weld together. Tough lesson to learn when Putting jumper cables on a vehicle that is in gear. I learned a lot of lessons from old timers that saved me from having to learn from experience.